For the last few weeks, I've been shopping for data cable to connect my handheld remote to my tillerpilot. Both devices plug into sockets installed in convenient bulkheads at two different locations on the boat. The data cable wires the two sockets together behind the scenes. The terminals in back of the sockets have set screws, so wiring is a snap once the cable is run. However, the owner's manual points out that cable was not supplied with the remote because "installations vary" so they can't be expected to know how much cable to put in each box. That's fair enough, especially since the tone of the owners manual also suggested that unfinished data cable is readily available. Well, I called four large marine supply houses and none of them stocked the stuff (known as "SeaTalk cable"). However, they all sold premade Seatalk cords with molded plugs on the ends. These are designed to quick-connect to data ports on various and sundry marine electronic devices. Prices ranged from about $27 for a 3 ft cord to about $30 for a 10 ft cord. All I wanted was unfinished cable. The salespersons all suggested that I buy a premade cord and cut the ends off. I politely declined. Then I called the tillerpilot manufacturer, figuring that if anyone had this cable, it had to be them, right? Well....after going through the catalog several times, the very helpful tech support person finally admitted defeat and suggested that "maybe the best thing to do is buy a premade cord and cut the connectors off". In other words, pay about $25 for two connectors which I didn't need and two to five dollars for the piece of cable I DID need! Aaagh!! A co-worker suggested calling a local electronics/military surplus house. Wow!! They had the data cable and yes, it was marine-grade. Price for ten feet? A buck twenty. I'd post a link to their website, but I don't know if that would be considered as advertising. Peter H23 "Raven"
"I'll take marine wiring for two hundred, Alex"
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Pennywise
Reminds me of my exwife who would drive around all week and burn up a tank of gas to save $10 on a pair of shoes.
Reminds me of my exwife who would drive around all week and burn up a tank of gas to save $10 on a pair of shoes.
SeaTalk cable and wiring
I have used the following Belden cable for extensive SeaTalk and NMEA wiring on two boats: Belden 8451 010(BLK) Description: Shielded PVC Miniature Audio Sound & Control Cable - 1 22 AWG Twisted Pair .025" (0.32 sq. mm.). Beldfoil(R) Shielded. I purchased it from You-Do-It Electronics in Needham, MA (I can't remember if it was $29 or $59 for 100 ft) but I'm sure it is a very common cable and available elsewhere. Now here's the deal, SeaTalk cable has three conductors (two + shield). The SeaTalk color code is red: +12 volt, yellow: data bus, and shield wire (they call it grey): ground. The SeaTalk data rate is rather low (I think it is approx 4800 baud) so the specs on the cable are not at all critical. Any shielded, twisted pair cable should work. We can argue about marine rating, but I think that's a lot of hype, and any good quality tinned conductor cable should be fine. The important thing is to seal the ends to stop moisture from wicking up the cable. I used an adhesive filled heat shrink on each cable end. I was unable to find a red/yellow twisted pair cable to meet the Raymarine color code. The Belden cable is red/black. I simply decided that black would be the data bus. The Belden cable has an aluminum foil shield AND an uninsulated 22 AWG stranded ground wire. I slipped a very small diameter heat shrink tube over the ground wire at each end and shrunk it on. Just tear off the aluminum foil. The terminals on the ST60 instruments are a standard (but sometimes hard to find) small spade connector. Not the usual size from West Marine. (I just looked all over my workshop to get a description - can't find my package of them). You-Do-It has them - if anyone is interested I could stop by over the weekend and get a part number. Another thing that Raymarine does not tell you is that you do not have to "daisy-chain" SeaTalk instruments from one to the next. The data bus uses what is called a "wired-or" or pull-down architecture, and the two SeaTalk connectors on each instrument are simply connected together internally. All you have to do is connect all the red (+12v) wires together, all the grey (shields) together, and all the data bus (yellow - in my case black) wires together. You can wire them in a star configuration with all connections at a central point, or in any combination of daisy-chain and parallel connection. In my case I daisy-chain the ST60 Tri-Data, Wind, and the autopilot remote socket, and then bring that cable to a a common connection point with the autopilot and the ST60 Multi. Hope this helps and doesn't confuse the issue, Derek
I have used the following Belden cable for extensive SeaTalk and NMEA wiring on two boats: Belden 8451 010(BLK) Description: Shielded PVC Miniature Audio Sound & Control Cable - 1 22 AWG Twisted Pair .025" (0.32 sq. mm.). Beldfoil(R) Shielded. I purchased it from You-Do-It Electronics in Needham, MA (I can't remember if it was $29 or $59 for 100 ft) but I'm sure it is a very common cable and available elsewhere. Now here's the deal, SeaTalk cable has three conductors (two + shield). The SeaTalk color code is red: +12 volt, yellow: data bus, and shield wire (they call it grey): ground. The SeaTalk data rate is rather low (I think it is approx 4800 baud) so the specs on the cable are not at all critical. Any shielded, twisted pair cable should work. We can argue about marine rating, but I think that's a lot of hype, and any good quality tinned conductor cable should be fine. The important thing is to seal the ends to stop moisture from wicking up the cable. I used an adhesive filled heat shrink on each cable end. I was unable to find a red/yellow twisted pair cable to meet the Raymarine color code. The Belden cable is red/black. I simply decided that black would be the data bus. The Belden cable has an aluminum foil shield AND an uninsulated 22 AWG stranded ground wire. I slipped a very small diameter heat shrink tube over the ground wire at each end and shrunk it on. Just tear off the aluminum foil. The terminals on the ST60 instruments are a standard (but sometimes hard to find) small spade connector. Not the usual size from West Marine. (I just looked all over my workshop to get a description - can't find my package of them). You-Do-It has them - if anyone is interested I could stop by over the weekend and get a part number. Another thing that Raymarine does not tell you is that you do not have to "daisy-chain" SeaTalk instruments from one to the next. The data bus uses what is called a "wired-or" or pull-down architecture, and the two SeaTalk connectors on each instrument are simply connected together internally. All you have to do is connect all the red (+12v) wires together, all the grey (shields) together, and all the data bus (yellow - in my case black) wires together. You can wire them in a star configuration with all connections at a central point, or in any combination of daisy-chain and parallel connection. In my case I daisy-chain the ST60 Tri-Data, Wind, and the autopilot remote socket, and then bring that cable to a a common connection point with the autopilot and the ST60 Multi. Hope this helps and doesn't confuse the issue, Derek
Info for Rick
The store is called Skycraft Parts and Surplus and their URL is www.skycraftsurplus.com. They have an entire department just for wire. Peter H23 "Raven"
The store is called Skycraft Parts and Surplus and their URL is www.skycraftsurplus.com. They have an entire department just for wire. Peter H23 "Raven"
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