Hunter 35.5 opening in rear berth to change waste tank

Aug 27, 2012
92
Hunter 1990 Hunter 35.5 Toronto
Does anyone have the dimensions for cutting the panel in the rear berth. A fellow Jim Rushings has the sizes of 27" wide by 14" high in the project section. I was wondering if anyone knows the distance from the bottom of the berth to the 14" I think there is a base there and a drop down from the floor above that needs to be cleared?
Thanks Floyd
 
Aug 27, 2012
92
Hunter 1990 Hunter 35.5 Toronto
Yes thats the one i saw as well. i tried to find Jim Rushings but he doesnt seem to be on here any more
I am thinking from his photos that he centered the opening between the top and bottom? That is my concern. I dont want to cut it too low or too high, i would like to save the piece i cut out as he did.
Cant get to the boat right now we are in Lock down for two more weeks here in Toronto
Thanks Floyd
 
Feb 21, 2013
4,638
Hunter 46 Point Richmond, CA
Suggest drilling holes to locate the corners of he tank then cut out a bullhead access door.
 
Jul 19, 2007
262
-Hunter 1995-40.5 Hunter Saint Andrews, New Brunswick, Canada
Hope these are of some assistance, they're from a rebuild of the aft cabin bulkhead on our 1992 - 35.5, both the stern lazerette and aft cabin bulkheads had to be replaced. I have more photos of the rebuild method I used as well.
 

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May 19, 2020
85
Hunter 30-2 Quincy
I'm interested in this as I've got an H30-2 that might need a new poop tank. Following to see any more progress...
 
Aug 27, 2012
92
Hunter 1990 Hunter 35.5 Toronto
Hope these are of some assistance, they're from a rebuild of the aft cabin bulkhead on our 1992 - 35.5, both the stern lazerette and aft cabin bulkheads had to be replaced. I have more photos of the rebuild method I used as well.
Those are great if you have the finishing photos I would really appreciate seeing them
Thanks Floyd
 
Jul 19, 2007
262
-Hunter 1995-40.5 Hunter Saint Andrews, New Brunswick, Canada
These are the pictures that I can find right at the moment, I'll look for the others. The actual bulkhead was made of 1/2" marine grade plywood, epoxied on all edges and glassed. It was fully removalable, attached to the flange you see with stainless machine screws that screwed into embedded rivet nuts. A rubber gasket sealed the bulkhead to the flange. I then had complete access to the tank etc. As to the holding tank it was removed, completely cleaned out and a whole cut in the top where a Beckson port was installed and sealed with 5200 for future complete cleanouts. Hoses were removed as well and replaced with non permeating variety.
 

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Jul 19, 2007
262
-Hunter 1995-40.5 Hunter Saint Andrews, New Brunswick, Canada
Here is a picture of the repairs cleaned up, including the Beckson Port cleanout in the blackwater holding tank but less the bulkhead. You can see where the bulkhead attaches to the new flange via the embedded rivet nuts.
 

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Jul 19, 2007
262
-Hunter 1995-40.5 Hunter Saint Andrews, New Brunswick, Canada
BOSSailor, from the Hunter factory the bulkhead was certainly not an structural element but when I finished with it certainly was. Between the marine ply, epoxy, glass cloth and the tabbing it stiffened the stern of the boat and with the gasket and drains it will not rot out the stern again, it also allowed for better access to tankage, batteries, etc.
 
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May 19, 2020
85
Hunter 30-2 Quincy
Cool, thanks. Looks like very clean work. I was looking around the aft compartment of my 30-2 yesterday and while I originally envisioned somehow pulling the aluminum diesel tank out of the lazarettes and getting to the holding tank that way I'm afraid I might be following in your footsteps in the next year or two.
Just curious, how much fiberglass experience do you have? I've got none and this looks like a tough project to start on.
 
Jul 19, 2007
262
-Hunter 1995-40.5 Hunter Saint Andrews, New Brunswick, Canada
Did my first fibreglass work on the rudder of a 1980 - 27 Cherubini Hunter by stripping the glass off one side and gutting the foam, replacing the foam and reskinning the rudder, trial and error, a poor selection of tools but I got it done, next re-cored the foredeck under the mast step, that job went much better so much so that the buyer couldn't find my seams in the glass ( the boat is still operational in my area and that was 13 years ago. The interior job on the 35.5 was my third go round, good tools, good advise and time was what it took. Templates for the flange and the bulkhead and lots of time in dry fitting, tabbing, glassing. Use cheap materials on the first two jobs, all good stuff on the third. So experience was nil on the first one and acquired over the second two. Have subsequently taken courses at a boat school in Maine and have done work on friends boats and my present boat. Built an external rail mounted propane tank locker that I re-enforced with corecel foam and I'm now playing with molds for locker/lazerette covers and solid hatches. Loads of good stuff on U-Tube but my Go To Instructor is Andy from Boat Works Today, play the video, pause, rewind and get it done.
 
Nov 25, 2010
50
hunter 35.5 catawba island
I also cut a hole around my waste tank but for a different reason. I wanted access to the starboard inner deck above my batteries. The deck was very rotted. Years ago I saw what Jim Rushing did, so I decided to cut around the tank and gain access to the battery area. My vertical wall was only a little rotted so I was able to cut out enough to end up with a sturdy rectangular hole. By removing the floor panel over the drive shaft you get some idea where the bottom of the panel sets on the fiberglass shelve. just go up about 6" and about 4" from the starboard edge to the port side of the floor panel and cut a 5" square out. From there you get a reference point. I recommend you use an oscillating saw with a half moon cutting bit. It is easier to control. After you get your opening to the desired size. You can make a cover panel from 3/4" teak plywood. I over sized the hole 3/4" on the top and sides and cut a rabbet 1/2" deep and about 1" around the upper and side edges. I then just attached the panel with four wood screws. One at each corner. The panel looks like it always belonged there.



reference point