Hunter 40.5 windless

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May 10, 2009
12
Hunter 40.5 Lake Texoma
Well I messed up an tried to pull my anchor loose with windless - I know dumb...
Now all I get is a clicking sound at the windless (in the anchor rode locker) when depressing the foot switches (also in the anchor rode locker)...I checked the "hoist" breaker in the battery locker, and I reset the breaker on the control panel at the Nav Station...no luck. What am I missing, or what have I done? Any ideas?

Capt Steve
 
Last edited:
Feb 10, 2004
4,096
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
Well, Steve, it sounds to me like the brushes or the armature in the motor got toasted when the motor stalled under the high load. It is also possible that the reversing solenoid contacts have failed from high current and heat. The solenoid is the device producing the clicking noise.

If you have one of the Simpson Lawrence windlasses like the Anchorman 1000, the original motor was made by a French company called Leroy Somer. The motor is known for its problematic brushes and poor reliability. Couple that with a gross overload when pulling an anchor, and you have a likely opportunity for a failure.

If you have a different windlass, the problem is still most likely the brushes or the armature, but you may not have the pre-disposition of the motor for failure.

Either way, you are looking at removing the motor for either replacement or service or replacing the solenoid.

Here is how to troubleshoot-

Remove the fiberglass panel inside the vee berth so you can access the windlass and the solenoid (see picture below). The reversing solenoid is a large relay that has four large connecting studs and three small connections. The small connections are wired to the foot switches and those circuits are obviously working because you hear the clicking of the solenoid.

The battery wires are both connected to two of the heavy studs and the motor wires are connected to the other two studs. The job of the reversing solenoid is to connect the battery to the motor with one polarity to raise the anchor and the opposite polarity to drop the anchor.

If you place a voltmeter across the two studs that are connected to the motor, and have someone operate the foot switches, you should measure about 12V at the motor studs. Depressing one foot switch will cause one polarity of voltage and depressing the other switch will cause the polarity to change. If you observe this action, then the solenoid is most likely OK. If you do not measure any voltage at the motor studs when the solenoid clicks, then the solenoid is toast.

If the solenoid is good and you have voltage at the motor studs, then the motor needs to be removed for service or replacement.

If you have a Leroy Somer motor I would recommend replacement with a different manufacturer. If you have a motor manufactured by someone else, I would take the motor to an electric motor repair shop for evaluation and repair.

I have a source I can recommend for a replacement motor for the Leroy Somer if that is what you have. The vendor is in the UK and the motor with DHL air shipment will cost about $450. Email me from the Hunter owners directory if you need the contact info for this vendor.

BTW, after rebuilding my Leroy Somer motor twice and still having failures, I replaced my motor several years ago and now have flawless operation.
 

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Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,182
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
Now that's what I call real help!
 
C

CaptSteve

Thanks Rich - really appreciate you taking the time to replay (and with such detail). Good sailing

Capt Steve
 

kebr

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Jun 26, 2009
43
Hunter 40.5 New Buffalo, MI
Very timely question. I am having the same problem. I bought my 40.5 last year and knew the windless was working. I just started looking at it and it has the same symptoms.

I think I traced my problem to the breaker. I am only getting .3V going into the solenoid, which is the same as the output of the breaker. The input on the breaker is 13V. I tried resetting the breaker this weekend, but no luck. It is a round red button with 135 on it and won't budge in or out. It has Texas Instrument stamped on the back, but that is all I could see, without taking it all the way off. In searching the internet for the breaker, I was saw a review of a similar one by Maxwell, that someone said was very difficult to push or pull. I was wondering if anyone has had a similar experience?

I did not look too closely at the motor and don't remember which one it is, but my windless is a vertical configuration with only one direction, as opposed to opposed to Rich's setup.

Thanks for the excellent info Rich.

Ken
 
Feb 10, 2004
4,096
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
The red button type breakers require quite a bit of effort to push in and reset. I have one on my genset that "clicks" when pushed pretty hard.

However, if you are actually getting only 0.3V out of the breaker when the solenoid is energized, then the breaker is bad. Be sure that you are measuring from the output of the breaker to battery return. Alternately you could measure across the breaker connections and when the windlass is energized you should have a very low voltage- ideally zero, but certainly less than 0.2V.
 

kebr

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Jun 26, 2009
43
Hunter 40.5 New Buffalo, MI
Thanks Rich. I'll check those measurements. I pushed on the breaker hard this weekend and thought it would break (no pun intended), but couldn't get it to move. I was thinking of by-passing it, but probably not the best solution. If it is the breaker, any recommendations on replacing it? I found one online by Klixon (6766-19-135) that looks like it might fit. Thanks.

Ken
 

kebr

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Jun 26, 2009
43
Hunter 40.5 New Buffalo, MI
Steve, I was able to get my windlass working today. It ended up being the breaker that I wasn't able to reset. The mounting hole was very tight. I took the breaker out and found out that it did work. I then filed the hole some so that there was more clearance to operate the breaker. I put the breaker back in, reset it and my windlass started working again.

I know that you said that you checked the breaker, but it wouldn't hurt to double check it. Turned out to be a simple solution for me anyways. Good luck.
 
Jun 9, 2004
963
Hunter 40.5 Bayfield, WI
Not that this will be a paticularly helpful comment but this reminds of what I saw a few weeks ago one day when we were at anchor at Raspberry Island. I saw a charter boat using the windlass to pull the boat up to the anchor. It made me shudder. I know it drives my husband crazy that I am so picky about using the windlass to bring in the rode and always make sure it is slack. Now I'm glad!
 
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