I have a 2003 Hunter 44 DS and we live aboard. Tonight I cleaned and dried the bilge. Within a few seconds I noted that there was a small amount of water seeping into the bilge from under one of the six keel bolts. We sail the vessel often and have never, as far as I'm aware, ever hit anything to damage the keel. I'd like to know if this is normal (which it probably isn't)? What, if any, regular maintenance should I be performing on the keel bolts? I try very hard to keep a dry bilge and do use a wire brush to clean off rust and grease the bolts. Do I need to have the boat hauled out and inspected/fixed or can I just tighten that one keel bolt and seal it? I checked the archives and read what was posted but I'm still confused, and a tad worried. Thanks.
Hunter 44DS Leaky Keel Bolt
- Thread starter SailingSue
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No big worry
Don't get too stressed out on this. It happens sooner or later to most boats, and it is easily fixed. You can go to a boat yard and have them tighten the bolts. They will use a torque wrench and tighten it to Hunter's specs. It will take no longer than a few minutes. This will last you until the next time you haul the boat. When you haul it out, the boat yard people can loosen the keel a bit, examine the cause, clean out the seam where the keel meets the hull, repair it and put it all back together again. No biggie, but it sure sounds scary though.
Don't get too stressed out on this. It happens sooner or later to most boats, and it is easily fixed. You can go to a boat yard and have them tighten the bolts. They will use a torque wrench and tighten it to Hunter's specs. It will take no longer than a few minutes. This will last you until the next time you haul the boat. When you haul it out, the boat yard people can loosen the keel a bit, examine the cause, clean out the seam where the keel meets the hull, repair it and put it all back together again. No biggie, but it sure sounds scary though.
I agree
I agree with JC. I have the same problem on my 28.5 and I posted several related questions, got many answers, and read many arcival post. I am doing what JC suggest. We tigntened the bolts and just a little dampness that drys up is left. Next time the boat is hauled out I will have the keel to hull seam fixed. there are many post on ways to do this so you might want to investigate. don't be scared by the dooms dayers. boatworks magazine from earlier this yeat has an article. You can order back issues on line.
I agree with JC. I have the same problem on my 28.5 and I posted several related questions, got many answers, and read many arcival post. I am doing what JC suggest. We tigntened the bolts and just a little dampness that drys up is left. Next time the boat is hauled out I will have the keel to hull seam fixed. there are many post on ways to do this so you might want to investigate. don't be scared by the dooms dayers. boatworks magazine from earlier this yeat has an article. You can order back issues on line.
Big Washer
Buy the biggest stainless flat washer you can find. Coat the bottom with Life Caulk. Replace the exsisting washer where the leak is with this big gooped up washer and tighten ...this should hold you untill haul out time. Tighten all the other keel bolts you can reach also. If this doesn't work, it time to head to the boatyard.
Buy the biggest stainless flat washer you can find. Coat the bottom with Life Caulk. Replace the exsisting washer where the leak is with this big gooped up washer and tighten ...this should hold you untill haul out time. Tighten all the other keel bolts you can reach also. If this doesn't work, it time to head to the boatyard.
A really big wrench socket
The comment about the really big washer reminded me about the wrench. I forgot to mention that because the keel bolts are so big, you will need a really big honkin' wrench socket. Most people don't own one, that is why I suggested going to a boat yard. If you have a big socket, terrific. Just don't over tighten. Good luck.
The comment about the really big washer reminded me about the wrench. I forgot to mention that because the keel bolts are so big, you will need a really big honkin' wrench socket. Most people don't own one, that is why I suggested going to a boat yard. If you have a big socket, terrific. Just don't over tighten. Good luck.
JC is right, no big deal, but there are some...
considerations. Have you confirmed that it is salt water coming in and the source is from the keel bolt? Build a dam around the bolt and nut just to make sure. It is very unlikely that an undisturbed keel stub joint leaks...but it can. Have you talked to Hunter Marine about any kind of warranty coverage? Rather than try to fix the leak from the inside, you need to fix it from the outside. Our joint was sealed by the factory with epoxy, I think. I suspect yours was, too. So, something has compromised the joint seal to cause it to leak. A yard repair might (emphasis on might) cost around $2,000 or more depending on what they find. They will have to lift the boat off of the keel, clean the joint, rebed and then rejoin the keel to the stub joint. Another way is to cut away a groove in the joint seam and reapply a joint compound like 3M 5200. This might work and would probably (emphasis on probably) cost less. This could be a do-it-yourself repair. Terry
considerations. Have you confirmed that it is salt water coming in and the source is from the keel bolt? Build a dam around the bolt and nut just to make sure. It is very unlikely that an undisturbed keel stub joint leaks...but it can. Have you talked to Hunter Marine about any kind of warranty coverage? Rather than try to fix the leak from the inside, you need to fix it from the outside. Our joint was sealed by the factory with epoxy, I think. I suspect yours was, too. So, something has compromised the joint seal to cause it to leak. A yard repair might (emphasis on might) cost around $2,000 or more depending on what they find. They will have to lift the boat off of the keel, clean the joint, rebed and then rejoin the keel to the stub joint. Another way is to cut away a groove in the joint seam and reapply a joint compound like 3M 5200. This might work and would probably (emphasis on probably) cost less. This could be a do-it-yourself repair. Terry
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