I'm going to do as much work as I can this fall. So I'll be sanding and painting the bottom, changing the cutlass bearing. Plus one of the last recommendations of our purchase survey was to loosen then re-torque the keel bolts. I'm wondering what the torque specs are and what size are the bolts. Also I'm looking to buy a torque multiplier if needed to use with my torque wrench. Lastly how long of extensions will I need to reach. I'm 400 miles from where my boat is on the hard and I'd like to show up prepared. TIA
Hunter 376 keel bolts
- Thread starter pcmartin1200
- Start date
Rather that research all this info and buy extensions and whatever that you will probably never use again, why don't you just spend a hour of yard labor and have them do it? They should have all of the tools and experience of having done this before now. With your supervision of course. I don't know the answers to any of your questions, but here is a table of torque values that I believe that I got from Hunter. I would confirm this information before using.
Thanks for the chart. I'm thinking if I pay the yard I'll have to pay again next time. If I buy the tools I can do it as many times as necessary. I'm buy the tool to change the cutlass bearing since it is a more regular maintenance item. However, I don't know how often the keel bolts need re-torqed and I'm open to being made more knowledgeable.
Check with the Hunter expert on this site. I spoke to him about 2 years ago and asked about re-torquing the keel bolts. He told me that it was unlikely to be needed. Of course if you have had a keel event maybe that answer is different.
As for the cutlass bearing, I have changed it once in 22 years. Your money, your choice, but it only cost me 2 hours of yard labor to have them do it with the right tools and with their experience.
I am a confirmed DIYer, but I have limits.
As for the cutlass bearing, I have changed it once in 22 years. Your money, your choice, but it only cost me 2 hours of yard labor to have them do it with the right tools and with their experience.
I am a confirmed DIYer, but I have limits.
We bought this boat this spring and one of the things on the survey was "re-torque the keel bolts." It seems the General consensus is since there has been to keel strike, leave them alone and I'm leaning that way.
The cutlass bearing however does need to be replaced since it has play in it. The owners we bought it from said they replaced them every two years during the bottom jobs since it was already hauled out. I may just pay the yard this time and check it in two years during the next bottom job. Thanks to all for your information.
The cutlass bearing however does need to be replaced since it has play in it. The owners we bought it from said they replaced them every two years during the bottom jobs since it was already hauled out. I may just pay the yard this time and check it in two years during the next bottom job. Thanks to all for your information.
If your cutlass bearing is wearing out every two years, I would check the alignment. I replaced mine at least 7 years ago and I average 150 hours per year on my engine. Just my opinion.
Needing to replace the Cutlass bearing every two years - there is an alignment problem. How's the propeller shaft in that area? I'd sure want to know...
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I am either neglecting my boat or have been very lucky. I've had my 340 for 10 years, we take it out on the bay a couple times a week on average, and never even thought about tightening keel bolts or changing cutlass bearings. Probably put about 700 hours on the motor in that time.
The cutlass bearing is checked both up and down and side to side. There will be likely a bit more play up and down, but if either direction becomes more than 1/32" I would replace. Typically you can feel no play at all. IMHO you should be able to go easily 10-12+ years unless you have an alignment problem or you are putting a gazillion hours on the engine each year.
The cutlass bearing had a very slight movement detected during haul out for survey. The previous owner replaced it every two years at haul out when the bottom was repainted. This wasn't because it was bad, but as a preventative measure
As far as the keel bolts, that might just have been something to put on the survey which wouldn't hurt anything.
So based on the advice I've received, I'm having the cutlass bearing replaced and will check it whenever we dive to scrape the bottom. And I may or may not have the keel bolts re-torqed when the cutlass bearing is replaced.
As far as the keel bolts, that might just have been something to put on the survey which wouldn't hurt anything.
So based on the advice I've received, I'm having the cutlass bearing replaced and will check it whenever we dive to scrape the bottom. And I may or may not have the keel bolts re-torqed when the cutlass bearing is replaced.
Perhaps I'm not being clear. The previous owner changed the cutlass bearing every two to three years NOT because it was bad, he did it as a precaution since it was cheap and the boat was hauled anyway. The surveyor said he could feel a tiny bit of movement in the current bearing. I have not felt this movement but the boat is on hard and I have the cutlass bearing among the vast supply of spare parts that came with the boat, so why not. But I will also take my dial indicator with me and check run out on the shaft.
Your boat. Your choice.
When you change the cutlass, look at the shaft wear in that spot and, the bearing wear vs the new one.
That will tell you the rest of the story.
Jim...
PS: Unless you motor in a silty area, wear should be almost zero. If wear, shaft alignment.
Your boat, your choice. We purchased our 1991 boat in 2002 and have sailed her thousands of miles all over PNW waters in all kinds of weather. Her original cutlass bearing remains solid and a diver checks it each year and on the hard for re-doing the bottom every seven. Also, after re-bedding the keel in 2004, have yet to check the keel bolt torque, with no evidence to do so.