OK. So I have a new to me ODAY 28. Love it. The previous owner left a lot of records, but no mention of the antifouling paint he was using. The bottom is in very good shape, nice and smooth, so no worries there. Doesn't look like much build up. My question is how compatible are the different bottom paints? So what happens if I use Interlux over Petit, the newer Interlux Biolux formulas over the traditional Interlux, or a copper based paint over traditional bottom paint. OK, here is the real question. Has anyone put VC17 over traditional bottom paints? Any success? Any regrets?
I love your bottom
- Thread starter dennisv
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I don't think you want to put a hard paint over an ablative paint. But you can put an ablative over a hard paint. Shouldn't be a problem putting a hard paint over any other hard paint. Just lightly sand and wipe down with a solvent to get all the dust off and then paint. If it is an ablative you should use another ablative or strip it off.
An ablative paint will be obvious, you'll be able to cut it with your fingernail.
A harder epoxy based paint won't budge when you scrape it with your fingernail.
VC17 should go over, Interprotect (or similar 2 part primer/barrier) or over gelcoat... and should really have a VERY smooth surface to work with. It's very thin, and thefore will NOT fill in imperfections.
Ablative over ablative will work in just about any climates... You can even put ablative over VC17.
Just some recent experience with this (before):
After
A harder epoxy based paint won't budge when you scrape it with your fingernail.
VC17 should go over, Interprotect (or similar 2 part primer/barrier) or over gelcoat... and should really have a VERY smooth surface to work with. It's very thin, and thefore will NOT fill in imperfections.
Ablative over ablative will work in just about any climates... You can even put ablative over VC17.
Just some recent experience with this (before):
After
Here's the Interlux compatibility chart. You can call them with any questions and their tech guys will help you out.
http://www.yachtpaint.com/LiteratureCentre/antifouling-compatibility-chart-usa.pdf
http://www.yachtpaint.com/LiteratureCentre/antifouling-compatibility-chart-usa.pdf
I just put VC17 over my boat yesterday. I'm in the exact situation as you, new boat and no idea what was there. I thought I had to remove the old paint based on what the internet said so I spent weeks sanding, tried some paint stripper (didn't work as advertised). When all was done I had a fairly smooth surface of multiple colors (grey, blue, black). I realize I was not sanding the low spots on the hull. When it was finished, I could see a few chip spots on the old paint that I didn't fully sand out but it looks great. My advice is to sand the top layer off until you have a firm surface and then paint. On my boat, the top layer just flew off in a big cloud of dust from the sander. That layer must have been very porous.
For sanding I did most of it with a 5 inch orbital sander using 60 grit. I started with 80 grit but it was taking too long so I switched to 60. Go to Home Depot and buy the 50 pack for $20. Later I tried my mouse sander using 80 grit and I liked it a whole lot better because it is much lighter then the 5 inch orbital though it doesn't cover as much area.
For sanding I did most of it with a 5 inch orbital sander using 60 grit. I started with 80 grit but it was taking too long so I switched to 60. Go to Home Depot and buy the 50 pack for $20. Later I tried my mouse sander using 80 grit and I liked it a whole lot better because it is much lighter then the 5 inch orbital though it doesn't cover as much area.
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