.. of all the boats at the marina with furling jibs. What would it take to convert my hank on jib to a furler?
I'm jealous...
- Thread starter MaryEllaRose
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You have to:
Remove the hanks and add #6 luff tape along the luff
Add UV cloth along the foot and leech, or buy a sock.
You MAY have to:
Have the sail shortened to fit the shorter max luff size of the furler
You may want to ( if the sail is a genoa)
Add foam luff to help it shape when reefed.
Each task will cost $100-200 if done professionally. The total cost ends up being so close to a new sail made in Asia that most people go that route. Why spend that money on a sail 1/2 way though it's useful life?
Remove the hanks and add #6 luff tape along the luff
Add UV cloth along the foot and leech, or buy a sock.
You MAY have to:
Have the sail shortened to fit the shorter max luff size of the furler
You may want to ( if the sail is a genoa)
Add foam luff to help it shape when reefed.
Each task will cost $100-200 if done professionally. The total cost ends up being so close to a new sail made in Asia that most people go that route. Why spend that money on a sail 1/2 way though it's useful life?
It might in certain conditions. The slightly reduced sail area, the extra cloth on the leech effecting shape, and the moving the foot off the deck will effect speed, from very little in a good breeze to noticeable in One Design racing in light airs.
To quantify, some PHRF boards give a 3 second / mile adjustment for a furler. That's less than a boat length over a mile of sailing.
You shouldn't be. I've had both, and on smaller boats I like hanks (easier to have 2 jibs, less complication, easier to stow sail).
Yeah, no jealousy here either, I likes me hank ons! 
With hank-ons and practice, you can go from a 180 drifter to a storm jib in just a minute or two, without compromising sail shape. And/or, you can simply douse whatever size headsail is flying in a second or two, using a downhaul line.
With hank-ons and practice, you can go from a 180 drifter to a storm jib in just a minute or two, without compromising sail shape. And/or, you can simply douse whatever size headsail is flying in a second or two, using a downhaul line.
Don't forget the advantages of hank on sails as you envy furling. Primary advantage is you're able to switch sails for different conditions. And, on a 22 footer, the sails just aren't that big, so handling them is easy. You might do well with a 135 and a 100. Keep the 135 hanked on, and keep it in a zippered Sunbrella bow bag. When you want to raise it, unzip the bag and pull the halyard.
If we were talking about a 30 footer, I'd say furling is a near must.
If we were talking about a 30 footer, I'd say furling is a near must.
Hmm. Kind of a pita when raising/lowering the mast as the furler adds weight. We raise/lower the furler sail anyway to be able to use the jib halyard on the gin pole. However, the headsail is always the size we want it for the wind: 0-120%, all from the comfort of the cockpit.
"from the comfort of the cockpit" is a convenience the admiral loves, which by default means I love it too. Guess it depends on when/where you want to work: before/after sailing on land or on the deck of your boat in the wind?
"from the comfort of the cockpit" is a convenience the admiral loves, which by default means I love it too. Guess it depends on when/where you want to work: before/after sailing on land or on the deck of your boat in the wind?
August sail mag addresses the conversion from hank on to furl. It says same thing Jackdaw advised you. It better be new and it will cost as much as a new furler sail. Buy a new furling sail.
Chief
Chief
Hmm... It sound like my jealousy might be misplaced. I had no idea it would involve modifications to the jib itself. I have a jib down haul, wouldn't want to sail without it. I have but one 110 jib. (The PO included another but it turned out to be for a C-27). The idea of a sail bag sounds like a more economical solution.
Good call. The C22 is just too small to justify the almost $2k conversion cost(New furler and headsail) ....plus the poorer performance for just a little convenience.
I'm seriously considering selling our CDI furler once the season ends.
If we kept the boat in a marina I'd love it more, but trailering it a lot + furling = pita.
That said, I think Don got a different furler and I believe he said it might make him a convert. Not sure which unit it was ?
If we kept the boat in a marina I'd love it more, but trailering it a lot + furling = pita.
That said, I think Don got a different furler and I believe he said it might make him a convert. Not sure which unit it was ?
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I've done both.
My Macgregor 26S had a CDI furler. The sail that was on it when I bought it was some kind of laminated deal that while It was OK to start with it was still 20 years old and about midway through my first season with it it began to disintegrate. In the bag-O-sails that came with the boat was the never been used OEM 110 hank on jib. I got the luff conversion kit from Sailrite and put it to work. The boat came with a jib sock so no fooling around with UV covers on the sail.
