Hunter 37 Legend 1986 stanchions installation

Nov 1, 2017
14
Hunter 37 Legend Nanaimo
Hi All,

I am considering to add a stanchions to create side gate for boarding of the dock. Has anyone did it before? I am looking for any information/warnings and tips
Many thanks for any information.

Marek Jadczyk
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,947
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Hi Marek, if you would post a picture of an existing stanchion to help us offer an informed opinion. Different model here, but adding a stanchion to our boat would be fairly easy. This site sells stanchions. Perhaps they have what you need.
 
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Nov 1, 2017
14
Hunter 37 Legend Nanaimo
Hi Terry,
This is te best I have for the moment. I was wondering, how this stanchion is secured to deck. I bought this boat only few months ago, so I am not familiar with such installation just yet.
 

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Dec 25, 2000
5,947
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Hi Marek, I have a picture of a portion of one of our stanchions. Please let me know whether yours are similar or the same. The stanchion base is through bolted to the toe rail. The welded angled support feet are bolted (not machine screw) to a metal plate bedded in the FRP deck. What I do not know is whether the plate is just at the stanchion location, or whether it runs the length of the deck.

Boarding step1.jpg
 
Nov 1, 2017
14
Hunter 37 Legend Nanaimo
Terry,
I am not on my boat now, but from what I remember it looks identical. I will take close look when I get there in four weeks
 
Feb 2, 2006
470
Hunter Legend 35 Kingston
I have a 1987 Legend 35 (same basic design, construction, stanchions, etc.). I added a gate, but not by adding another stanchion.


What I did was

DECR - 2019 - Sambro Harbour_2019-08-05_0388.JPG

20190718_210314.jpg
  • modify the aft-most stanchion to add a angle support down to the deck in the forward direction. I had a machine shop do this, but there are 3rd party support that you can buy ... but these stanchions are tapered and might be hard to find a 3rd part "angle" support to fit.
  • I had to drill one additional hole through the toerail/deck/hull for the bolt for this angle support
  • Modify the life lines to have them run from the pulpit to this aft stanchion and terminate there with "eyes" on the aft side of the stanchion. This means just measure, cut and re-swage "eyes" to the after end.
  • re-feed the life lines from aft to pulpit and re-attach turnbuckles
  • Modify or create shorter life line lengths to run from the pushpit to these "eyes" using your desired type of pelican hook
Take a look at the picture and the circled red bits. In the picture, the "gate" is currently open and the aft life line section is lying on the deck, out of sight, against the toerail. The other picture is closer up and show the "eyes" and pelican hooks and angles support.

The result is a LARGE aft gate. I did it this way to avoid installing other stanchions and other such complications, but I really like the result and the larger gate opening. Coming into dock, rafting alongside, hopping down into the dinghy is much easier that a more traditional small gate.

The factory stanchions are through bolted into the toerail (easy to do and to add another hole), but the two angle supports at the bottom of each stanchion are bolted into aluminum backer plates embedded into the deck . There is no deck core immediately around these backer plates ( good ... avoids complications with leaky deck holes wrecking your deck core material.

To add a new stanchion, you would NOT have this embedded backer plate, so you would have to drill through your deck (oversized hole, filled with epoxy, re-drilled with correct sized hole, bedded, etc.) AND have access to the underside of this portion of deck because your would need your own backer plate (G10 or aluminum) and washers and nylock nuts. I know that for my boat, I would have access to the underside of the deck on my starboard side, but NOT on the port side and I would have to cut some sort of access port in the aft cabin liner to get at such a backing plate.

If you where to decide to do a more traditional (read smaller) gate, then the new stanchion and the existing one that makes up the other side of the gate will each need an angled support otherwise they will certainly get bent at some point.

Chris
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
Wal, I think the OP wants a gate on the beam, but is about the same job as yours.. I want to do that on my B323 because I raft a couple times a month and alot of the other boats only have gates on the beam. Otherwise, I have OEM gates at the cockpit, and I added gates on the bow because I slip at a finger pier. And, I believe what you refer to as the aft pulpit and pushpit: the pulpit is on the bow, the pushpit is the stern railing?
 
Feb 2, 2006
470
Hunter Legend 35 Kingston
Ron,

If you (or Marek) has specific requirement as to where the gate needs to be, then that will significantly dictate how you go about the project. But, the approach I took worked well for finger docks (unless it's a very short finger dock), and rafting with people who have gates just aft of center all the way to the back. If your rafting partners have mid/beam gates, then my "aft style" gate wont line up.

pushpit=aft pulpit

Cheers
Chris
 
Nov 1, 2017
14
Hunter 37 Legend Nanaimo
Chris, Ron, Terry
Thank you all for advice.
One of the reasons I have posted this question, was that I really do not want to make new holes in the boat unless I absolutely have to. Chris’s advice work for me as I have one more station at aft, as you can see on the picture, thus creating really nice gate.
I had no idea about these aluminum plates in the deck and I bet if want place a new station, there would be no plate available at this location, so it would not work anyway, or I would get myself in trouble.

Thanks to advice from all of you, I got my solution and avoided problems. I am going to create a gate similar to Chris’s.

Regards to all of you.
Marek