I have developed a leak in my skylights (4). I purchased the Hunter 35 Legend last year and the problem was supposed to have been resolved by a marine repair shop. They simply laid the panels in a bed of silicon. Well, after one year the leaks are back. Does anyone have a solution for this? Much appreciated!
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There's lots of info..
.. in the archives about this problem. Do NOT fix it with silicone!! I can't remember the name of the stuff, but if you contact Hunter they'll let you know. It's a pretty simple fix, but you need to use the correct sealant.
.. in the archives about this problem. Do NOT fix it with silicone!! I can't remember the name of the stuff, but if you contact Hunter they'll let you know. It's a pretty simple fix, but you need to use the correct sealant.
The Trick Is In The Gap!
Be careful taking the skylights out - they will break easily! Bump-Ons: Hunter used what they call "bump-ons" under the edge of the skylights - small self-adhesive plastic squares about 1/2" square by about a 1/16" thick. Depending on how you remove the skylights the bump-ons could get damaged so ask for some at the same time you order the sealant. Screw Holes in Lexan: Ours is a H-35 of the approx '86 to '88 or '89 vintage and we have screws in milk-white Lexan. The 35.5 came with smoke Lexan or Plexiglass and as I recall they didn't have screws - but I could be mistaken. If they had screws they probably blended in with the dark color where as on mine they are quite obvious. Based on chasing leaks on mine, many if not most of the leaks came from the screws. Drill the holes out larger (yup!) to get more contact between the screw shank and the side of the Lexan. The original holes didn't allow for any clearance and consequently there is no way to put sealant in between hence the leak. This goes counter to common sense. Believe it or not, more clearance is actually better. Edge Joint: Then there is also the edge joint detail to change using baker rod and bumb-ons. Sealant should be placed at the butt-edge of the skylight as it is supposed to act like a thick rubber band. There should be no sealant under the skylight where the skylight rests on the coach roof as this defeats the elastic design of the bead. Black sealant is more UV resistant than white and I think looks better than the white. Mask off the edges to get a uniform width. Dow 995 Sealant: I used Dow 995 which is an "industrial" sealant that back in '97 was not available to unlicensed installers but I believe today it is. This is the same stuff that holds windows in skyscrapers! Go to the Dow site and download their Technical Data Sheet. See link below or use this URL: http://www.roancorp.com/dowspecs/dowcorning995.pdf Rough up the fiberglass a bit, where the sealant is to adhere, with some sandpaper. Ensure there is a crack between the Lexan and the fiberglass of AT LEAST 1/4 inch. This is much less than the specs call for but it should suffice depending on the temperature extremes. To prevent sealant from oozing down to the space where the bump-ons are I put in a foam "backer rod" as a filler material. Used 1/2-inch diameter and cut it in half with a sheetrock knife and squeezed it into the crack. Fixed my skylights several years ago (around 1997) after doing battle with them for many years and they've only required one vist since for two screws and the the couple drips were so minor they never made it into the cabin. Never even leaked on my Alaska trip and you're talking major precip there. Can even pressure wash them! A dry boat is a good boat! -= John Nantz =- Hunter "Legend" 35 S/V Servus (also, a f-a-s-t boat is a good boat!)
Be careful taking the skylights out - they will break easily! Bump-Ons: Hunter used what they call "bump-ons" under the edge of the skylights - small self-adhesive plastic squares about 1/2" square by about a 1/16" thick. Depending on how you remove the skylights the bump-ons could get damaged so ask for some at the same time you order the sealant. Screw Holes in Lexan: Ours is a H-35 of the approx '86 to '88 or '89 vintage and we have screws in milk-white Lexan. The 35.5 came with smoke Lexan or Plexiglass and as I recall they didn't have screws - but I could be mistaken. If they had screws they probably blended in with the dark color where as on mine they are quite obvious. Based on chasing leaks on mine, many if not most of the leaks came from the screws. Drill the holes out larger (yup!) to get more contact between the screw shank and the side of the Lexan. The original holes didn't allow for any clearance and consequently there is no way to put sealant in between hence the leak. This goes counter to common sense. Believe it or not, more clearance is actually better. Edge Joint: Then there is also the edge joint detail to change using baker rod and bumb-ons. Sealant should be placed at the butt-edge of the skylight as it is supposed to act like a thick rubber band. There should be no sealant under the skylight where the skylight rests on the coach roof as this defeats the elastic design of the bead. Black sealant is more UV resistant than white and I think looks better than the white. Mask off the edges to get a uniform width. Dow 995 Sealant: I used Dow 995 which is an "industrial" sealant that back in '97 was not available to unlicensed installers but I believe today it is. This is the same stuff that holds windows in skyscrapers! Go to the Dow site and download their Technical Data Sheet. See link below or use this URL: http://www.roancorp.com/dowspecs/dowcorning995.pdf Rough up the fiberglass a bit, where the sealant is to adhere, with some sandpaper. Ensure there is a crack between the Lexan and the fiberglass of AT LEAST 1/4 inch. This is much less than the specs call for but it should suffice depending on the temperature extremes. To prevent sealant from oozing down to the space where the bump-ons are I put in a foam "backer rod" as a filler material. Used 1/2-inch diameter and cut it in half with a sheetrock knife and squeezed it into the crack. Fixed my skylights several years ago (around 1997) after doing battle with them for many years and they've only required one vist since for two screws and the the couple drips were so minor they never made it into the cabin. Never even leaked on my Alaska trip and you're talking major precip there. Can even pressure wash them! A dry boat is a good boat! -= John Nantz =- Hunter "Legend" 35 S/V Servus (also, a f-a-s-t boat is a good boat!)
