I'm going to do some biggish jobs tomorrow; how should I not die while doing this? - RESOLVED

[Stu Jackson]

For the engine bolts, I write the wrench size next to the bolt with a Sharpie.

Great idea. I've done that for our transmission dipstick, HX zinc and our engine mount lag bolts. Always helpful to start with the right tool.
One day I had a friend on board, and asked him about tightening some nut or bolt that was hard to see and a few feet away.
He held his hand out and said, "Give me the 7/16" wrench." I asked how he knew the size from that distance. He said, "35 years in the auto repair business."

 

[Ron20324]

...My suspicion is that there was a piece of impeller in the system, it melted onto the heat exchanger and that is how the system overheated (if it overheated)./QUOTE]

OOPS! I just now see you do not have a YM engine. There are probably at least 6 or 8 tubes going EACH direction in the heat exchanger. The odds that ALL of them are blocked- even by one vane- is all but nil. My thought is if the vane got that far, it is stuck in the end of the heat exchanger cap end from the water pump.

 

[HanBan]

Was this for a 3YM20- or some other engine? If a YM... First, there is a raw water filter- probably on the starboard aft side of the engine, on the wall. Close the thruhull intake! Unscrew the cap and lift the basket out. You'd be surprised what can get trapped in there. BE SURE to fill the filter after you put the basket back in!!! This is to prime the water system. Be sure the rubber gasket is in the cap!!! It will take maybe 15 seconds before the water comes out the exhaust thruhull.

At the front, lower, port-side, of the engine there is a hose that supplies water to the engine-mounted impeller-type water pump. On the hose is a 1" or so protrusion that you can take apart to drain the hose back to that point. You might have to destroy the band clamp to get it off, but get a regular ( 1 inch?)hose clamp before you even start taking it apart. Bits of my impeller were there, and maybe the blade, as I found it under the engine later on.

Looking for pieces of rubber in the heat exchanger, I took off the front cover and alternated blowing/sucking into the tubes with a small shop vac. The rubber gasket/ring is probably available at a hardware store plumbing department. For my 3YM20, heat exchanger "O" ring, I show part # 128-990-44100, size D6/5,6/3.53 (I will recheck my spare for that size.).

Wash and rinse the air filter. They are expensive, IIRC.

I keep rubber spares in plastic jars to prevent them being crushed. A used spare is better than no spare, so keep the one you take out. GET A LOG BOOK and write every part number you buy. For the engine bolts, I write the wrench size next to the bolt with a Sharpie.

Ron, thanks for all of these suggestions. I'm back at the boat in a couple of days and I'll do all of these.

 

[HanBan]

I spoke with Zahniser in our area today about the engine thing. They said that the prop could be fouled, or any one of a thousand reasons. Before we splashed her, we had the cutlass bearing changed out, and I'm wondering if they tightened the cutlas bearing too tight with the wrong screws, and if they did, this might put too much pressure on the shaft and in turn too much load on the engine. It's just a thought.

 

[Davidasailor26]

I spoke with Zahniser in our area today about the engine thing. They said that the prop could be fouled, or any one of a thousand reasons. Before we splashed her, we had the cutlass bearing changed out, and I'm wondering if they tightened the cutlas bearing too tight with the wrong screws, and if they did, this might put too much pressure on the shaft and in turn too much load on the engine. It's just a thought.

How long has the boat been in the water since the cutless was done? It is true that fouling of the prop or of the bottom itself could cause some problems. Typical issues with a bad cutless are vibration not overloading / overheating. If you want to check you should be able to reach the prop shaft and spin it by hand (when the engine is off). It should spin with little resistance. You won't be able to check for fouling that way (fouling won't be noticible at that speed), but it will confirm there's not some strange resistance from the bearing.

 

[jssailem]

should be able to reach the prop shaft and spin it by hand (when the engine is off)

And the transmission in neutral...

 

[Ron20324]

I spoke with Zahniser in our area today

If your boat is at Zs, my neighbor/friend is working on "Loon" there. Dark Blue boat. He's an ocean sailor and has advice. I'll be there the 26th.

 

[HanBan]

How long has the boat been in the water since the cutless was done? It is true that fouling of the prop or of the bottom itself could cause some problems. Typical issues with a bad cutless are vibration not overloading / overheating. If you want to check you should be able to reach the prop shaft and spin it by hand (when the engine is off). It should spin with little resistance. You won't be able to check for fouling that way (fouling won't be noticible at that speed), but it will confirm there's not some strange resistance from the bearing.

It's only been in the water for about a month.

 

[HanBan]

If your boat is at Zs, my neighbor/friend is working on "Loon" there. Dark Blue boat. He's an ocean sailor and has advice. I'll be there the 26th.

Ron, my boat will be at Pax until our mast arrives from US Spars - which should be within the next month. I'm beginning to think that I should just have the boat towed by USBoats to Z's and let them figure all of it out. They are so busy though.

We were also at Bacons today in Annapolis. Should of grabbed a coffee!

 

[Ron20324]

Ron, my boat will be at Pax until our mast arrives from US Spars - which should be within the next month. I'm beginning to think that I should just have the boat towed by USBoats to Z's and let them figure all of it out. They are so busy though.

We were also at Bacons today in Annapolis. Should of grabbed a coffee!

Oh, yeah, I'm not far from there. Next time, let me know. I'm over by Fawcett's.