This thread covers the 19, 23.5, 240, 26, and 260 water ballast Hunter sailboats. I am not sure about the 27 Edge water ballast.
If water is seen flowing from the transom inside the boat down the middle hull to the underneath of the rear berth, determine first it is not the lower rudder gudgeon. If not it is coming in between transom hull to deck joint generally beneath the rub rail. You need on the 240 transom to remove the rub rail. First remove the black cover plate next to the swim ladder on the starboard side. Make a few small pencil marks or use tape on the rubrail and rubrail base so you know where the rubrail goes when reinstalling the rub rail Pull out rubrail from the Base and then unscrew the base If you see a crack between the hull to deck joint, then you found your leak. Also check for tightness when taking screws out.
The hull lip to deck lip joint which is 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide is filled with marine putty. To remove the cracked putty, use a dremel with a small round ball to remove the old putty down to the fiberglass hull and deck lips. Then sand lightly the lips. Fill the area with a two part epoxy called WaterTite by Interlux. Let it dry overnight. You may have to do several applications. I would then spray paint a white plastic paint on the repaired area by krylon with several coats. Mask off the area first.
Take the rubrail base and predrill for the screws previously taken out. Caulk liberally around the predrill holes and screw threads with 5200 and then screw the base into place. Let it curet for five days. . Then install the rubrail insert. To do this, you will need to install the bottom in first and then the top. You will need either a putty knife or a flathead screwdriver to guide the top edge to lock the rubrail into the base
The boat needs to be out of the water. Ensure the wingnut and adjustable bail under the bottom step are not leaking either.
If water is seen flowing from the transom inside the boat down the middle hull to the underneath of the rear berth, determine first it is not the lower rudder gudgeon. If not it is coming in between transom hull to deck joint generally beneath the rub rail. You need on the 240 transom to remove the rub rail. First remove the black cover plate next to the swim ladder on the starboard side. Make a few small pencil marks or use tape on the rubrail and rubrail base so you know where the rubrail goes when reinstalling the rub rail Pull out rubrail from the Base and then unscrew the base If you see a crack between the hull to deck joint, then you found your leak. Also check for tightness when taking screws out.
The hull lip to deck lip joint which is 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide is filled with marine putty. To remove the cracked putty, use a dremel with a small round ball to remove the old putty down to the fiberglass hull and deck lips. Then sand lightly the lips. Fill the area with a two part epoxy called WaterTite by Interlux. Let it dry overnight. You may have to do several applications. I would then spray paint a white plastic paint on the repaired area by krylon with several coats. Mask off the area first.
Take the rubrail base and predrill for the screws previously taken out. Caulk liberally around the predrill holes and screw threads with 5200 and then screw the base into place. Let it curet for five days. . Then install the rubrail insert. To do this, you will need to install the bottom in first and then the top. You will need either a putty knife or a flathead screwdriver to guide the top edge to lock the rubrail into the base
The boat needs to be out of the water. Ensure the wingnut and adjustable bail under the bottom step are not leaking either.
