Inside window trim

[dscribner]

Does anybody know where I can find window trim for my Lancer? I replaced the plexiglass last year but the PO had removed any real trim from the inside. He made a frame from 1/4" luan and screwed it in place over fabric. I removed these frames so I can see out but that leaves head liner and the raw edge of fiberglass showing. What I THINK I need is a very flexible "L" shape that I can adhere or screw into place. The trick is that the openings are rounded on the ends and corners, about a 2" radius. This would require the upright leg of the "L" to be on the outside of the curve. By nature, the "L" will open up when bent this way. (It closes up when bent the other way).

 

[Steve Dion]

You may want to see if Mark Plastics in Corona, California has something like this. They make replacement windows, so they may make the interior frames too.

http://sailmagazine.com/sail-buyers-guide/mark_plastics_go_marine_windows/

 

[BobM]

Try taco marine.

http://tacomarine.com/cat--Flexible-Vinyl-Trim--cat_flexible_vinyl_trim.html

 

[thereisabelle]

you've got my attention. let me ponder the wording so as not to be too long winded.will post a reply from a machinist point of veiw later today. jimbob

 

[John Howitt]

why can't you make new ones out of teak or a similar wood?
You have a template.

 

[thereisabelle]

by the picture i assume you have 4 portlights? 2 one size and shape, 2 different or 4 the same? trace a plywood pattern, jigsaw it out. now you have something you can use as a jig.when needed you can beat on it to ease the return of the angle back to flush or conform to the curve of each corner. the core between inside and out should be suitable for holding screws spaced as needed. useing the jig should allow for a long length of aluminum angle on a workbench. pre drill holes while the angle is staight. no need to countersink. #6 x 3/4 s.s.should be fine. once you have worked it all the way around with a little overlap dryfit with the actual window material. the shorter the return of the angle you choose the easier it will be to shape for a nice look. hope this helps. jb

 

[dscribner]

Thanks for all the input. I like the flexable trim best if I can find it, but to get just what I want is proving tough. I have an email to Hamilton Marine (Maine Company) looking for a price from Taco Metals (Thanks BobM) on a part that might do the trick.

The next thing would be similar to what John and Thereisabelle are both sort of saying. 1) Make 2 pairs of identical frames approximately 3/4" thick. Teak, UHMW, ash maybe.
2) route a groove around the outer edge.
3) use these frames as a template for routing thru the deck. The original openings were really rough.
4) adhere and seal the outer frame to the hull.
5) insert the plexi and seal to the hull and outer frame.
6) apply single sided foam tape to the inner frame and screw thru the hull into the outer frame in a minimum number of locations.

That's LOTS of work and best suited for the fall . . . late fall.

Thanks Guys

 

[thereisabelle]

the picture shows the interior.. can we see the outside trim? on the 73 irwin they used teak (4) pcs. to make the outside. this recessed in the opening about 1/8" when all assembeld it sandwiched the 3/16" plexi between it and an aluminum band screwd to the core. the exposed edge is not much more than a bead really... it would be nice to find a 10' peice or fexible molding that small. i'll keep an eye out in my travels.

 

[dscribner]

JB,

There is nuthin' out there. That's the problem. The PO screwed plexi to the hull, sandwiching butyl tape between them. As you can see, the tape dripped like a toddler's nose (too graphic?) SO, I removed them, and adhered tinted polycarbonate to the hull with structural glazing tape. Then I taped around the poly and added a smooth bead of white silicone. It looks pretty much like white vinyl trim right now. The Commodore liked it anyway. But on the inside . . . blah! I have been looking for flexible trim, just not having great luck. I am a designer by trade and nature, a accomplished woodworker in a previous life (military) so doing the work isn't the issue. It's doing the best that I can at the price that I can afford. Hence the the 35 year old trailerable!

Thanks for the consideration and the looking.

Don

 

[thereisabelle]

ayee what a handsome ship she be.. i see the drool but that part is fixed now? commodor signed off on it? the issue now is you both dislike the interior trim? and a metal or plastic frame is preffered. the strength and design play together in a sleek look and a reasonably strong unit outside. seems like even if you found a flexible material the sun would wear it down and the radius would be first to curl, crack or yellow. tell anyone i suggested this and i will deny it... window glaze? paintable, make your own bevel...jb

 

[thereisabelle]

the admiral and i are going to rooke sails today to look for stuff we can't live without...i'll ask about the trim there. accross the street is a window and door place. they build to fit and are very helpfull. i found a pic. and added it to my oweners photo album, well because i can't figure out how to add it to a post! yet... it shows the existing trim above our galley. jimbob

 

[thereisabelle]

didn't make it to rooke today but bought 2' peice of white plastic angle from home depot. 1/2"x1/2" cut your 2" radius and with the heat gun layed it on both inside and outside of 3/4" plywood. stapled each end and used a wallpaper roller to flatten the curl. roller wants to strech the plastic. good for inside, bad for outside radius. too much heat and the commodor wont like it. jb

 

[dscribner]

Thanks JB, I appreciate the help. I tried something similar and got similar results. I'll probably rig something that look . . . OK, then make this my winter/early spring project. I'll make the frames and replace the plexi. That way the cutout on each side will be identical, not hacked out with a jig saw. I did take a belt sander to the edges to make it look better, but better than what?

Oh, and I wonder if those electricians used thoe 9V phones because of interference with walkie-talkies.

Thanks again!

Don

 

[thereisabelle]

arrgh! mate you have spoke with the natives i see.... this machine the elec. were working on produced finished electrical connectors. it machined the threads on the raw castings at an alarming rate. one guy would sit on his work bucket and lable wires while the other one was at the controle boxes. 4 stations i think. another thing about the heads that were doing the cutting, i ask how does the head stop so fast and reverse? his reply was they use 12v. for the break! whew! over my head. over and out. jb