Does anyone know that capacity of the Hunter 34 icebox (xx cu. ft.). I want to know so that I can figure out what size refrigeration conversion to use for the icebox and you need to know the cubic feet to do that. I guess I also plan on putting some more insulation at the bottom of the box, etc. Ours is a 1987, so it is part of the 83-87 H34 group. Thanks.
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8 cubic feet
But the stock insulation means it is really closer to 36 cubic feet. Believe me, if you want a working fridge, start adding insulation!
But the stock insulation means it is really closer to 36 cubic feet. Believe me, if you want a working fridge, start adding insulation!
Which pictures
Fred, I know the answer is in one of your pictures on your site - do you know which ones to look at to see how you did your fridge? I have your site bookmarked and always look there when I don't like something on our boat to see how you fixed it on yours.
Fred, I know the answer is in one of your pictures on your site - do you know which ones to look at to see how you did your fridge? I have your site bookmarked and always look there when I don't like something on our boat to see how you fixed it on yours.
Jared, Thank you but you 'got me'.
Sorry, but you'll have to visualize a man and woman tearing a cabinet apart using crow bars. Crap is flying in the air. Next, picture the existing ice box and home made companion freezer being shaved of insulation with a straight blade shovel. See what I mean? We never even considered bringing the digital camera into that environment. What I would recommend that you do is to add insulation from the outside. First, inside the engine box, peel back any sound proofing. (Joke, the stock stuff is junk) Then install a layer of closed cell foam where the ice box is against engine heat. The best solution is to mount a vacuum panel there. But the problem with that is it would be exposed to any nicks or dings and would loose vacuum. If that happened, it's ruined. It would go from R36 to R2. I mounted mine on the inside of the panel. Better stick with closed cell foam in the engine box. Then for the bottom, at the rear of the box where the factory mounted the batteries, (bigger joke) drill a 1/4" hole. You are looking for AIR, not foam. Then do the same thing in the opposite side at the front-bottom. You know, in that space under the stove area. Again, you're looking to find air. Also make a couple of holes in the wall of the trash bin. Then go to Home Depot and buy about 6-8 cans of insulating spray foam. They should be all over the store. Stick a nozzle in the low-rear hole and start filling. Don't stop until you see foam coming out of one of the holes under the stove. It should then expand to the hole in the trash bin and vent out to an unobtrusive area for cleaning AFTER it dries. I would also cover the area around the holes with duct tape so that the foam can't penetrate wood grain. Also plug the lower holes as soon as foam is there. It really helps with cleanup too. I would also caulk the gap at the floor in the galley prior to this job. You could just tape it,,Na, caulk it. At the rear of the box, when you're done spraying foam, you can make a template of the rear panel and install another foam panel. You can order up a vacuum panel from rparts.com but, again, it must be protected. The way we did this job is to buy four gallons of pour foam and build it up from the front with the front panel off. The entire area was covered with vis-queen to prevent disasters. I wouldn't use the stuff again. Too hard to work with. Just use the spray stuff. Now look under the lid inside the box. Don't see any insulation do you? And these are Florida boats! Again, foam boards with spray adhesive works. Another trick with the foam boards is to cut them just a little larger than the space available and then wedge them into place. Well Jared, I'm sure you know now why this wasn't a digital camera environment. Whew. But it sure works good. Our refer holdover plate only requires the engine to pull it down once a day for 30 minutes because the freezer is next to it and outboard. The freezer is pulled down twice a day. On my to-do list is adjusting the freezer TXV for more volume. It's still a little light. I might also change it to a higher tonnage. You are going to have so much fun.
Sorry, but you'll have to visualize a man and woman tearing a cabinet apart using crow bars. Crap is flying in the air. Next, picture the existing ice box and home made companion freezer being shaved of insulation with a straight blade shovel. See what I mean? We never even considered bringing the digital camera into that environment. What I would recommend that you do is to add insulation from the outside. First, inside the engine box, peel back any sound proofing. (Joke, the stock stuff is junk) Then install a layer of closed cell foam where the ice box is against engine heat. The best solution is to mount a vacuum panel there. But the problem with that is it would be exposed to any nicks or dings and would loose vacuum. If that happened, it's ruined. It would go from R36 to R2. I mounted mine on the inside of the panel. Better stick with closed cell foam in the engine box. Then for the bottom, at the rear of the box where the factory mounted the batteries, (bigger joke) drill a 1/4" hole. You are looking for AIR, not foam. Then do the same thing in the opposite side at the front-bottom. You know, in that space under the stove area. Again, you're looking to find air. Also make a couple of holes in the wall of the trash bin. Then go to Home Depot and buy about 6-8 cans of insulating spray foam. They should be all over the store. Stick a nozzle in the low-rear hole and start filling. Don't stop until you see foam coming out of one of the holes under the stove. It should then expand to the hole in the trash bin and vent out to an unobtrusive area for cleaning AFTER it dries. I would also cover the area around the holes with duct tape so that the foam can't penetrate wood grain. Also plug the lower holes as soon as foam is there. It really helps with cleanup too. I would also caulk the gap at the floor in the galley prior to this job. You could just tape it,,Na, caulk it. At the rear of the box, when you're done spraying foam, you can make a template of the rear panel and install another foam panel. You can order up a vacuum panel from rparts.com but, again, it must be protected. The way we did this job is to buy four gallons of pour foam and build it up from the front with the front panel off. The entire area was covered with vis-queen to prevent disasters. I wouldn't use the stuff again. Too hard to work with. Just use the spray stuff. Now look under the lid inside the box. Don't see any insulation do you? And these are Florida boats! Again, foam boards with spray adhesive works. Another trick with the foam boards is to cut them just a little larger than the space available and then wedge them into place. Well Jared, I'm sure you know now why this wasn't a digital camera environment. Whew. But it sure works good. Our refer holdover plate only requires the engine to pull it down once a day for 30 minutes because the freezer is next to it and outboard. The freezer is pulled down twice a day. On my to-do list is adjusting the freezer TXV for more volume. It's still a little light. I might also change it to a higher tonnage. You are going to have so much fun.
