Hunter 34 - Shore Power Circuit Replacement - Inlet Replacement

[swshogren]

I have a 1984 Hunter 34. Last week I manger to toast my shore power cord and inlet due running a couple of space heaters and dehumidifier the cold and wet weather here in the Pacific NW. When it got really cold it all kicked in at the same time and drew too much power.

I have decided to replace my inlet and my burnt cord end with a SMARTPLUG inlet and cord kit (SmartPlug B30ASSYNT | Fisheries Supply ).

My challenge comes inside the boat. It looks like this may not be the first replacement of the inlet. I am missing the 30-amp breaker that is now required by ABYC and it looks/feels like the original 110 -10/3 conductor wire inside the boat is too short to reach the inlet. I also don't know why there is this cutout exists between the quarterberth area the storage area under the cockpit seat.

How can I safely extend the original conductor wire to reach the new inlet? I have tried to get a crimped but connector on my old connection - but it has not worked, and I am afraid of making the wire shorter than it already is.

Or - Has anyone replaced the whole 10/3 conductor wire from the inlet to the panel. And if so - how did you fish the wire between the two?

And has anyone added the 30-amp breaker between the inlet and the panel? Where did you locate it?

 

[kloudie1]

Hey, Sam.. On my 34, the original 10/3 wire from the inlet runs between the liner and the cockpit wall. It goes (as I recall) aft then to port into the hull beam/wiring tunnel then forward to the big wiring (maybe 4") conduit through the shelf top over the nav station and then
behind the panel. I don't think that running new wire would be a problem. Looks like a PO started to put in a shore power breaker into that hole then a short run to the inlet? My boat is still original, built at a time when that breaker was not a requirement in the code. My panel does not have the hole cut into it.

 

[BigEasy]

My 1988 Hunter 33.5 did not have a shore power breaker, same as kloudie's 34. Good move converting to a smart plug...you will like it! Also a good time to add the shore power breaker; it shouldn't be too difficult to add.

 

[jssailem]

On the Smart Plug choice.

Don’t skimp on the wire. Use marine grade 3 strand wire not HD Romex.

Since your into this safety project, add a Galvanic Isolator between the plug and the breaker.

A galvanic isolator is a device that is inserted, in series, into the AC green grounding wire (safety ground) of your shore power feed to help minimize or reduce the effects of galvanic current from flowing into your vessel. (MaineSail from Testing A Galvanic Isolator - Marine How To )

It will save your boat metals. I encourage you to read the above link.

 

[jk kudera]

While you are re wiring, maybe add a second 30 amp service for those heaver loads you use?

 

[Crusty Ol Salt]

I swear on my H280 the breaker is installed where the cutout is in the plywood bulk head. Looking for a picture now.

 

[Crusty Ol Salt]

NO picture and it is raining and a gale warning. I will get you one tomorrow.