As far as rigging for the trailer or launch It may be that I didn't know any better but it just wasn't a problem. I used a piece of pretty rigid PVC pipe as an extension lashed to the mast to support the furling drum just the way the PO had done.
My current boat is hank on. I have a 110 jib and a light weight 150. I can change sails in less than 10 minutes. I currently keep the 110 hanked on and stowed in a foredeck bag.
Not quite as simple as a furler but doesn't take long to unzip the bag, moved the halyard from the end of the bag to the sail and go. I also rigged a downhaul for the jib. So unless I manage to foul a something with a jib sheet (which hardly ever happens unless I'm doing good in a race or someone is watching) I don't have to leave the cockpit.
My Macgregor 26S had a CDI furler. The sail that was on it when I bought it was some kind of laminated deal that while It was OK to start with it was still 20 years old and about midway through my first season with it it began to disintegrate. In the bag-O-sails that came with the boat was the never been used OEM 110 hank on jib. I got the luff conversion kit from Sailrite and put it to work. The boat came with a jib sock so no fooling around with UV covers on the sail.
As far as rigging for the trailer or launch It may be that I didn't know any better but it just wasn't a problem. I used a piece of pretty rigid PVC pipe as an extension lashed to the mast to support the furling drum just the way the PO had done.
My current boat is hank on. I have a 110 jib and a light weight 150. I can change sails in less than 10 minutes. I currently keep the 110 hanked on and stowed in a foredeck bag.
Not quite as simple as a furler but doesn't take long to unzip the bag, moved the halyard from the end of the bag to the sail and go. I also rigged a downhaul for the jib. So unless I manage to foul a something with a jib sheet (which hardly ever happens unless I'm doing good in a race or someone is watching) I don't have to leave the cockpit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oU2X9sAosA
If you trailer, a CDI furler is a good option. I have one on my Compac 23 and it is pretty good.
My boat sits in the slip through the summer. In the late fall I will remove it and store it on a trailer for the winter.
The CDI furler isn't hard to install. It isn't priced too high either. The other thing that is nice about it is that it is somewhat flexible so it is better for a trailer sailor.
I carry a 110 and a 150 jib. Normally the 150 is on the furler. If I am going to go out and I am expecting heavier winds I will change down to the 110. Of course I can roller reef somewhat and that is a nice feature.
Here is the part that may suck. Depending on how old your sail is it may be cheaper to buy a new one than to have the luff tape and sun shield put on it. A good size may be a 135 because it is a bit flexible for use. You can use it for lighter winds and roll it down to about 110 for heavier winds.
Having a furler is nice. You have a nice way to adjust the sail area up front (the more you roll in the worse the sail shape will be so it does effect things going upwind). You don't have to store a sail in the cabin all of the time, and it is easy to get the sail up and down. I prefer it.
If you trailer, a CDI furler is a good option. I have one on my Compac 23 and it is pretty good.
My boat sits in the slip through the summer. In the late fall I will remove it and store it on a trailer for the winter.
The CDI furler isn't hard to install. It isn't priced too high either. The other thing that is nice about it is that it is somewhat flexible so it is better for a trailer sailor.
I carry a 110 and a 150 jib. Normally the 150 is on the furler. If I am going to go out and I am expecting heavier winds I will change down to the 110. Of course I can roller reef somewhat and that is a nice feature.
Here is the part that may suck. Depending on how old your sail is it may be cheaper to buy a new one than to have the luff tape and sun shield put on it. A good size may be a 135 because it is a bit flexible for use. You can use it for lighter winds and roll it down to about 110 for heavier winds.
Having a furler is nice. You have a nice way to adjust the sail area up front (the more you roll in the worse the sail shape will be so it does effect things going upwind). You don't have to store a sail in the cabin all of the time, and it is easy to get the sail up and down. I prefer it.
You might want to consider reef points on the jib. You get 3 sails for the space of the two you have. Or four sails from two if you do both. Not as fast as the rf, but quicker than a jib swap. It sets far better and is a lot less pricey, not to mention bullet- proof. A quick release on the sheets speeds things up (a toggle works well and is light) plus a tack pennant. A downhaul will let you dump a jib faster than you can roller furl it, plus a shackle to keep the halyard end captive on the stay.