Hunter 340 Arch
- Thread starter canuk4ever
- Start date
Question #1: Why?
Question #2: Is it fiberglass or stainless steel?
Answer to your question: SawsAll or Wrench......Depending on the answer to Question #2.
In all seriousness, the mainsheet traveler is up there in the pictures I have seen, and unless you are a naval engineer (or hire one) how could that be helpful or trustworthy? Just wondering.
Question #2: Is it fiberglass or stainless steel?
Answer to your question: SawsAll or Wrench......Depending on the answer to Question #2.
In all seriousness, the mainsheet traveler is up there in the pictures I have seen, and unless you are a naval engineer (or hire one) how could that be helpful or trustworthy? Just wondering.
I've been told the arches are installed by the delivering dealer so you may find some variance from boat to boat.
While preparing my boat for a 300 mile transport, I found the stainless steel arch on my 2001 H340 was attached with four bolts in each of he four legs and silicone sealer between the arch feet and the deck. Before you start, I recommend getting some 3/8" dowels about 6" long so you can keep the holes in the arch feet lined up with the holes in the deck as you are removing the bolts. I found a little tension in the arch legs as I was removing them. You'll need to fashion some kind of head on the dowels so they don't just fall down below the deck. I tapered one end of each dowel in a pencil sharpener. Two dowels per leg should be enough. They'll be even more important when you re-install the arch.
I recommend removing the starboard bolts first as they're the more difficult. You'll need a helper. Whichever of you is smaller and more flexible should reach down into the battery compartment and then up under the aft arch leg (below the deck) to hold a wrench on the nuts. The other person can then unscrew the bolts from above. I found one of these bolts bent so it never got loose and we had to work it for the entire 3" to 4" length. If the batteries are in the way, take them out. The nuts for the forward starboard leg can be reached from inside the cockpit storage locker. Take everything out and you should be able to get your right hand up to the nuts while laying on your right shoulder. A boat cushion may help avoid some discomfort. While working on these four bolts, I allowed my hips to slip down into the storage locker and got really stuck. My wife had to throw a line over the now wobbly arch and winch me up. It's funny now but wasn't that day. A stack of cushions may help keep your butt from slipping down into the locker.
The bolts on the port side can be accessed via two removable panels in the overhead above the stern berth. It was fairly tight but I had room to put a trouble light in the space between the deck and the overhead liner and could get a wrench up in the space to hold the nuts while my wife unscrewed the bolts from above.
After all the bolts were removed, I tied the arch to the boom to maintain some control and then used a flexible putty knife to carefully break the silicone seal under each arch foot.
Just remember, sometimes you have to go slow and wait for some good luck to catch up with you.
Ron B.
While preparing my boat for a 300 mile transport, I found the stainless steel arch on my 2001 H340 was attached with four bolts in each of he four legs and silicone sealer between the arch feet and the deck. Before you start, I recommend getting some 3/8" dowels about 6" long so you can keep the holes in the arch feet lined up with the holes in the deck as you are removing the bolts. I found a little tension in the arch legs as I was removing them. You'll need to fashion some kind of head on the dowels so they don't just fall down below the deck. I tapered one end of each dowel in a pencil sharpener. Two dowels per leg should be enough. They'll be even more important when you re-install the arch.
I recommend removing the starboard bolts first as they're the more difficult. You'll need a helper. Whichever of you is smaller and more flexible should reach down into the battery compartment and then up under the aft arch leg (below the deck) to hold a wrench on the nuts. The other person can then unscrew the bolts from above. I found one of these bolts bent so it never got loose and we had to work it for the entire 3" to 4" length. If the batteries are in the way, take them out. The nuts for the forward starboard leg can be reached from inside the cockpit storage locker. Take everything out and you should be able to get your right hand up to the nuts while laying on your right shoulder. A boat cushion may help avoid some discomfort. While working on these four bolts, I allowed my hips to slip down into the storage locker and got really stuck. My wife had to throw a line over the now wobbly arch and winch me up. It's funny now but wasn't that day. A stack of cushions may help keep your butt from slipping down into the locker.
The bolts on the port side can be accessed via two removable panels in the overhead above the stern berth. It was fairly tight but I had room to put a trouble light in the space between the deck and the overhead liner and could get a wrench up in the space to hold the nuts while my wife unscrewed the bolts from above.
After all the bolts were removed, I tied the arch to the boom to maintain some control and then used a flexible putty knife to carefully break the silicone seal under each arch foot.
Just remember, sometimes you have to go slow and wait for some good luck to catch up with you.
Ron B.
Last edited:
Ron;
Thank you sir for a detailed unbolt of the arch. Unless you are transporting the boat, I would advise not to remove the arch.. If water is leaking inside of the arch and pooling, suggest drilling a small hold in arch so water can escape to the outside. If leaking thru the bolts, only remove the one affected and clean then reseal with sealant.
Once another Hunter came in on trade and , the folks used 5200 which was the dumbest thing attaching the arch to the boat till it was later changed regarding the attachment of the arch was redesigned..
Thank you sir for a detailed unbolt of the arch. Unless you are transporting the boat, I would advise not to remove the arch.. If water is leaking inside of the arch and pooling, suggest drilling a small hold in arch so water can escape to the outside. If leaking thru the bolts, only remove the one affected and clean then reseal with sealant.
Once another Hunter came in on trade and , the folks used 5200 which was the dumbest thing attaching the arch to the boat till it was later changed regarding the attachment of the arch was redesigned..
Last edited:
Ron thanks for the detailed advice. My arch is fiberglass and I believe the arch must come down for transport by truck. I had a look at all the bolts and found bolts on both sides running horizontally and vertically into the hull. I see how the arch would come off after removing the nuts on the vertical bolts, but it appears that I must remove the nuts AND the bolts which run horizontally. How can I remove the bolts running horizontally? Now I'm wondering how they were even installed!
If you are unable to see the nuts from topsides, generally they can be accessed by removing ceiling panels inside. It has been some time removing one of those arches.