Hunter 49 Interior Photos Favor

[T J Furstenau]

Reaching out to my fellow H49 owners for a favor. Looking for someone in a warmer climate than I who is either on their boat, or close to their boat, to possible grab a couple of photos and/or measurements for me. Unfortunately for me, I'm almost 2 hours from my boat, which is currently covered up and probably under snow on that cover. What I'm looking for is this -

• A few pictures of the light switches for the main salon and cabins with either a measuring tape for scale or just separate measurements (if you're handy enough and willing, pics with the switches open removed would be awesome) On mine, which I believe is stock, the cabins are simple paddle/flip switches and the main salon has the integrated dimmer.
• A picture or two, and a measurement (or two or three), of the space/depth ABOVE the round main ceiling lights.

Why do you ask? The winter project I undertook was to redo the interior lighting, moving to LED and having the ability to change colors (white/red/???) I pulled one of the current fluorescent fixtures out as my template to rebuild/redesign them. I am using the existing stainless trim rings but have reprinted the plastic housings to accommodate the new round LED circuit boards. And then I am using an Arduino Nano that I've programmed at each switch to control the lights (on/off/color/brightness). Just want to confirm that I have enough space for the circuitry at the switches, as well as the new lights with the required buck converter (to step the boat's 12V down to 5V for the LED).

Was hoping to have everything printed and circuit boards soldered up before I head back to the boat, so it's just install mode, but not confident enough without the measurements to put it all together yet. Worst case, as soon as I get a break in the weather and a free weekend, I may make the drive up. I'd like to lay eyes on her anyway. Why build them from scratch rather than just buy them off the shelf you ask? Because I needed 10 and for what I was looking at, "marine" lights were running $80-$180/ea, and by the time I'm done I'll have learned a few new skills and should be in for less than $30/ea. And they will look completely stock. AND, since I've programmed them, I can do whatever I want - white lights? red lights? blue lights? party lights?

Regardless, when it's all said and done, I will try to do my best to follow in Art's footsteps and provide a write up with pictures. Also, happy to make the 3D print files available, as well as the code that I'm loading to the Arduinos. Feel free to post the pics here or send them directly to me at tjfurst at gmail.com

Thank you, thank you!! And only 43 days until the marina re-opens!

T J

 

[artboas]

Reaching out to my fellow H49 owners for a favor. Looking for someone in a warmer climate than I who is either on their boat, or close to their boat, to possible grab a couple of photos and/or measurements for me. Unfortunately for me, I'm almost 2 hours from my boat, which is currently covered up and probably under snow on that cover. What I'm looking for is this -

• A few pictures of the light switches for the main salon and cabins with either a measuring tape for scale or just separate measurements (if you're handy enough and willing, pics with the switches open removed would be awesome) On mine, which I believe is stock, the cabins are simple paddle/flip switches and the main salon has the integrated dimmer.
• A picture or two, and a measurement (or two or three), of the space/depth ABOVE the round main ceiling lights.

Why do you ask? The winter project I undertook was to redo the interior lighting, moving to LED and having the ability to change colors (white/red/???) I pulled one of the current fluorescent fixtures out as my template to rebuild/redesign them. I am using the existing stainless trim rings but have reprinted the plastic housings to accommodate the new round LED circuit boards. And then I am using an Arduino Nano that I've programmed at each switch to control the lights (on/off/color/brightness). Just want to confirm that I have enough space for the circuitry at the switches, as well as the new lights with the required buck converter (to step the boat's 12V down to 5V for the LED).

Was hoping to have everything printed and circuit boards soldered up before I head back to the boat, so it's just install mode, but not confident enough without the measurements to put it all together yet. Worst case, as soon as I get a break in the weather and a free weekend, I may make the drive up. I'd like to lay eyes on her anyway. Why build them from scratch rather than just buy them off the shelf you ask? Because I needed 10 and for what I was looking at, "marine" lights were running $80-$180/ea, and by the time I'm done I'll have learned a few new skills and should be in for less than $30/ea. And they will look completely stock. AND, since I've programmed them, I can do whatever I want - white lights? red lights? blue lights? party lights?

Regardless, when it's all said and done, I will try to do my best to follow in Art's footsteps and provide a write up with pictures. Also, happy to make the 3D print files available, as well as the code that I'm loading to the Arduinos. Feel free to post the pics here or send them directly to me at tjfurst at gmail.com

Thank you, thank you!! And only 43 days until the marina re-opens!

T J

Hi
I have a very good idea for your interior lights

PM me
Arthur

 

[Screen Saver]

Hi, Yea ya probably three weeks late for me. However I thought I would share some general info that might be helpful.
Yep Im in Ozy now typicaly though further north between +-8 degress.
In reference to the original fluro lights, the inverter inside normally dies and I have had them fixed many times over the 15 years. I move partly to Leds & original fluro combo for while as a make shift measure that ended up being a couple of years.
For those that don't know the existing fluros are powered all the time and not from the switch. Each fluro has 3 wires, plus minus and control. All the dimmer switch does is raise and lower 12v on the control switch. The Dimmer is NOT Vimar product as per all the other switches, or if it is Vimar that don't recognize it.

I was not looking for as much sophistication as TJ is. Essentially my fluros were now beyond repair and the swithc has had worn through the bezel. VImar could provide a new one.

So I moved to these LED's replaced all 6, they drop into the Chrome fitting, now mounting required, thought they are not snug, but they wont fall out.LeisureLED 5 Pack RV Boat Recessed Ceiling Light 480 Lumen Super Slim LED Panel Light DC 12V 4.75" 6W Full Aluminum Downlights, (Neutral/Natural White) : Amazon.com.au: Automotive
Sadly only 5 so I bought 2 lots, and I will use them throughout.

I wanted to move to touch dimming to I bought Ulincos Touch Switch UT19T1 Stepless Dimming Switch DC 6V to 24V Blue LED Suitable for 19mm 3/4" Mounting Hole : Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement

Each LED light draws about 0.6amps full brightness. So total load is about 3 amps for all 6 full brightness. The touch swatch is rated well above this, so it should be fine.

You can chose to get the above switch in different forms with or without its own lamination which draws under about 0.06

This has only be installed for a week, but so far it works just fine.

I removed the original dimmer from its housing and for the moment simply cut a whole to fit in where the dimmer was. Assuming it continues to function I will make up a tinted Perspex Bessel and slowly migrate to all touch dimmer able. It will not be as per original for sure, but you cant repair the dimmer Bessel nicely.

In reference to measurements in the original post. There is 70mm from the front of the Vimar switch to the left hand side of the fridge which is behind the switch. However when I first poked my tape measure in there it went for ever, and it actually went across the top of the fridge. So essentially the top half of the switch has nothing in its way. The bottom half of the switch has a gap of 70mm as noted.

Hope it helps.