I have been discovering lately that the insulated cooler on the 30 does not keep cold that well despite bags of ice and door seal. I have read that the insulation is not very thick and cooling can be improved with increased insulation. I am considering injecting a "low expansion" foam, but am not aware of the spaces or voids around the cooler or good injection points. Has anyone identified the spaces or voids around the existing insulation and injected a low expansion foam or used other insulation material? I would hate to remove a few of the drawers nearest the cooler or move the stove to drill holes to inject the foam only to find no space is there for expansion. Am I wasting my time on this or has anyone else tried this project with some degree of success? I do not intend on adding a 12 volt system. Any suggestions? Bob As a post script: When we sailed my buddies 30 out of Pensacola many years ago he would place two-three blocks of ice into the cooler a day before we shoved off to get the cooler chilled down. We still had to add bags of ice to keep everything chilled. Between the foot pump to get the water out and the poor insulation quality, this is the only area of the boat the engineers could have improved upon.
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J
John
ice box
I put some new stuff around the cooler and now I can keep ice cream for two days and the Ice lasts for days two I fill the cooler with food beer and frozen water (10)12oz I use one bag and one block ive only tryed it two weekeds but it was 90 + last weekend .first i put glass insulaation around the box behind the draws then i used this stuff that was like bubble wrap with foil on both sides.I used about six layers with a seat fome between to fill up space they say the bubble wrap stuff is R 8 for 3/8" on the box. I bought it from a building supply I took out my stove latch and drilled in and foud it full of fome.but the bottom of the box had some space that needed stuffing. John
I put some new stuff around the cooler and now I can keep ice cream for two days and the Ice lasts for days two I fill the cooler with food beer and frozen water (10)12oz I use one bag and one block ive only tryed it two weekeds but it was 90 + last weekend .first i put glass insulaation around the box behind the draws then i used this stuff that was like bubble wrap with foil on both sides.I used about six layers with a seat fome between to fill up space they say the bubble wrap stuff is R 8 for 3/8" on the box. I bought it from a building supply I took out my stove latch and drilled in and foud it full of fome.but the bottom of the box had some space that needed stuffing. John
J
Jack Swords
Another thought
We added insulation on the ouside, but not all parts of box are accessable. Then added 3 in of insulation on the inside, topped with the aforementioned foil surfaced bubble wrap. Cleaned up with foil tape. You might close the drain or make awater loop to not lose cold air. Also in our '84 Cat, the engine heat runs under the sink, then under the box. Easily closed off with regular home insulation. We use a DC conversion and this has made a remarkable difference down here in the heat.
We added insulation on the ouside, but not all parts of box are accessable. Then added 3 in of insulation on the inside, topped with the aforementioned foil surfaced bubble wrap. Cleaned up with foil tape. You might close the drain or make awater loop to not lose cold air. Also in our '84 Cat, the engine heat runs under the sink, then under the box. Easily closed off with regular home insulation. We use a DC conversion and this has made a remarkable difference down here in the heat.
ice box
this is not about insulation, but we have a system that works just fine for us. we freeze fltered tap water in large plastic bottles and use them for drinking and cooking as they melt. they are taken from home in an insulated container and put it the ice box frozen - the insulated container left ashore. no muss, no fuss. we also think the frozen bottles stay frozen longer than loose ice.
this is not about insulation, but we have a system that works just fine for us. we freeze fltered tap water in large plastic bottles and use them for drinking and cooking as they melt. they are taken from home in an insulated container and put it the ice box frozen - the insulated container left ashore. no muss, no fuss. we also think the frozen bottles stay frozen longer than loose ice.
Insulate
On my C27 I had the same issue and thoughts. I drilled holes from the inside of the ice box every 8-10" or so around the perimeter of the box, and up and down the height. I propped up some cardboard covered with waxpaper (so the hardened foam wouldn't stick to it) horizontally below the bottom of the icebox and vertically between the icebox and the drawer unit to catch the foam that would drip down toward the hull or expand into the drawer area before it hardened. Sprayed the foam from the can from the inside of the icebox thru the holes I'd drilled to the area between the icebox and hull or drawers, starting at the bottom and working up. Doing it in small areas allows you prevent bulging where the area of the hardened foam might be greater than the space available to fill. The many drilled holes allows the foam an escape if you do put in a little too much. After the foam dries, fill the holes with epoxy and paint. Also insulate the teak icebox cover with styrofaom covered with epoxy. Be sure to use epoxy, as polyester resin will melt the strofoam. I went from losing a 10lb bag of ice in an evening sail, to keeping a 10lb block and 2-7lb bags for a 3 day weekend in 100+ heat. I did this about 10 years ago, before hi-tec board insulation was easily available. Adding board insulation to the inside of the box would make it even better.
On my C27 I had the same issue and thoughts. I drilled holes from the inside of the ice box every 8-10" or so around the perimeter of the box, and up and down the height. I propped up some cardboard covered with waxpaper (so the hardened foam wouldn't stick to it) horizontally below the bottom of the icebox and vertically between the icebox and the drawer unit to catch the foam that would drip down toward the hull or expand into the drawer area before it hardened. Sprayed the foam from the can from the inside of the icebox thru the holes I'd drilled to the area between the icebox and hull or drawers, starting at the bottom and working up. Doing it in small areas allows you prevent bulging where the area of the hardened foam might be greater than the space available to fill. The many drilled holes allows the foam an escape if you do put in a little too much. After the foam dries, fill the holes with epoxy and paint. Also insulate the teak icebox cover with styrofaom covered with epoxy. Be sure to use epoxy, as polyester resin will melt the strofoam. I went from losing a 10lb bag of ice in an evening sail, to keeping a 10lb block and 2-7lb bags for a 3 day weekend in 100+ heat. I did this about 10 years ago, before hi-tec board insulation was easily available. Adding board insulation to the inside of the box would make it even better.
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Bob
Thanks Peter
The board insulation sounds like a great idea if it is not too thick. I will research this before trying the foam injection method, which you describe in good detail. I used four bags of ice this past weekend and I was left with just cold water from melted ice and not so cold drinks. Amazing!!! Thanks again. Bob
The board insulation sounds like a great idea if it is not too thick. I will research this before trying the foam injection method, which you describe in good detail. I used four bags of ice this past weekend and I was left with just cold water from melted ice and not so cold drinks. Amazing!!! Thanks again. Bob
Board insulation
As mentioned I didn't use it, but from what I understand, the R-value of this stuff is so high that an inch glued to the inside of the box gives you more R-value than like 4" of the foam stuff I used. After spraying the foam, it hasn't been a problem for me, so I haven't done anything additional, but I'd sure investigate the board if I had it to do over again. But even so still be sure you insulate the ice box cover too. Also be sure you don't have a way for water outside to back up into the ice box thru the drain. On my 27 that was a big problem until I made it a policy to keep the thru hull closed except for a brief period to drain (always a good policy anyway). In a 30, as I recall though, your ice box likely drains to the bilge.
As mentioned I didn't use it, but from what I understand, the R-value of this stuff is so high that an inch glued to the inside of the box gives you more R-value than like 4" of the foam stuff I used. After spraying the foam, it hasn't been a problem for me, so I haven't done anything additional, but I'd sure investigate the board if I had it to do over again. But even so still be sure you insulate the ice box cover too. Also be sure you don't have a way for water outside to back up into the ice box thru the drain. On my 27 that was a big problem until I made it a policy to keep the thru hull closed except for a brief period to drain (always a good policy anyway). In a 30, as I recall though, your ice box likely drains to the bilge.
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