Hunter 41AC/41DS spinnaker tack location

[MFD]

Hi All,
This topic came up again for me on another forum where a gentleman is considering installing a torsion line spinnaker system off the stainless bow assembly on a Hunter 36(? I believe).

Anyway, my Hunter 41DS did not come with the spinnaker option and I installed the Selden CX/GX system some years ago. I rarely use it, maybe a half dozen times the last few years so not a good spend of money on my part!

Anyway, the topic on the other forum was about the upload forces on that assembly. Particularly with a torsion line system in place.

With a combination of both caution and laziness, I never did install a 2:1 system for tensioning. For furling, it definitely needs a lot! Like as much as you can get off the small port-side cabin top winch and then probably some more would be good!

I also do not have, and do not plan, to use a full code-zero type sail. Rather I purchased a sort of reacher type chute used that was in good shape and we have things setup GX style where the tack is typically above
the pulpit and often higher when heading deeper down.

We super-tension the torsion line when preparing to furl. Again, caution on my side about shock loads,
etc. while underway.

Anyway - I am curious for those of you that have 41AC/DS model boats that were factory or dealer equipped with things for regular spinnaker usage
- where does your tack attach on the bow stay/anchor assembly?

I ended up drilling an additional hole, with things lead inside the pulpit. Again, concerned about upwards leverage on the assembly.

 

[sail sfbay]

Not a Hunter 41AC/DS with a fractional rig, but my Hunter 386 fractional rig topdown furler tack was attached to the anchor roller ahead of the jib halyard so anti-torsion cable cleared the jib halyard without fouling and head halyard swivel bar to mitigate mast abrasion by the anti-torsion cable.

 

[Sailor Arny]

Added a Selden retractable bowsprit, and GX15 top down furler with line aft on my H44C. I have no purchase on my downhaul at all, just cleat it off where I want it. I have never seen concerning stress or issues with furling and flown in wind past what I should have. The bow sprit gets it out front nicely. It is a bit to put in the bag, takes up a lot of room when not hoisted which is a big negative.

 

[MFD]

BTW - a recent thread to a manual for the 41DS that shows the tack line going through the port side (shorter) anchor roller, as somebody else (hunter, different model0 here had mentioned their boat was setup with.

 

[flightlead404]

Not a Hunter 41AC/DS with a fractional rig, but my Hunter 386 fractional rig topdown furler tack was attached to the anchor roller ahead of the jib halyard so anti-torsion cable cleared the jib halyard without fouling and head halyard swivel bar to mitigate mast abrasion by the anti-torsion cable.

I am now using this setup. I used it a fair bit (couple dozen times maybe at least) over the last 8 or 9 months.

1. I used a halyard shackle to attach the bottom of the furler to a hole already extant in the center part of the bow roller assembly (dual roller). I think it might be intended for a retention pin for the anchor which I don't use. A snap shackle might be a better option if you think you may need to get it off quickly.
2. Regarding getting it on and off quickly, its unlikely honestly as you'll be reaching far over the bow pushpin and its not comfortable and would be dangerous in anything over a light chop tbh
3. Think about where the fairleads for the furling line (continuous?) need to go. The drum will likely be at a pretty good angle to the deck and you may not have a good location, or the location may prevent the anchor locker being opened while in place. I made up some small Amsteel soft shackles, but that's a temp solution, I'm going to fabricate something.
4. Regarding 2 and 3, that means you'll be installing/removing the spinnaker/furler assembly, furling line, and its fairleads at anchor or the dock. Find a place to clip off the spinnaker halyard that doesn't chafe against the spreaders or anything else (don't ask how I learned that one doh!)
5. Make sure you have a way to prevent the furling line from moving to prevent inadvertant deployment.
6. These things are a bugger to use. I purchased sail sfbay's unit. I cursed it a lot. In fact, for the first half dozen or more uses it was not really a top down furler, in fact it's still not a top down furler, but it's at least a furler now. I was just an automatic back wrapping device.
7. More tension on the torsion cable (at least for this crappy CDI designed unit) is not the answer. You don't need massive tension on it. When I learned to ease it off a bit it made furling easier. Its not something really doable single handed either, crew needs to ease the sheet fairly rapidly but in concert with you furling, keeping the sail luffing juuuuuuuust the right amount so you get a good wrap without big bubbles or backwraps, takes practice.
8. Get some breakable yarn (thanks for the tip Steven) and tie a half dozen around the furled sail to keep it together and help prevent accidental deployment and keep the sail nice and tight before you need it.
9. Sailing to wind with the sail up but not deployed is doable but it will cost you several knots as it spoils the wind over the jib

The CDI design I have is an early entry to the marketplace and I hope designs have improved. Honestly mine is a poor design, for example relying on the supposedly low drag of delrin bushings instead of having a proper bearing in place. Of course, that low friction property of delrin does away when any tension is put on it. I'm considering modifying the top part and milling it out to accept a proper tapered roller bearing instead.

I find it much easier to gybe the sail around in front of the boat that furling/unfurling or chicken gybe. I head off to 120-140, ease the sheet till its luffing a good amount, then start furling rapidly while my wife continues to ease the sheet.

fwiw idk why the term "anti-torsion" cable is used. This is, in fact, a torque or torsion cable. It is intended to transmit the torque you apply at the furling drum up the length of the cable. imo the "anti" is improperly used.

 

[Sailor Arny]

I am going to go without the furler this season, just pull it down into a deck bag, tired of all the furler rigging, and as you point out not very easy to furl anyway. Half the time when I go to unfurl and use it is backwrapped anyway and requires a trip on deck to tug and unfurl. My Selden pole is retractable so its very easy to get to the tack, then push it out where I want it. The back can unclip and it tilts up to allow anchor locker access if needed, or can be quickly removed. From what I have read about spinnaker socks they have there own issues. Due to the frac rig the spinnaker is not very big anyway so hoping simple = easier.

 

[flightlead404]

I am going to go without the furler this season, just pull it down into a deck bag, tired of all the furler rigging, and as you point out not very easy to furl anyway. Half the time when I go to unfurl and use it is backwrapped anyway and requires a trip on deck to tug and unfurl. My Selden pole is retractable so its very easy to get to the tack, then push it out where I want it. The back can unclip and it tilts up to allow anchor locker access if needed, or can be quickly removed. From what I have read about spinnaker socks they have there own issues. Due to the frac rig the spinnaker is not very big anyway so hoping simple = easier.

not having the back wrap is all about the furlong technique. Either way you’ll need at least one other pair of hands to get it in. Personally having had to get it in a couple of times without the furler I still think it’s easier. Practice a bunch in lighter winds lol

I am no expert just have recently climbed that learning curve