Should the head on my Cal 28-2 (Groco HF) with the overboard dischrge option, fill with water after dry flushing? I flush it dry, til there's no water in the bowl and after a short time, the bowl contains 3" - 4" of water. Presumably this water returmed from the holding tank as the y valve is in the holding tank position and the overboard discharge sea cock is closed. At the moment, I have the inlet disconnected, so the water could not have come from there. There is a vented loop in the dischrge between the head and the y valve. I thought that the head should remain dry after dry pumping but this question/answer from Raritan seems to say otherwise. It claime that water will return to the bowl from the vented loop. I would really like the bowl to remain dry after flushing to prevent slopping while heeled. -Smitty
I'm getting confused
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Get another pump for overboard discharge
Smitty, it would be best if your head pumped directly into the holding tank so it eliminates extra waste in the lines. Put another pump in the discharge line. There you would put the vented loop. If there is waste in that line, it would just go back into the tank.
Smitty, it would be best if your head pumped directly into the holding tank so it eliminates extra waste in the lines. Put another pump in the discharge line. There you would put the vented loop. If there is waste in that line, it would just go back into the tank.
flapper valve..
I'm not peggy, obviously, but it sounds like you have a worn out flapper valve. That is the one way valve between the bowl and discharge line that prevents water and waste from backing up into the bowl. Take a look at the head's diagram or a repair kit schematic... they may have another name for it.
I'm not peggy, obviously, but it sounds like you have a worn out flapper valve. That is the one way valve between the bowl and discharge line that prevents water and waste from backing up into the bowl. Take a look at the head's diagram or a repair kit schematic... they may have another name for it.
Joker valve
It's called a joker valve and they build up deposits that prevent it from closing all the way. It remains open just enough to allow what liquid is still in the hose between the toilet and the tank. Flush several bowls of fresh water through the toilet before cracking any of the hardware loose. Expect a bit of water and who knows what else once you remove the joker valve. Lots of paper towels, rubber gloves (surgical work well) and disenfectant are a must. It doesn;t take long to change the valve but cleaning up will. Good luck
It's called a joker valve and they build up deposits that prevent it from closing all the way. It remains open just enough to allow what liquid is still in the hose between the toilet and the tank. Flush several bowls of fresh water through the toilet before cracking any of the hardware loose. Expect a bit of water and who knows what else once you remove the joker valve. Lots of paper towels, rubber gloves (surgical work well) and disenfectant are a must. It doesn;t take long to change the valve but cleaning up will. Good luck
No, it's not the joker valve or the flapper valve
Yes, there SHOULD be a vented loop in the system if the toilet flushes overboard, and it is in the right place. I suspect you aren't flushing long enough in the dry mode, so the water that's left in the line between the toilet and the top of the vented loop (or if there is no vented loop in the system, between the toilet and tank, if it's uphill to the tank) WILL run back downhill. But, if your toilet is more than a few years old, there is another possibility: it just doesn't have the "ooomph" to push it over the top of the loop any more. Any manual toilet that's working anywhere near factory specs can move waste at least 6 linear feet or 4 vertical feet in the dry mode...but over time seals and o-rings wear out, reducing efficiency--which why toilets should be rebuilt every few years...but eventually, the inside of the pump cylinder also becomes so scratched, scored and worn that rebuilding no longer does much good. So your problem is due to one of two causes: 1. not pumping long enough in the dry mode...or 2. your toilet is so worn that it couldn't push all the water over the top of the loop if you pumped it all day. However, even if you do pump long enough and the toilet can do it, there'll be a little water left to run back downhill, but there shouldn't be more than about an inch in the bowl. The condition of the joker valve only determines how FAST it flows into back into the bowl...if it hasn't been replaced in at least a couple of years, the slit isn't a slit any more, it's a hole that'll let water pass through it quickly. But even a brand new joker valve won't block slow seepage. From your comments, it doesn't sound like the water is running back into the bowl immediately--that it's taking a while to do it--so your joker valve seems to be in at least decent, if not good, shape. Btw...why'd you look on the Raritan site for info about a Groco toilet???
Yes, there SHOULD be a vented loop in the system if the toilet flushes overboard, and it is in the right place. I suspect you aren't flushing long enough in the dry mode, so the water that's left in the line between the toilet and the top of the vented loop (or if there is no vented loop in the system, between the toilet and tank, if it's uphill to the tank) WILL run back downhill. But, if your toilet is more than a few years old, there is another possibility: it just doesn't have the "ooomph" to push it over the top of the loop any more. Any manual toilet that's working anywhere near factory specs can move waste at least 6 linear feet or 4 vertical feet in the dry mode...but over time seals and o-rings wear out, reducing efficiency--which why toilets should be rebuilt every few years...but eventually, the inside of the pump cylinder also becomes so scratched, scored and worn that rebuilding no longer does much good. So your problem is due to one of two causes: 1. not pumping long enough in the dry mode...or 2. your toilet is so worn that it couldn't push all the water over the top of the loop if you pumped it all day. However, even if you do pump long enough and the toilet can do it, there'll be a little water left to run back downhill, but there shouldn't be more than about an inch in the bowl. The condition of the joker valve only determines how FAST it flows into back into the bowl...if it hasn't been replaced in at least a couple of years, the slit isn't a slit any more, it's a hole that'll let water pass through it quickly. But even a brand new joker valve won't block slow seepage. From your comments, it doesn't sound like the water is running back into the bowl immediately--that it's taking a while to do it--so your joker valve seems to be in at least decent, if not good, shape. Btw...why'd you look on the Raritan site for info about a Groco toilet???
I was searching for an answer to my problem
and google tirned up a link to this question on the Raritan site. -Smitty
and google tirned up a link to this question on the Raritan site. -Smitty
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