After rehabing a trailer and many small fixes my 1973 Oday 22 has a new home on the water. Still a lot to do but she will be sailed while working on her.
In the water
- Thread starter russlmiller
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I had a stern rail, I removed it and gave it away to a fellow o'day sbo'er a few years ago. I took it off because it interfered with the main sheet on anything other than a close reach. My main sheet attaches on each side to the gunwales, some (later model?) 22's use a triangle plate on the backstay, in that case I don't think it would be a problem. Just something to watchout for.
Russ,
You are near me. If you look, you will see I got a 1977 O Day 22 last November, been slowly refurbing her as well. About finished with exterior, like yours, she needed some love. Weak deck spots from water iintrusion. Every screw and bolt hole top deck leaked.
I live in Chattanooga and dock her at my dock north of the dam. I am about 3 river miles north of the lock.
You ever feel like trailering her to Chickamauga or sailing, let me know. We can exchange tips and bits.
You are near me. If you look, you will see I got a 1977 O Day 22 last November, been slowly refurbing her as well. About finished with exterior, like yours, she needed some love. Weak deck spots from water iintrusion. Every screw and bolt hole top deck leaked.
I live in Chattanooga and dock her at my dock north of the dam. I am about 3 river miles north of the lock.
You ever feel like trailering her to Chickamauga or sailing, let me know. We can exchange tips and bits.
Hello. Found my 22 at gold point marina. Stll needs a lot of work- soft deck areas, etc. but at least it is in the water and I am sailing her. Got a slip at Sequoia marina on the little tennessee river in Vonore Tn. I am in Chattanooga some and would love to see your boat. Russ
Mine had several soft spots. I have an annoying habit of not being able to half a33 anything. I stripped the entire boat and spent 4 months fixing every weak spot on the deck.
Welcome to come and take a look. The interior and the hull paint are on tap for fall. After getting the deck fixed, painted and refurbishing all the wood...I needed a break to enjoy her. Don't plan on doing anymore work till October. I might install the circuit board. Right now I use alligator clips and connect each light to the battery. Takes about 5 min...so, having a switch would be handy. Just a matter of do I care right now.
You are welcome anytime. I can offer tips on the weak spots. That was the biggest task for me. Glad I did it. She will last another 40 years now. Deck is rock solid.
Welcome to come and take a look. The interior and the hull paint are on tap for fall. After getting the deck fixed, painted and refurbishing all the wood...I needed a break to enjoy her. Don't plan on doing anymore work till October. I might install the circuit board. Right now I use alligator clips and connect each light to the battery. Takes about 5 min...so, having a switch would be handy. Just a matter of do I care right now.
You are welcome anytime. I can offer tips on the weak spots. That was the biggest task for me. Glad I did it. She will last another 40 years now. Deck is rock solid.
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Very nice. Yea need to fix my deck. Will be a winter project for sure. Want to put a bullhead in the batter area to seperate from the cabin. Would love to put a fuel locker on the portside also. For now love sailing her. I will let you know next time I am in the area.
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Your boat doesn't have a fuel locker in the cockpit, on the port side? Wow. Little things year to year, I guess.
As for deck repair. I actually caution against a winter repair. The process involves 2 things, regardless the method you need:
Heat and Time. I had about 4 areas that needed repair. 3 smaller ones and 1 larger. The epoxy I used to repair the damage is very strong, and it is the recommended one. West Systems epoxy. The stuff has a stronger compressive strength than the original deck, making the repaired areas stronger than any other on the boat.
What it needs though, is a particular set of atmospheric conditions to work. It needs temp above 50 degrees for at least 8 hours afterwards. It must not dip below that, or you risk ruining the cure and getting a bad set.
When you look at the methods to fixing a soft deck, you will see there are 2 main plans of attack. One easy, one hard. It depends on the degree of rot.
Easy: I call it the drill hole method. This method involves drilling a ton of 1/8 inch bit holes all over the affected area. This does 2 things. 1 it removes a bunch of rotted core material and creating space for the epoxy and 2, it allows air into the space to dry out the area.
You wait for several months. I waited 2.5 months to allow the area to dry out. Then you inject high strength, structural epoxy (not just any epoxy will do, it must be structural epoxy designed for significant weight on it) into each hole. I drilled about 300. When it hardens, it will have bonded to all the wood and fiberglass in the deck core and create a bond stronger than the original.
There is much opinion, but this method should not be used for a very large section. I did a 2x3 section and had great results, so your mileage will vary. It saves you the hassle of trying to cut up the deck and getting it to match right.
2 Method - Hard Method. This method involves butting a new core on the deck. You cut up the top layer of fiberglass and install a new core. I can't go into much detail on this method since I chose to avoid it. If done correctly, it will work great. I do hear it takes a bit of skill to get to match the original deck curve.
I re-painted and then put kiwi grip on it; which is a thick paint... so any deck blemish from a fix was long hidden. I was very happy. Before, there were sections you were worried if you stepped on it too hard. Now? Rock Solid. I spent all day Saturday diving off the bow into the water and it flexed not once.
Since the deck softness is structural; I say had at it. I can offer you plenty of advice.
As for deck repair. I actually caution against a winter repair. The process involves 2 things, regardless the method you need:
Heat and Time. I had about 4 areas that needed repair. 3 smaller ones and 1 larger. The epoxy I used to repair the damage is very strong, and it is the recommended one. West Systems epoxy. The stuff has a stronger compressive strength than the original deck, making the repaired areas stronger than any other on the boat.
What it needs though, is a particular set of atmospheric conditions to work. It needs temp above 50 degrees for at least 8 hours afterwards. It must not dip below that, or you risk ruining the cure and getting a bad set.
When you look at the methods to fixing a soft deck, you will see there are 2 main plans of attack. One easy, one hard. It depends on the degree of rot.
Easy: I call it the drill hole method. This method involves drilling a ton of 1/8 inch bit holes all over the affected area. This does 2 things. 1 it removes a bunch of rotted core material and creating space for the epoxy and 2, it allows air into the space to dry out the area.
You wait for several months. I waited 2.5 months to allow the area to dry out. Then you inject high strength, structural epoxy (not just any epoxy will do, it must be structural epoxy designed for significant weight on it) into each hole. I drilled about 300. When it hardens, it will have bonded to all the wood and fiberglass in the deck core and create a bond stronger than the original.
There is much opinion, but this method should not be used for a very large section. I did a 2x3 section and had great results, so your mileage will vary. It saves you the hassle of trying to cut up the deck and getting it to match right.
2 Method - Hard Method. This method involves butting a new core on the deck. You cut up the top layer of fiberglass and install a new core. I can't go into much detail on this method since I chose to avoid it. If done correctly, it will work great. I do hear it takes a bit of skill to get to match the original deck curve.
I re-painted and then put kiwi grip on it; which is a thick paint... so any deck blemish from a fix was long hidden. I was very happy. Before, there were sections you were worried if you stepped on it too hard. Now? Rock Solid. I spent all day Saturday diving off the bow into the water and it flexed not once.
Since the deck softness is structural; I say had at it. I can offer you plenty of advice.
Thanks for all the info. I will be picking your brain as I get more into it. My boat does have a locker onthe starboard side with battery in it. None on port side. Just a very long bunk in side.
Oh. Ok. I see. On mine they moved them to opposite sides. I see why you want that as well. Better weight distribution.
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