In h260 does water ballast plug area somehow drain to bilge?

[Davenport]

Thanks to everyone, each tidbit of info may make lives of 100s a bit easier, thank you. I posted a few questions in 1 comment to not take up much room.

Just got a h260. I think it's great but not perfect especially this old a boat .

1. Does water ballast plug area somehow drain to bilge (under the wood step), I read in anothrr post it drains, did previous owner siliconing the inside wall gap here stop this?

2. My water level in tank is high, is this due to cabin floor sinking a bit from years of weight and sogginess? If rises a bit more wow could be problem.

3. Could one add many rubber washers to ballast giant screwrod to raise the lower water line that water must exceed to splash up around screwrod into inside?

4. I imagine seawater is denser so if flush w fresh water from hose from top would this make boat float higher?

5. For squishy inside cabin floor anyone just cut out 1/2 inch plywood cut to be flush with bathroom and sink and queenberth and front table walls, to add floor strength this simple way?

 

[twalker H260]

Thanks to everyone, each tidbit of info may make lives of 100s a bit easier, thank you. I posted a few questions in 1 comment to not take up much room.

Just got a h260. I think it's great but not perfect especially this old a boat .

1. Does water ballast plug area somehow drain to bilge (under the wood step), I read in anothrr post it drains, did previous owner siliconing the inside wall gap here stop this?

-This area is open to the aft where the bilge pump is located but it does have a bump which would prevent most water getting to the pump x which is likely too high in any case to pump out the small amount of water that comes in. It can be dried up wit a towel or sponge from the hatches under the rear berth.

- If the area around the top of the ballast tank drain valve rod/vent area is siliconed, this is a mod that some previous owners did on their boats it was not done at the factory - it has never been necessary on ours as water infiltration is minimal (our worst was this past summer when I didn’t put the vent plug in or close the ballast tank drain for a period of time after we splashed while getting a few other things prepared. It amounted to a few cups of water - easily handled with a towel or sponge as described above.


2. My water level in tank is high, is this due to cabin floor sinking a bit from years of weight and sogginess? If rises a bit more wow could be problem.

on our boat this is usually a function of where people are standing, how much gear we have aboard and where stowed. Water level should be at or very slightly under the bottom of the air vent. Air vent should be plugged with a 1” bait well type drain plug.

3. Could one add many rubber washers to ballast giant screwrod to raise the lower water line that water must exceed to splash up around screwrod into inside?

- If water is splashing around the drain rod when tank is closed then the rubber and possibly stainless washers need to be replaced. Ours does not have any water coming around the drain rod when the nut has been tightened down - also check that the gasket on lower end of drain rod assembly is intact and sealing properly

https://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Hunter_260_71340458.pdf

4. I imagine seawater is denser so if flush w fresh water from hose from top would this make boat float higher?

- It should float on her lines even with seawater, unless she’s overloaded.

5. For squishy inside cabin floor anyone just cut out 1/2 inch plywood cut to be flush with bathroom and sink and queenberth and front table walls, to add floor strength this simple way?

- Our floor isn’t squishy once the ballast tank is full and vent/drain are closed. I believe there is some fibreglass putty that was placed at various locations to fill the space between the top of the tank and the underside of the cabin sole. When on trailer, or ballast tank is empty the cabin sole does flex noticeably.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

As a dealer, I was involved in the design as I sold and serviced them too
The picture above is the water ballast top which I attached to the hull with 5200 permanent sealant reinforced with fiberglass. It lays below the floor pan/floor. There is a recessed area of the floor pan to accept a teak and holly sole glued in place with Liquid Nails sealed on the top edge with a pure silicone bead or Dow 795 sealant.

Between the floor or floor pan and water ballast lid, Hunter installed marine putty in places to keep the lid from sloshing. I have felt that movement in a few boats but suggested live with it as it would be extremely difficult to repair. First the teak and holloy sole would have to be removed. Secondly, holes would have to be drilled carefully to get expansion spray foam inside between the lid and deck pan without drilling into the water ballast tank lid.

The water ballast tank will fill up to a point several inches below the top under the lift up step never overflowing with one person on board regardless of water source. You have to make sure the gasket under the wing nut washer is still good. The air vent hole should have a drain plug that expands and contracts by tuning it which does not allow water to escape from the vent hole.

You need to go to boat information/Hunter resources/260and read the downloads and owner modifications which has alot of information.

Then if you still have any questions, post them here and provide pictures as well.

 

[Davenport]

Thanks. The step ballast area did get caulked for some reason, and water level is high..

Weirdly I suspect putting fresh water in tank while in ocean makes water in ballast tank be HIGHER. With fresh water it's right at the hole. With salt water a week ago it was 2 inches below hole. . . My brain hurts trying to visualize if seawater would pull down boat faster so then rest of hull buoys up the boat sooner before water fills up to hole, if that makes sense.....

I am gonna cut a plywood cabin floor panel, just to see if nicer than stepping on flexing water ballast floor.. . THANKS.

 

[twalker H260]

The level of the water in your photo is not unusual for our boat - depending on how many are aboard, where they are standing and what other supply’s and gear we have aboard. Just put your plug in, clamp it over and don’t worry about it.

do you have one of these plugs?

 

[Davenport]

Thanks for saying water that high ain't abnormal. I wouldve bet otherwise.

I think my boat has been sitting in ocean 5 years, and had few bottom paint jobs, maybe that adds weight.

Salt water is under 2% heavier than fresh water. So guess the water level in hole shouldn't change. Hmm.

"""''" The highest known specific gravity for the open seas and oceans is 1.031, which gives 64.36 for the weight of a cubic foot of water. In the case of the Dead Sea and Great Salt Lake, however, the water sometimes weighs as high as 75 pounds per cubic foot. The average weight for all the oceans at the average temperature of 63°.5 F is 64.0, and this is why sea water has the reputation of weighing just 64 pounds per cubic foot."""""". Freshwater is 62.4 pounds per cubic foot.

 

[rgranger]

How/ why would the water in your ballast tank be any different than the water your boat is floating in?

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

I sold 25% of the 260 line and it does not matter which water you are in as it is just filling volume inside the tank. @Davenport
May I suggest concentrating on reviewing the information on you boat under boat information as there is a lot of other pertinent information you need to concentrate on.
Those who respond do have a lot to share with you. I am available by phone but you will need to advise me by private message your phone number and I do not share it with anyone to include my wife

Crazy Dave

 

[gudiss]

great pic!!