Hunter 36' Looking for Mainsheet Rigging Ideas

[rardiH36]

Hi: I am steadily working down my repair/modification list for the 1980 Hunter 36’ I purchased this past summer.Currently I am undecided about which way to go with the running rigging systems for the boom topping lift, mainsail outhaul, and mainsail reefing, all of which need to be repaired/upgraded from the current arrangements. Perhaps owners of mid/large boats can give opinions based on a lot more experience than I have. Here is a description of my boat’s current setup and my first thoughts for modifications. 1) There are three in-boom sheave pairs for internal routing of lines. Two of the pairs have rope clutch grippers at the mast end of the boom. The third just leads back to a small cleat that is mounted on the bottom of the boom.2) The existing topping lift control consists of a block at the bottom end of a stainless steel wire hanging from the mast top. Then from the boom end, a 7/16” line is looped through the block. One end of the line is attached to the aft end of the boom, then up through the block, then down through one of the three boom-end sheaves and then through the boom by the mast. Pulling on this line at the mast adjusts the topping. The angle for pulling on the line at this point is very bad; so raising the boom "as-is" is not easy. I am thinking (?) instead to free up one of the in-mast sheave pairs by just leading the line through the block (hanging off the mast) but then terminating the line at a cleat at the boom-end and making topping lift adjustments from there. I would lead the bitter end through the opening in the cleat base and then add a stopper knot – so the boom couldn’t fall into the cockpit on anyone’s head. 3) The existing outhaul “system” is simply a line from the clew around a boom-end sheave then through inside of the boom to the mast. There is no internal block system to add leverage/purchase. I am thinking to modify (idea from the Harken website http://www.harken.com/rigtips/outhaul.php) with an external 4:1 purchase out haul system using their recommended components. Cost of this conversion would only be about $80. I am looking at this external idea becuase it seems a lot easier for a novice to install than an in-boom block system. 4) With the modifications 2) & 3) I will have three in-boom sheave pairs that are free. For sailing on San Francisco Bay, particularly during the windy summer months, I expect a convenient reefing system will be useful. I am thinking (?) that two of the boom’s internal sheave pairs can be used for the reefing lines. The first reef position would be used much more frequently than the second, so I would run its aft (clew) reef line through the boom, then back to the cockpit by adding a mast base fairlead on the deck. The boat currently has an unused sheave in the deck organizer and an unused rope clutch next to the halyard winch. These can be pressed into service for the cockpit reefing line.Many thanks for suggestions.regards,Rardi

 

[Steve Dion]

Contact Garhauer with some photos

Rardi:Contact Garhauer with some photo's. They have excellent equipment at affordable prices.

 

[joe daly]

Mainsheet Rigging

Rardi: Some of my upgrades to Trinity have been:1) a new mainsheet travlerwith6:1 purchase ( Garhaurer ) made a world of differance from originalsystem. 2) I had no topping lift adjustment, fixed wire, so I added a toppinglift halyard,since there were unused sheaves at the mast top and controlled atmast base for a few seasons.This was added as a spare halyard for I finallygot around to install a riged boom vang ( Garhaurer ) which has now eliminated the topping lift and performs really nice. All my new running rigging hardware - deck organizers,brakes,etc. is from - yes - garhaurer. Well made and reasonably priced.3) Your idea for your outhaul is a good one and I willconsider that for one of my own projects for my rigging system is as youdescibed yours.4) My reefing system is still as original, I've only usedsingle reef on a few occasions so I don't feel it necessary at this pointin project work to work anything differnt than control lines at the forward boom end. But I did replace the rope clutch grippers(original & binding) with cam style. Easier to free up when under alot of tension. Hope this helps. Happy Holidays, Joe s/v trinity

 

[rardiH36]

