Ideas to reinforce outboard bracket for trailering

[azsailing]

Hi All,
I am totally sick of taking my Nissan 9.8 long shaft on and off my mac 26s every time I trailer, so I am looking for ideas or options on how to reinforce the outboard to make it trailerable. I currently have an adjustable bracket, which I really do enjoy (better turning radius with the tiller, ability to quickly raise the motor in shallow waters). However, candidly, I would rather go back to mounting straight onto the motor well, if it meant I could trailer with the motor on. Below, I have a picture of my current set up and one idea of how to reinforce the bracket. I would love opinions, as I really don't want my outboard to tear a hole in my stern on the freeway

-Oh in case you are wondering, I just have the stock trailer, so the trailer doesn't extend far enough to the stern to be useful in providing support.

Thanks in advance for any input.

John


My Current Set Up:

Plan A:
This would use a combination of a transom saver saver support bracket from below (roughly drawn in red) and a harness that I would strap to the stern railing above (roughly drawn in purple).

For the stern saver, I was thinking something like Amazon.com: Attwood SP-400-RB Adjustable Transom Saver, 23 to 35 Inches, Composite Head Holds Engine, Roller and Trailer Mounts : Everything Else, which in my case would attach to the stern, rather than the trailer.

For the strap, I was thinking something like . In my case, it would obviously hoist at an angle forward to the stern rail, rather than straight up. https://www.amazon.com/EasyLift-Outboard-MotorTote-Heavy-Duty/dp/B075THF8FR/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=outboard+hoist+harness&qid=1661568583&sprefix=outboard+hoi%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-3s & Outdoors

Plan B: Would involve ditching the outboard bracket and remounting on the motor well. That would put the outboard in a much better place use the Motor strap and attach to the stern railing.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Like someone said eons ago: "Just Don't."

Freeway?!? What are you thinking? Even if you're only going between one exit and the next, at least consider the driver(s) behind you!

I believe it is absolutely stupid to trailer a boat with an outboard motor while it is still ON IT on a freeway. I don't care how tired you are of it.

Get a lighter outboard.

PS - I trailered our C22 for four years from SF up to Clear Lake, on a blinkin' freeway. NO WAY would I have considered having the outboard ON the transom. YES, for the three city blocks from our storage yard to th launching ramp: Never removed it.

NOT a good idea if you go on a freeway.

 

[Tedd]

Is the bracket the motor's on really worth the trouble? I had the motor mounted directly to the transom on my 26S and didn't remove it for towing.

 

[JoeWhite]

I decided to take the outboard off of my H25.5 when trailering when the bracket broke as I pulled into my drivrway.

 

[rgranger]

I think a Tohatsu 6 would be big enough but... to answer your question. On my Mac 22 (that I no longer own) I would take a heavy tow strap and loop it around the cockpit winch, then back around the motor, then around to the other winch and I would ratchet it up until most of the weight is on the winches. The nylon strap is a little flexible and will absorb most of the shock loads.

 

[AndyVS]

I have a Merc 9.9 with a 25" shaft mounted on a bracket and leave it on all the time. The bracket is heavy duty, sized for the 4 cycle motor weight and I mounted 1/8" aluminum backing plates inside the hull. I normally slip on a small lake nearby but once or twice a year pull the boat to take on vacation to northern MI, usually a 250 mile trip one way. When we're on Lake Michigan or Lake Huron and the swells pick up, the Mac can be like a hobby horse and it's great to drop the bracket down to keep the prop and water intake in the water. My previous motor had a 20" shaft and it would not stay in the water all the time. I lost the impeller and jeopardized both passengers and boat, not fun. Having the motor on a bracket allows the motor to rotate much farther than if it's mounted in the well. That control is great when pulling into a tight slip with a crosswind and a very expensive boat next to you with the owner watching . When trailering, I run a 3/8" dock line first from one stern cleat behind the motor mount to the other cleat, snug it up tight, then run it back behind motor to original cleat (cleats also have backing plates). I've read where some owners run the line up to the winches. I've been doing these trips for 6 years and never an issue. I inspect the inside (also the hoses and clamps to the cockpit drains) of hull each spring. Inside the boat, I load everything of weight into the bow so I get the proper tongue weight.

 

[Giro]

When I restored my MacGregor 25 I bought a new Honda 9.9 to replace the Honda 7.5 I previously had and, because it is a “monster” to raise and lower when underway, I had the boatyard attach a block and tackle system on the motor cover and the stern rail.
I’m fairly sure that the same type of system could be used to secure the motor while your vessel is being trailered. Therefore, the system could be used in a double capacity.

