I broke a plastic fitting

[Ross]

While I was winterizing the boat this past weekend I broke a plastic fitting from seacock to head water hose. No flood, just a need to replace. Copper is my first choice for such as this and I don't recall why I put cpvc in there. Anyway I just put together a copper replacement brazed with Harris "Blockade" alloy.
http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/consumables/alloys.asp?id=31
For those who have any skill in soldering copper pipe you will love this alloy. It flows at a dull red heat and is nearly as strong as the copper pipe. It was developed for the air conditioning/rerigeration industry but it is a very good substitute for silver solder. With flux it will join copper and copper alloys. While not recommended for ferrous metals I have made thumb screws with 1/4 inch bolts and nickels.
The first pix is after a bit of buffing with scotch brite, the second is as it came out of the cold water quench.

 

[Ross]

The pix wouldn't post as an edit so I will try this.

Edit to add: this isn't working tonight and I am going to bed.

 

[gettinthere]

copper below the waterline with seawater flowing in it?
Isn't that a no-no?
Shouldn't you be using bronze instead of copper?

 

[Ross]

Well bronze is a copper alloy and copper nails are the preferred method for fastening wooden boats so I believe that copper will endure.

 

[Ross]

Another try at posting pix

 

[Maine Sail]

Silicon Bronze, which is what is used in seacocks, is quite a few steps more noble than is copper so in that situation it is quite possible the copper will be the anodic metal. It's still going to be ,better than CPVC as you found out, or yellow brass. I have seen some prety nasty galvanic stuff over the years so I try not to mix metals bellow the waterline.

If you have bronze seacocks the ABYC recommends that all metals be of the same material and not a mix of metals as one will always be the more anodic and one the more noble.