inmast furling line replacement

[Syversens]

hello all, I'm having some problems furling my sail these days and its getting harder, I think its due to the lines rubbing on the drum like I see on the forum. I can't find the posts in the archives so if anyone knows how to do this or can direct me to the post I'd really appreciate the help. also are there any special toold for this job ?Also I seen posts where the halyard tension is important, how do I know how much is enough ? Just wondering if anyone found a good way to measrue it or observe it on the sail (my boat is a 361 99)thank you all Gaute

 

[Syversens]

dimension and skill level

Thanks Bill, I found the article on USSpars you mentioned and it looks pretty straight forward... however I was left with two questions:first, do you know how much line I should get before I pull out the one on the boat or should i just do that and measure ? second, how would you estimate the skill level for this, there are rivots that needs to be removed and possibly replaced (though it doesnt mention that)... also did you replace the outhaul line as well ?ThanksGaute

 

[Bill C320 Papillon]

line replacement

Yes, I replaced the outhaul at the same time. It is really easy. If you have the owners manual for your boat, there should be a set of tables that show dimensions and lengths for all running and standing rigging. If you don't have it, try the Beneteauusa.com site and you may find a downloadable copy of the manual. If not, call Beneteau and ask. If all else fails, just unfurl the sail and measure the line as best you can. I'd add a foot or two just to be on the safe side.If I'm any indication, your skill level doesn't have to be too high. I know the instructions don't mention the rivets, mine has them too. They are aluminum rivets and you can drill off the heads with a battery powered drill. Pick a drill bit size that is smaller than the head (about he same size as the rivet stem)of the rivet. Drill slowly and once you get through the head, it will simply come off onto you bit. Push out the stem of the river with a small screw driver. The plate you are removing is simply there to cover the sharp edge of the opening into the mast so the lines won't chafe, it has no structural value. You can thread the rivet holes and use screws to re-attach the plate. use small nuts and bolts, or get a pop rivet gun at your local hardware store (about $15) and replace the aluminum rivets. I use rivets so I don't have dissimilar metals but it's no big deal to use screws or bolts with some insulating washer between them and the aluminum.I also found a site on ebay that sells New England rope for really reasonable prices. It is called Milwaukee Rigging. You can probably call them for recommendations for the best type of line or check in a West Marine catalog for their suggestions.Just so you'll know, the furling spool takes a pretty hard pull/pry to get the bottom out far enough to get to the knot securing the line so don't be concerned if doesn't just flop out.Good LuckBill

 

[Bill C320 Papillon]

Gaute

Yours does look different than mine. On mine, there are 4 bolts holding a cover plate(2 at the top and 2 at the bottom) as well as the aluminum plate on the port side of the opening that was secured with 2 rivets. When you remove the 4 bolts and the riveted plate, the whole thing moves out from the bottom. The line goes through a hole in the bottom slot of the reel and sticks out below where it is knotted. I don't have the screw that shows in you photo and the piece you describe as a rod, is probably there to keep the line against the drum, on mine, it's an aluminum plate in the back.At this point, I suggest that you e-mail a copy of your picture (call first) to Julian or George at US spars and ask them if this is one of their units. You can get them by phone at 386-462-3760 or by e-mail at Julian@usspars.com (or george@usspars.com) They were both very helpful when I had questions about my furler. If it isn't one of theirs, they can probably identify the brand for you.By the way, your line looks pretty good in the photo.Good luck and keep us posted on your adventure.

 

[Syversens]

thanks !

thanks for the emails, I'll definately try that... I actually think I have a charleston spar and not US spar. I will also put a call in to their service department and see if they can help. I think this one is not as common as most feedbacks I have are exactly like yours.the lines are ok but very "brittle" to take the sail down I had to cut the outhaul and it was easily done with my dull pocket knife which scared me.... there might be more life in it but the rope feels stiff and the fact that I could cut it like that makes me want to replace it ever more I'll keep you updated and thanks for all the suggestionsthanksGaute

 

[Bill C320 Papillon]

Don't know if it will help

but you might try "Liquid Wrench" and using a hammer to tap on the end of the screw driver while it is in the screw head. Don't tap too hard but maybe a little vibration might break it loose or get the penetrating oil farther into the threads.Another option might be to get a flathead bit that will fit onto a socket wrench. That should give you more leverage and you can always fit a pipe over the wrench handle for a cheater bar which will really get a lot of torque.Good luckBill

 

[Bill C320 Papillon]

Don't know if it will help

but you might try "Liquid Wrench" and using a hammer to tap on the end of the screw driver while it is in the screw head. Don't tap too hard but maybe a little vibration might break it loose or get the penetrating oil farther into the threads.Another option might be to get a flathead bit that will fit onto a socket wrench. That should give you more leverage and you can always fit a pipe over the wrench handle for a cheater bar which will really get a lot of torque.Good luckBill

 

[Bill C320 Papillon]

Don't know if it will help

but you might try "Liquid Wrench" and using a hammer to tap on the end of the screw driver while it is in the screw head. Don't tap too hard but maybe a little vibration might break it loose or get the penetrating oil farther into the threads.Another option might be to get a flathead bit that will fit onto a socket wrench. That should give you more leverage and you can always fit a pipe over the wrench handle for a cheater bar which will really get a lot of torque.Good luckBill

 

[Bill C320 Papillon]

Don't know if it will help

but you might try "Liquid Wrench" and using a hammer to tap on the end of the screw driver while it is in the screw head. Don't tap too hard but maybe a little vibration might break it loose or get the penetrating oil farther into the threads.Another option might be to get a flathead bit that will fit onto a socket wrench. That should give you more leverage and you can always fit a pipe over the wrench handle for a cheater bar which will really get a lot of torque.Good luckBill

 

[Bill C320 Papillon]

Call Charleston Spars

Phone # 704 597 1502. Surely they have run into you situation in the past.Feeling your frustrationBill

 

[Bill C320 Papillon]

Call Charleston Spars

Phone # 704 597 1502. Surely they have run into you situation in the past.Feeling your frustrationBill

 

[Bill C320 Papillon]

Call Charleston Spars

Phone # 704 597 1502. Surely they have run into you situation in the past.Feeling your frustrationBill

 

[Bill C320 Papillon]

Call Charleston Spars

Phone # 704 597 1502. Surely they have run into you situation in the past.Feeling your frustrationBill