 

[AndyVS]

I purchased my mount at the same time as the new motor. The mount needs to be rated close to the motor weight. My motor weighs 105 lbs and the mount is rated for 150lbs. Mine comes up and down relatively easy.

 

[Thaniel]

Can that bracket be adjusted more so the engine is closer to the transom? There is quite a big moment arm there.

Things to consider:

• The bracket's strength
• How well is it attached to the boat (might need some reinforcement of the transom)
• Weight balance of the boat/trailer.

I trailered with the motor on the back of my boat but due to weight balance had to move lots of other things forward to get it to have enough tongue weight to not sway.

 

[Thaniel]

Like someone said eons ago: "Just Don't."

Freeway?!? What are you thinking? Even if you're only going between one exit and the next, at least consider the driver(s) behind you!

I believe it is absolutely stupid to trailer a boat with an outboard motor while it is still ON IT on a freeway. I don't care how tired you are of it.

Get a lighter outboard.

PS - I trailered our C22 for four years from SF up to Clear Lake, on a blinkin' freeway. NO WAY would I have considered having the outboard ON the transom. YES, for the three city blocks from our storage yard to th launching ramp: Never removed it.

NOT a good idea if you go on a freeway.

Yah watch next time you are at the boat ramp and see all those power boaters pulling off those super heavy 190 HP+ motors. What are you thinking trying to travel with that 9.9 hp on there Obviously it CAN be done. The question was what has to be strengthened to do it.

 

[Giro]

Sometimes we have to rely on the knowledge and skills of the “experts” we pay to execute certain projects we choose to have done by said experts.
The block system I described in my previous post was designed by the marine engineer employed by the boatyard I mentioned and was installed by boatyard staff.
I have always been a proponent of taking on jobs that I feel confident I can accomplish. However, projects I believe should be executed by licensed professionals for safety, are ones I gladly pay for (like this one).

 

[Benny17441]

Well, the motor weighs the same when in the water as it does in the air. The dampening effect of the water and hull tames some of the vertical acceleration forces, and on the trailer it is the suspension and tires that provide a comparable dampening. Would not recommend going offroad but see no problems in fairly well maintained roads. I personally do not have any qualms with trailering with the motor on the motor mount but I do tie a line to prevent the adjustable arm from accidentally releasing. I had an experience during a storm where the boat was hobby horsing so bad I thought the 75 lbs. engine was going to be ripped off. The fact that it held unscathed showed me how strong that mount really is. My concern would be trailer balance. Most of the weight of the load on the trailer must be in front of the axle to prevent sway. Placement will affect the tongue weight. You need to make your own choice taking into consideration the rating and condition of your mount and the weight distribution in your trailer.

 

[azsailing]

Is the bracket the motor's on really worth the trouble? I had the motor mounted directly to the transom on my 26S and didn't remove it for towing.

I am starting to feel the same way. Not sure it is worth it, if I keep taking the motor on and off.

 

[azsailing]

Thanks everyone for the responses. Sorry, to post and not respond, I got tied up with work. At this point, I am leaning towards mounting directly into the motor well, for a little more security when trailering, but it will likely be an off season project. I like the point about backing plates. I appreciate your point Stu, but I have to side with Thaniel on this one. I see a ton of other boats trailering with outboards on them, many of them heavier than mine on a similar looking bracket. I just want to find a safe way to do it. Regardless, thanks for the input.

 

[rgranger]

I know I posted this before but here is a diagram of what I was trying to say

This will translate all of the stress to the winches and they are designed to take a lot more stress than the bolts on your motor mount. Also, the strap absorbs a lot of the shock loads.

Put the loop on one winch... and then cinch it up on the other.

 

[Tedd]

Not sure it is worth it, if I keep taking the motor on and off.

I certainly wouldn't put up with that. Taking the motor off to tow a boat is just silly.

 

[THECUSCUS]

it would be a good idea to add a backing plate for your motor mount. The factory just had a piece of plywood glassed into the transom in the area where the mount would go.
[URL="https://forums.sailboatowners.com/media/mount.18496/"][/URL]

 

[Leeward Rail]

I know I posted this before but here is a diagram of what I was trying to say

View attachment 208914
This will translate all of the stress to the winches and they are designed to take a lot more stress than the bolts on your motor mount. Also, the strap absorbs a lot of the shock loads.

Put the loop on one winch... and then cinch it up on the other.

What @rgranger suggests is more or less exactly what many people do, with good success. I have seen it done using cleats, but the winches are stronger.

Worked great on our C22, with both the 15hp 2 stroke Merc and the 6hp Tohatsu replacement. We used 2 ratchet straps run forward, and tightened until there was no movement in the motor.

The triangle configuration, with lines to port and starboard is important. Just running a line/sling vertically wouldn't be as effective.