Hunter 37C Lithium Upgrade: Any experience?

Aug 27, 2025
14
Hunter 37C Bainbridge Island
My next task after new rudder and lower rudder bearing is to upgrade the boats electrical system. When purchased, the DC side was powered by a group 31 AGM start battery (110AH) in the starboard cockpit locker (suitable for the Yanmar 3JH3E) and a house bank made up of 4 T105s located in the bilge. Prior owner mounted positive and negative buss bars under the Galley sink, and then supplemental AC and DC distribution panels mounted on the side panel of the galley area next to the chart table. Many things I don’t like about this configuration, but I also want to go to lithium for my new house bank.

One of the thornier issues on the upgrade is locating the new batteries and supporting infrastructure. I’ve decided that the best location for the new AC/DC charger and isolation transformer will be under the chart table next to the original panel location. I can’t find any place on the port side of the boat to locate positive and negative buss bars or batteries. The location of the fuel tank under the quarterberth, and difficulty running larger grade wires through the aft cabin area are pushing me to the starboard side of the boat.

I’d like to get all batteries out of the cockpit locker just for accessibility reasons and to use that space for the myriad things that usually end up in cockpit lockers. In order to do that, the best location candidate looks like the space under the Starboard settee and aft of the starboard water tank. At a minimum, I would like to make this the location for a single 314AH Lithium battery with dimensions not much larger than a Group 31 (and it would fit). Then I‘m wrestling with keeping the start battery in the cockpit locker, and wiring the B to B charger between the two, and putting the buss bars in the space below the the top two galley drawers (losing the two bottom drawers) which are next to the engine compartment. This location was already modified by a prior owner who put a Red Dot heater in there and, in the process, cut away the liner under the drawer cabinet to run the thick inverter and alternator pos/neg wires under the stove and into the bottom of the galley sink. Battery switch would go back to the original location below the companionway.

Any H37C owners undertake this kind of upgrade? Where did you decide to place your new lithium battery(ies)? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for your input.
 
Jan 7, 2011
5,875
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
I don’t have a Hunter 37, but I switched to some LFP batteries last year…

My key takeaways…

1) Separate the house bank from the starter battery. I added a new battery switch and have the lead acid starter battery wired to the starter, not the original 1-2-both-off switch.

2) Get a charger for the LFP bank…that supports Lithium charge profile.

3) Find a way to charge the LFP bank… a dc-dc charger, solar, etc. My alternator is wired to my starter battery, and right niw, I can’t add power back into my LFP bank when motoring. Something I will solve at some point.

4) Paralleling Smart Batteries may be a bit of an issue. I had a hard time keeping 2) 100 Ah smart batteries “balanced “. In the end, I returned them.

5) I am now evaluating a WattCycle 314Ah Bluetooth Mini. It has a smaller footprint than the 2) 100Ah batteries I tested last year and it packs the energy of a 3rd battery in the same footprint. I really like this battery. It passed the capacity test (got 318 Ahs out of it on my bench).

Consider something like the 314Ah battery if you have space. Eliminates the need to parallel several 100 Ah batteries and saves some space.



Greg
 
Aug 27, 2025
14
Hunter 37C Bainbridge Island
Thanks Greg. We are definitely thinking along the same lines. Some components I’ve settled on:

1. I ordered the Wattcycle 314Ah mini. This will be my house bank, replacing the 4 T-105s currently in the bilge. Crazy, but got it for $369 + tax and free shipping. I’ve decided it will live in the compartment under the starboard settee and aft of the water tank. This compartment has several hoses running through it: Bilge pump hose, freshwater supply lines, and water tank fill, drain and vent. I’m going to re-route the bilge pump hose and galley freshwater supply lines to come up through the bottom of the sink cabinet.

2. Starter battery will be the AGM group 31 which came with the boat. It’s large enough (110Ah) to serve as an emergency house battery if something goes sideways with the lithium. It is a Northstar and advertised as a “dual purpose”, but with plenty of CCA and MCA for use as a start battery. Right now, I think it will stay in the starboard cockpit locker although I really would like it out of there. I just can’t find better location for it unless I go to the same space as the Lithium house battery.

3. For the AC/DC charger I went with a Pronautic 12-20P (3 bank, multiple chemistry charging options) which I’ve mounted under the chart table. No inverter or inverter/charger. Because this will be used only at the dock, I decided to get the 20 amp which is suitable for both the start battery and the house battery. It has “Global AC” capability so it can be plugged in to available shorepower world wide. I still have to purchase an isolation transformer to make that a reality beyond Mexico (where 240v is the norm).

4. Victron Orion XS 12-12 50 amp Dc/Dc charger. This will direct any alternator charging to the house battery via the start battery. 50 amps is appropriate for my 100 amp Balmar externally regulated alternator. This has a very small footprint and will either be located in the same compartment as the lithium house battery or in the space under the top two galley drawers.

5. Victron 712 battery monitor and smart shunt.

6. Blue Seas 5511e battery switch (wired as described by Greg).

I really like the modular Victron Lynx 1000 Distributor +/- buss bar system for tying everything together. The problem is where to locate it on the starboard side of the boat. It has a 12” x 7” footprint which would make it tight in the house battery compartment, so I may have to divide the buss bars for space reasons.

I hope to share the final placement/solutions and photos once I get things wired up.
 
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