Insert For Pearson 28-2 Head Deck and Question

[JimLor]

My wife and I bought a 1986 Pearson 28-2 this Sep. We are going to keep it in Deale, MD once we get her off the hardstands this coming March. I'm using this time to do some maintenance (such as installing new ports-holy crap) and would like to know if anyone has built or bought inserts for both the head and stern cabin "floors" to make the surface level. I understand that any decking that raises the level will also reduce headroom, but I'm willing to trade a bit of headroom for a level floor.

For what it's worth, I've made several Adorondak (sp?) chairs out of Eucalyptus; much cheaper than teak and it does seem to hold up well outdoors.

The question: The shower sump switch is in the head and the water pressure switch must also be on (main panel), the pump is located aft of the engine. I guess the question is more to the point is my assumtiion correct - my assumption is that the "sump" is located under the shower drain and the pump pumps the gray water overboard on the starboard side? If so, which thru ports does it pump thru?

Thanks for any answers or suggestions. And if anyone is interested in my story of pulling the two forward "deadlight" and the two "combination" ports out of the boat just let me know.

Jim

 

[Barnacle Bill]

The sump pump is probably not submerged, but a hose feeds to the drain in the sump that goes to the pump and then out the boat. Can you not follow the hose to see where the shower water ships overboard?

 

[gundaddy]

Would like to hear your story of pulling the two forward "deadlight" and the two "combination" ports out of the boat. I think it's in my future.

 

[JimLor]

Removing Ports

A day that will live in infamy. We bought the boat in Sep knowing the ports leaked as evidenced by "tears" running down the teak trim into the sink and other parts of the boat. I figured we could wait a bit until I opened the boat one day and there was water (small amount) in the bilge coming from under the galley trip port side.

So, last weekend armed with paint scrappers and an undeducated optimism, we started on the combination port on the port side. First off I removed the outside trim ring - actually not too bad. Work the scrapper between the boat and trim ring thru the sealant to free the ring. Next step is to clear the sealant from the screw/bolt heads and have your lovely wife put a socket on the boltheads (inside) and remove the bolts. Not so bad on the portside ports. Then we had to pry the port frame out of the boat - portside wasn't too bad, however the starboard side was a true pain. Seems that on the starboard side the frames were "glued" onto the teak plywood interior and while we did eventually free them, it wan't fun. Also on the starboard side the thickness of sealant under the trim ring seemed to imply that the philosophy was used that if a little sealant is good, then a damn boatload of sealant is better!

I emailed photos of the removed ports to a company in Conn and was politely informed that these ports are not rebuildable - the non-opening lights are chemically welded and can't be removed. Great. I did find that they were manufactured by Beckson and I sent them an email. I got a prompt and detailed reply from Matt ( 203-333-1412) and I also called and talked with him for quite a while.

To reinstall the ports - put the frames in temporarily so you can see if the space around the frame is even. Mine is/are not. In fact on several there is a large space on one side and it hits the boat on the other. In that case, take a file and file the tight spaces to make room for the sealant otherwise it invites leaks.

I should have started with the teak plywood/boat joint. In mine they are not connected/sealed. I will put some epoxy between them and clamp to form a solid base (bottom) of the port cutout.

The website price for the ports is (I think) $460 for the combo port (pair) and $305 for the forward deadlight (pair). Matt gave me prices of $205 and $275 (each for a pair) and I went ahead and bought the new replacements. I also bought lenses, gaskets, screens, and cam levers to replace the knobs on the remaining 3 opening ports in the head and aft cabin (they aren't leaking and I'm not removing them!).

I'm headed to the boat on Friday and will be happy to take some pictures of the empty ports to show you what I'm talking about in regards to the boat/teak junction.

Another note from Matt, he says they may have used an adhesive on these and I'm pretty sure he's right. He recommends silicone (dow 795) by itself to bed/seal/seat the new ports.

Gotta run but I'll post some photos on Friday.

 

[jsl3]

Re: Removing Ports

Hi Jim,
Great choice on your boat, I own one as well.
I don't have an specific answers to your questions other than to point you in the direction of the Pearson 28 group at Yahoo. (if you don't already know about it)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/p28forum/
There is a ton of info on the Pearson 28 in the archives and questions get answered quickly. I also know there is a lot of specific info on the portlights.

I keep my boat on the Rhode River not too far to you.

-Jim
Ramble On
P28-2 #186

 

[JimLor]

Jim-thanks and it it good to know of someone close by. Lorie and i haven't sailed for a while and we are still working on just what each of the lines does! With identifying what we think is a preventor, we are down to 1 or 2 unknowns left. BTW we are boat #86.

 

[JimLor]

Bill -yup, but I was looking for the easy way out. On Friday I will winterize the shoser and have my soon watch for the exit thru-hull. Thanks.
Just looked up Rhode river, we are close. Our boat is on Cradle creek-on hardstands.

 

[JimLor]

Update

Went to the boat last Friday and did in fact figure out the shower sump deal. Do have to have the sump switch AND the water pressure switch on and it works like a champ. The water (antifreeze) exits thru the thru hull on the starboard side by the head.

I did not take pictures of the port "holes." However, the fiberglas/teak plywood connection is 5/8" thick and is not secured on any of the ports. I will put epoxy between and clamp them shut. I'll also do some file work to make sure the glas/teak connection is smooth and the the space is equal around the ports so the sealant has a chance to work.

Also had my first screwup regarding the ports. As I looked at them the opening lens on the combo port is clearly tinted while the rest "seemed" more or less clear - so I ordered the new ones that way. Well, after taking a good look at the ports in my garage I can see I was wrong and all are tinted.

I dealt with Matt at Beckson's and just put the clear on a trip back to Beckson's and he's having new ports manufactured. $20 restock fee and shipping aren't too steep to correct my mistake. I also got new lenses, screens, and gaskets for the aft 3 opening ports to bring them up to date. Also replacing the knobs with cam action closing mechanisms. If you deal with Beckson's make sure you ask about their net prices - they are significantly lower than those on their website and they really are a pleasure to deal with.