Hunter 37 C Cabin Sole.

[guidera48]

It is time to get the cabin sole plywood going. It is actually getting cooler and bearable inside the boat.

I see several of you have done this work and I need to know if 2 2x8 sheets will do it or I need to get 3 sheets to be safe.

Thanks

 

[Ed Schenck]

Are you just doing the salon and aft? Even then I think 4 x 8 would be a little short. If you also plan to redo the vanity area and/or the v-berth step then I think you will need three sheets.

Being lazy I solved the problem with "wall-to-wall" carpet.

 

[Richard Shelby]

I used Lonseal. $600 bought enough to do the entire sole. Easier than plywood and more durable. Heck, a plastic boat deserves a plastic sole.

before & after photos:

 

[joelvannorsdel]

Lonseal specific pattern name or ID?

I used Lonseal. $600 bought enough to do the entire sole. Easier than plywood and more durable. Heck, a plastic boat deserves a plastic sole.

before & after photos:

Just what pattern did you use from Lonseal. The picture looks great.

Thanks

 

[Richard Shelby]

lonwood

Just what pattern did you use from Lonseal. The picture looks great.

Thanks

I think it was the "72" . They will send you a free sample.
BY the way, I cut a pattern out of cheap vinyl flooring. After cutting the pieces from the pattern, the sole went down in 1 afternoon.

http://www.lonsealspecialty.com/lonwdteakholly.html#

 

[guidera48]

Thanks Ed.
I have also come to the conclusion that I will need 2 1/2 sheets to do it. World Panel has it at $175.00 a sheet. They also quoted me $88.00 freight to S.C. for 3 sheets of sole and 2 sheets of teak.
It's time to make sawdust.

 

[kair]

I used Lonseal also. It looks great and is easy to lay down.

 

[Ed Schenck]

H37C and Lonseal

Richard and "kair", did you apply the Lonseal over the teak veneer? Then is there a small "step" or edge where the grate sits over the bilge?

Did you remove trim around the galley and salon and cut the Lonseal to go under the trim? Hard to tell from the pictures but the result looks really good. Plasteak makes the same stuff and they are just a few miles from where I live. I could save the shipping cost I guess. http://plasteak.com/osc/index.php?cPath=1_30_75

 

[Rick D]

Re: H37C and Lonseal

Not sure to what you are referring. However, I was concerned about adding hight. It turned out to be no problem. It is really thin. And, yes, it is over the existing panels. I used chrome pulls to replace the holes to dress things up a bit. I added one quarter round teak molding for a more finished look at one small location.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Thanks Rick. Our "old" Hunters already have the chrome pulls however.
I was referring to the H37C sole. At the bottom of the ladder there is a grate over the bilge. In Richard's picture it looks like he did not attempt to cover that and then cut the holes. But one could do that I suppose. Quarter round is a great idea.

 

[Richard Shelby]

Ed: The Lonseal is about 1/8" thick, so the difference in the grate "dip" is not really noticeable. I only lightly sanded the old veneer just to help the adhesive. All the trim came up and went back afterward. I had to bevel the edges around the bilge boards so they came up easily. Also, I did not replace the sole in the head/vberth area, so I was careful to match the pattern so it does not attract the eye. Here's another photo

 

[jorge fife]

Cabin Sole

Ed: The Lonseal is about 1/8" thick, so the difference in the grate "dip" is not really noticeable. I only lightly sanded the old veneer just to help the adhesive. All the trim came up and went back afterward. I had to bevel the edges around the bilge boards so they came up easily. Also, I did not replace the sole in the head/vberth area, so I was careful to match the pattern so it does not attract the eye. Here's another photo

I have been following your postings from all of you gentlemen with H37's; mine is a H33, 1982 and I also needed help about the cover for the bilge pumps
On one side of the mast (?) it is a small square piece, but on the other side there is a long piece, covering the bilge; both pieces have an aluminium "T" shaped piece that goes all around.
I don't know where to find that piece(mine is broken), but is there an alternative?
And do you support it from under, so when you walk on it it does not bend/break/buckle, and you fall into the bilge?
Please advise best way, with a picture if possible
Surely not all of you have this piece, there are probably other alternatives
Thanks again

 

[Richard Shelby]

Jorge:

Sorry, nothing similar on the H37c. Sounds like a "custom fabrication" job.

 

[guidera48]

Re: Cabin Sole

Hi there.
Here are some ideas: The H37 has a built in 1 inch ledger on the fiberglass floor to receive the hatch cover (lid). This hatch cover has 1/4 inch sole plywood with a 1/4 x 3/4 teak trim (batten) all around. The hatch also has a 2x2 strongback attached to the bottom to reinforce it and remove any flexing.
I guess your H33 has no lip to receive the hatch and relies on an aluminun T mold to support it. You can purchase 1x1 T aluminum extrusion, not too thick, and frame the perimeter of the hatch with it, mitering the corners and screwing it to the hatch with screws every 6 inches. That way the hatch will fit as a lid. If your flooring is to be replaced, you also could install a 1x3 teak cleat under the floor and let 1 inch ledge protude into the opening. This ledge would need to be fastened with screws trough the sole and plugged. This other system would allow you to frame your hatch with a teak batten and not have any mill finish aluminum on your floor. It would look almost invisible after you line up your sole stripes.
You can find aluminum extrusion at most large glass stores. They use it for store front manufacturing, ect.
Hope I made some sense and this helps.

Jose Guidera
S/V Bonher
1979 H37c