Cut the old ones out with fishing line.
A great way to remove the old sky lites is to make a small hole in the sealant. Fish a piece of high test fishing line through so it can be attached to a stick on both ends. Be sure to remove the screws. With two people you can just pull the fishing line around the perimiter of the skylite and out they come. You can purchase the sealant and a video from Hunter Marine.
A great way to remove the old sky lites is to make a small hole in the sealant. Fish a piece of high test fishing line through so it can be attached to a stick on both ends. Be sure to remove the screws. With two people you can just pull the fishing line around the perimiter of the skylite and out they come. You can purchase the sealant and a video from Hunter Marine.
I fixed mine earlier this year
I replaced mine on my H35 earlier this year. They were easy to do. I have had no leaks since. Here's the steps I followed. 1. Remove and discard the old skylights. One of the main source for leaks is around screw holes in old skylights. First take out screws. Then I just popped them out from below with a gently wedged screwdriver. Two of the four skylights cracked. I expected this. 2. Completely remove the residue left by the old sealant. First just use a plastic scraper to get rid of big chunks. It helps to put a tarp down below to catch the bits that fall...minimizing cleanup. Second remove remaining residue (visible and invisible) using a Dow Corning spray solvent OS-2 and rags/more scraping. OS-2 is available from Neely Industries 800-242-1483, www.neelyindustries.com, $7.50/can. 3. Set new skylight in place; center with shims. The new skylights are smoke plexiglass and are available from Hunter Marine (small skylights $62.50 each; large skylights $72.50 each). Parts department at 800-771-5556 extension 3015 and speak to Mike Thomas. 4. Apply sealant to gap (sealant is Dow Corning 739 adhesive, $7.44 each, available at same place as above). Smooth with finger and cleanup smears with OS-2. Allow to cure. I did not screw the new skylights down, per recommendation of another reader of this site and it has appeared to work excellently. Have been through major rains here in Annapolis since April and the boat's stayed dry down below. -Rich
I replaced mine on my H35 earlier this year. They were easy to do. I have had no leaks since. Here's the steps I followed. 1. Remove and discard the old skylights. One of the main source for leaks is around screw holes in old skylights. First take out screws. Then I just popped them out from below with a gently wedged screwdriver. Two of the four skylights cracked. I expected this. 2. Completely remove the residue left by the old sealant. First just use a plastic scraper to get rid of big chunks. It helps to put a tarp down below to catch the bits that fall...minimizing cleanup. Second remove remaining residue (visible and invisible) using a Dow Corning spray solvent OS-2 and rags/more scraping. OS-2 is available from Neely Industries 800-242-1483, www.neelyindustries.com, $7.50/can. 3. Set new skylight in place; center with shims. The new skylights are smoke plexiglass and are available from Hunter Marine (small skylights $62.50 each; large skylights $72.50 each). Parts department at 800-771-5556 extension 3015 and speak to Mike Thomas. 4. Apply sealant to gap (sealant is Dow Corning 739 adhesive, $7.44 each, available at same place as above). Smooth with finger and cleanup smears with OS-2. Allow to cure. I did not screw the new skylights down, per recommendation of another reader of this site and it has appeared to work excellently. Have been through major rains here in Annapolis since April and the boat's stayed dry down below. -Rich
Not that easy of a job
I replaced the galley-side fixed portlight on my 35.5 and I have to say it was not a fun project. First off, getting the old out was pretty easy, but, cleaning all the old Dow adhesive out was a pain(used acetone and sandpaper). Then the actual replacement is stressful challanging because you want the finished seems to look good while also sealing and bonding correctly. As others mentioned, the bump-outs are critical along with a good masking job, and laying out the right quanity of Dow 739. If you use too much you get excessive squeeze out and mess, too little and you may get leaksfailure. I don't look forward to replacing the rest of my side portlights after the experience with the first one, even knowing what will work better the next time!
I replaced the galley-side fixed portlight on my 35.5 and I have to say it was not a fun project. First off, getting the old out was pretty easy, but, cleaning all the old Dow adhesive out was a pain(used acetone and sandpaper). Then the actual replacement is stressful challanging because you want the finished seems to look good while also sealing and bonding correctly. As others mentioned, the bump-outs are critical along with a good masking job, and laying out the right quanity of Dow 739. If you use too much you get excessive squeeze out and mess, too little and you may get leaksfailure. I don't look forward to replacing the rest of my side portlights after the experience with the first one, even knowing what will work better the next time!
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