Is 4" really necessary?? It seems the insulation on really good portable coolers is much much thinner and they only cost $50-60. I've asked before but the project looms ever closer and I'm still wondering how much insulation is really necessary. I've got the Adler barbour big unit and need to insulate the box. They say 4" is required but will leave hardly any volume left. Has anyone used less with reasonable results?? I'm going through 16 pounds of ice a day in a 1983 Catalina with 1" insulation on two sides and none on the rest of the box. Gotta switch over soon as my arms are getting longer from carrying ice every day!!
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Have you looked at any alternatives?
Dave: Have you looked at the possibility of using either spray foam around the existing box or putting on some rigid or fiberglass around the box. Basically there is NO way you are going to get 4 inches of insulation around the box anyway. Their calculation are for optimum performance. You just need to do whatever you can to make it more efficent. The other thing, you are going through 16 lbs. of ice per day. I assume that this is cube ice? Have you tried block ice? Depending on how much money you are willing to spend, they make the vacuum panels too. These panel are expensive but are suppose to provide tremendous insulation in just a single 1 inch panel.
Dave: Have you looked at the possibility of using either spray foam around the existing box or putting on some rigid or fiberglass around the box. Basically there is NO way you are going to get 4 inches of insulation around the box anyway. Their calculation are for optimum performance. You just need to do whatever you can to make it more efficent. The other thing, you are going through 16 lbs. of ice per day. I assume that this is cube ice? Have you tried block ice? Depending on how much money you are willing to spend, they make the vacuum panels too. These panel are expensive but are suppose to provide tremendous insulation in just a single 1 inch panel.
Suggest Using Spray Foam
Unfortunately the access to the outside of the built-in ice box is generally very limited. However, from a useability and resale standpoint I'd recommend adding insulation to the outside of the box. A good job that is professionally done will improve the saleability of the boat. A project that looks like a do-it-yourselfer will detract from resale. To add foam to the outside use only "closed-cell" foam which is available at West Marine and other places. Don't use homeowner type foam. Caution: the spray foam can/will expand for several days after it is applied while it goes through it's curing process; therefore, don't just squirt it in randomly. Access to sides of box: This is a really difficult part. In some places you will probably have to drill holes through the cabinetry but obviously this will have to be in places where it isn't normally visible, such as behind a stove or drawer. Heat loss: The greatest heat loss will be where there is no/very little insulation, such as where there is poor access for adding more insulation. Let's say you can't add insulation to ten percent of the area. Even if you add, say, 4-inches to the rest of the box there will still be a lot of heat loss through that small 10-percent portion, so, try to get coverage where ever you can. Carrying ice is no fun and running the engine to charge the batteries isn't good either. It's sure nice to have something cold to drink though so try to make the right decision and do the work properly - it'll add to the value of your boat and your fun.
Unfortunately the access to the outside of the built-in ice box is generally very limited. However, from a useability and resale standpoint I'd recommend adding insulation to the outside of the box. A good job that is professionally done will improve the saleability of the boat. A project that looks like a do-it-yourselfer will detract from resale. To add foam to the outside use only "closed-cell" foam which is available at West Marine and other places. Don't use homeowner type foam. Caution: the spray foam can/will expand for several days after it is applied while it goes through it's curing process; therefore, don't just squirt it in randomly. Access to sides of box: This is a really difficult part. In some places you will probably have to drill holes through the cabinetry but obviously this will have to be in places where it isn't normally visible, such as behind a stove or drawer. Heat loss: The greatest heat loss will be where there is no/very little insulation, such as where there is poor access for adding more insulation. Let's say you can't add insulation to ten percent of the area. Even if you add, say, 4-inches to the rest of the box there will still be a lot of heat loss through that small 10-percent portion, so, try to get coverage where ever you can. Carrying ice is no fun and running the engine to charge the batteries isn't good either. It's sure nice to have something cold to drink though so try to make the right decision and do the work properly - it'll add to the value of your boat and your fun.
space blanket
Purchase one of those cheap space blankets, they look like aluminum foil, cut out a square the size of the inside of the icebox. Lay it over the ice and food inside the box, this will limit the cooling to the lower portions of the box.
Purchase one of those cheap space blankets, they look like aluminum foil, cut out a square the size of the inside of the icebox. Lay it over the ice and food inside the box, this will limit the cooling to the lower portions of the box.
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