Cherubini 36 Mainsheet Rigging

Dear Joe and Steve:Thanks for the suggestions to take a look at the Garhauer line. I will do that.Joe, your rigid boom vang must give Trinity a more hi-tech look! For the Wildaire, adding a boom vang is on my list for consideration ... but that's a decision for next year. The PO's have sailed the boat for 27 years without one, so I want to have a more outings under my belt before I decide. For now boat seems to sail ok as is. Your upgrade to a Garhauer 6:1 traveler system has piqued my interest. I keep looking at the original mid-boom traveler mainsheet control arrangement that is still on the Wildaire. (Although I did minimally convert it from a 4:1 to 5:1 purchase). Do you still have the traveler located in the original location along the transverse raised area just forward of the companionway clamshell, with the mainsheet led through mid-boom blocks, then forward to the mast, and back to the dedicated winch next to the companion way? Or have you moved the traveler and boom connecting blocks further aft and so that the 6:1 purchase gives enough leverage to control by hand? I'm asking because with the often gusting winds on SF bay, I'm a uncertain with the current system of sheet control afforded by dedicated self-tailing winch. Freeing the mainsheet from the winch jaws takes a few moments to spill wind, and its out of each reach of the helmsman in any case. Happy holidays to you as well.regards,Richard

 

[Rick Sylvester]

You have much of what we did when we started

with our H40 several years ago. After several thousand miles of cruising I think I can offer some insights.You should consider that rigid vang upgrade immediately. Your end of boom cleat won't work. The vang induces vertical control for main twist when the boom is outboard of the traveler. In this position it would be difficult, dangerous or even impossible for you to even reach the end of the boom especially in snotty conditions. I would lead the rigid vang line to the cockpit using the available organizer/clutch you mentioned. You'll use this control at least as often as the mainsheet when off the wind. You can then get rid of the wire topping lift entirely. We clip the main halyard onto the end of the boom in port or when motoring to act as a crutch.Your outhaul idea sounds fine although getting rid of the topping lift means you could then run it inside the boom to terminate wherever you wanted.Our traveler is located on the bridgedeck. When we bought the boat I thought I might hate it there. No way. I can singlehand Anthem like a great big dinghy, wheel in one hand, mainsheet in the other. The only other arrangement I might like even better is a traveler directly in front of the pedestal a la' the J40 I crew on. IMHO the closer the sail controls are at hand, the better. I know the status quo is for the traveler to be out of the way and the the sheet to be clutched or self-tailed on the cabintop but that promotes a set-it-and-forget-it mentality. Can you sail a boat properly with a cabin top sheet? Of course (put down those flamethrowers.) It's just easier and probably safer when you don't have to jump up, unclutch and/or untail the sheet. Your reasons for thinking about traveler placement are absolutely valid.I hope these thoughts help.

 

[joe daly]

More rigging info

Rardi: I have left the travler in the Mid-boom position as designed.The originaltravler was just about impossible to control in windy conditions. Thenew travler totally changed my control over the main in all conditions. It is rigged as you descibed and I do use the cabin top winch to haul in the sheet on those heavy days but in moderate winds it is effortless by hand and smooooth. The travler design I will adjust in the near future so as to bring the cams onto the cabin top for an easier release and lock. But I have not got into that detail yet. But the block system on the travler works just fine with plenty of leverage to reposition the boom in all weather. As Rick pointed out, the mid boom position is not the optimum placement for single handing, but I like it's position for cockpit clearance and I justsnug down my wheel and make adjustments. I have not been out in heavy sailing conditions by myself, but moderate. So the crew or I tend sheets. The boom vang,I did not put it on for a few seasons, even though it waslaying on the rack in the V-berth !!!.Project priorties.And I have had Trinityfor a few seasons wanting to learn the sailing character of my boat prior tosail trim upgrade as the boom vang. (I understand your thinking in sailing your boat for a while as she is.) annnd It makes a very nice change in sail trim, my concern was how effective it would be in making a sail shape adjustment with a mid-boom travler as opposed to 2/3 or aft travler location(for leverage sake) No problem, plenty of power to draw down the boom. The vang leads back to my cabintop, port side along side my main sheet. The stainless even looks good on this 1980 sailboat. Happy winter projects ! joe s/v trinity