Hunter 460 Padeye installation
- Thread starter Soldout2sailing
- Start date
I have padeyes installed there port and starboard used for asym or spinnaker. Came with the boat, factory installed.
Is there an update to this thread? Is there a backing plate molded into the fiberglass or did you make your own backing plate?
I can confirm there is a backing plate there. I added padeyes for my asymmetrical in the exact same location. There are access plates below int he aft cabins, it was still a bit of a PITA to get the washers, lock washers and nuts on dues to the small access but it's very doable. One warning: make sure you bed it in plenty of sealer to prevent leaks and tighten it thoroughly. Also, do to the area below, drill as far inboard as your padeyes allow so you have room for a good sized washer to lay flat, too far outboard and you could have the washer bind up where the fiberglass curves downward.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 24,453
That is not a "backing plate". It is an embedded plate beneath the surface fiberglass skin. It was designed for use as a flat surface to attach hardware. This design allows you to drill and tap the embedded plate.
The type of hardware you choose must consider the types of loads you plan to apply to the deck.
If you are going to install hardware that needs a "Backing Plate" to disperse heavy loading forces, then you may want to consider drilling through the deck, putting your backing plate beneath the deck.
I’d like to help a bit here. I installed tracks for my Genoa on the 49, and there were aluminum plates in the deck.
Here are some very important ruies
If you are not totally proficient with drilling and tapping holes into aluminum, hire someone who has done this professionally. It’s easy to break a tap in aluminum, and a broken tap in your deck is a nightmare problem
So, assuming you are up to this…
Purchase excellent quality taps and tapping fluid. You are going to be tapping (most likely) 1/4-20
Get a drill guide, which ensures you are drilling dead square to the deck
Make sure that the aluminum plate is indeed bonded into the Fiberglas.
Look up the tapping drill size.
Using the guide, drill a hole one size smaller than the tap size
When you are drilling, ensure that there is proper lube oil on the drill. WD 40 is no appropriate.
Have a shop vac on deck.
Once you drill the pilot, vacuum out the hole.
Now, carefully, (with lube on the bit), drill the tap size. Then vacuum out the hole agsin
Take a counter sink, and slightly counter sink the Fiberglas, This will give the 4200 sealant a good place to start sealing the hole.
Now, get a drill bit which is clearance size for the bolt you will be using. You want to drill just deep enough to remove the Fiberglas. You want a clearance hole in the glass, and tapping only the aluminum
Now, using a good quality T tap handle, load up the tap with tapping grease.
Very slowly, start to tap, and keep backing the tap out, and vacuum the hole every time you extract the tap.
Take your time, and ensure you are tapping dead square to the deck. The aluminum is likely 6061-T6, which can get “sticky” when hand tapping. Just take your time, and be very careful not to break the tap.
Once you’re totally through, vacuum well again.
When you install the hardware, wipe the whole surface with acetone first. Use 4200 to seal everything .
hope this helps
This is excellent advice. I would use BedIT butyl tape instead of 4200 however. 4200 has a limited lifespan, especially when exposed to UV. BedIT has only failed on me when I didn't apply it properly