Hunter 49 - Windows - Top of Saloon

Feb 15, 2008
186
Hunter 49 Sydney
The Hunter 49 has a a couple of large fixed windows in the Saloon roof. They have been quietly leaking for too long and multiple attempts to get one out has failed. So now Im looking at using a Fein SuperCut tool to try and cut from the inside what I assume is a layer of Sikaflex between the glass and the recessed deck.
So my question is, does anyone know:

How thick these are ?
Exactly what they are made of ? incase I break one
As they don't exactly look clear is it a tint coating or imbedded, does it have UV coating etc.
What would be the best product when I put it back (Im assuming Sikaflex but which one) to seal it up again.

Hopefully you get that at this moment Im trying to do it properly or if there is room to improve then do it better.
 
Jan 4, 2006
6,515
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
So now Im looking at using a Fein SuperCut tool to try and cut from the inside what I assume is a layer of Sikaflex between the glass and the recessed deck.
I don't think you want to do that OR your fixed hatchlights are different from anything I've ever seen on other Hunters at boat shows. If your leaks are small, take a look here and you can repair the leak rather than replace the entire hatchlight.


See post #2.
 
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Likes: JamesG161
Jun 1, 2009
1,751
Hunter 49 toronto
The Hunter 49 has a a couple of large fixed windows in the Saloon roof. They have been quietly leaking for too long and multiple attempts to get one out has failed. So now Im looking at using a Fein SuperCut tool to try and cut from the inside what I assume is a layer of Sikaflex between the glass and the recessed deck.
So my question is, does anyone know:

How thick these are ?
Exactly what they are made of ? incase I break one
As they don't exactly look clear is it a tint coating or imbedded, does it have UV coating etc.
What would be the best product when I put it back (Im assuming Sikaflex but which one) to seal it up again.

Hopefully you get that at this moment Im trying to do it properly or if there is room to improve then do it better.
Hi
I have written a post on how to effortlessly remove the windows without cracking them.
If you want to PM me, that’s fine.
 
Feb 15, 2008
186
Hunter 49 Sydney
Yep Ok sounds like a great approach. Thanks I should be fine with that. Just need to get myself setup with cups and some decent sealant.
 
Oct 12, 2023
1
Hunter 50 Hel
Can anyone tell me what type of material, thickness and light transparency should be used when replacing these windows? Unfortunately, in my case I have to replace the windows because they have a lot of internal spider-like cracks and they also leak.
 
Jun 8, 2004
267
Hunter 49 60803 Lake Erie
I took mine out using Art's approach it worked easy on one and took a little cutting on the edges from underneath to get the 2nd one to pop out.
 
Jun 1, 2009
1,751
Hunter 49 toronto
I took mine out using Art's approach it worked easy on one and took a little cutting on the edges from underneath to get the 2nd one to pop out.
I’m glad this worked for you. The method I figured out of lifting the windows, rather than prying them, is far easier. Furthermore, the chances of cracking the windows from localized stress doesn’t occur. What I can say as well is that the process is very controllable, and the progress of lifting the window is something you can easily see as it progresses
Getting back to the sealant
The first time I did this, I went with Dow 795.
When I did it a second time, I switched to Sikafkex. The Sikafkex & primer is considerably more expensive, but I think it gives a better bond. I don’t think this is a time to be looking at cost savings, versus what’s better for years to come.
I can understand that when you have a factory full of boats that production costs are critical. But, during a window re-bedding, I think the overall reliability is more important.