Thanks!
Thanks, that definitely gives me a good idea how to tackle the job. Good advise on cleaning after that foam stuff expands - I made the mistake of spreading that junk all over the place and getting it all over me one time right after I sprayed it. That looks like a winter project to me. Seems easier to just put in a new fridge somewhere else and put dry goods in this existing hole! But, that wouldn't be a fun you know...
Thanks, that definitely gives me a good idea how to tackle the job. Good advise on cleaning after that foam stuff expands - I made the mistake of spreading that junk all over the place and getting it all over me one time right after I sprayed it. That looks like a winter project to me. Seems easier to just put in a new fridge somewhere else and put dry goods in this existing hole! But, that wouldn't be a fun you know...
Great idea
That is a great idea to save that because I am sure lots of folks want to do that upgrade and your step-by-step instructions there will save days of headscratcing! Thanks for the help.
That is a great idea to save that because I am sure lots of folks want to do that upgrade and your step-by-step instructions there will save days of headscratcing! Thanks for the help.
Ice Box Measurement
I had the occasion to measure the interior dimensions of the standard H34 ice box recently. While I don't have the result with me at work, it worked out to something in the range of 6.2 to 6.6 cubic feet. We use ours as a pantry and have been bringing a Coleman ac/dc travel cooler aboard each weekend, which has gotten old over this summer. It only produces a 40 degree ambient temp difference, which means, on a hot July/August day on the Chesapeake, your beer is "cool" not "cold". I was in a Lowe's home center this past weekend and discovered a 1.5 cu. ft. "dorm room" fridge that is a 20 inch cube for just under $50. I'm now planning to pull the Origo 6000 stove/oven out and put this unit in its place. It pulls only 1.4 amps on ac so a reasonable sized inverter should support it away from the dock. There should be enough room when done to fit an Origo 3000 in the space above it, should the need arise to boil water, etc. on the hook. S/V Intrepid H34 #113
I had the occasion to measure the interior dimensions of the standard H34 ice box recently. While I don't have the result with me at work, it worked out to something in the range of 6.2 to 6.6 cubic feet. We use ours as a pantry and have been bringing a Coleman ac/dc travel cooler aboard each weekend, which has gotten old over this summer. It only produces a 40 degree ambient temp difference, which means, on a hot July/August day on the Chesapeake, your beer is "cool" not "cold". I was in a Lowe's home center this past weekend and discovered a 1.5 cu. ft. "dorm room" fridge that is a 20 inch cube for just under $50. I'm now planning to pull the Origo 6000 stove/oven out and put this unit in its place. It pulls only 1.4 amps on ac so a reasonable sized inverter should support it away from the dock. There should be enough room when done to fit an Origo 3000 in the space above it, should the need arise to boil water, etc. on the hook. S/V Intrepid H34 #113
h34 Ice Box
You'll find tha the Hunter craftsmen that built this vessel decided that insulation was not necessary on the bottom where it is very critical since cold air falls. Then you may wonder why they put the ice box next to the motor. DUH? I suggest you start over with a better insulated box in a better location and forget what size the original box was
You'll find tha the Hunter craftsmen that built this vessel decided that insulation was not necessary on the bottom where it is very critical since cold air falls. Then you may wonder why they put the ice box next to the motor. DUH? I suggest you start over with a better insulated box in a better location and forget what size the original box was
Icebox Conversion
I recently completed an icebox conversion on my H34. The freon line penetration into the icebox revealed about 2" of polyurethane foam insulation. I insulated the interior with 2" extruded polystyrene which reduced the internal volume from ~8 cubic feet to 4.6 cubic feet. Extruded polystyrene has an R5 value per inch and is very durable as opposed to the compressed bead polystyrene. I precision cut the insulation for a tight "wedged in" fit so no adhesive was necessary for holding the insulation in place. I sealed the exposed seams with silicone caulk to aid in preventing wicked fluid behind the insulation. I installed a Norcold Icebox conversion. This unit is reasonably priced and draws a little more than 3 amps on 12 volts. The compressor/condenser unit is mounted behind the bulkhead on top of the icebox which makes easy plumbing to the evaporator and easy wiring to the batteries. As for performance, when I initially started the unit I had no reference for setting the thermostat so I set it about 2/3 max. I returned to the boat the following weekend and found many of the drinks frozen and busted. This was during August in Florida. I now have the thermostat set to maintain about 37F (about 1/3 max). I haven't checked the cycle timing on the unit yet but plan to connect instruments to monitor this one weekend. I may have to wait for next summer for a good test. I would make one improvement during installation. I would cover the exposed face of the polystyrene with self adhesive laminate prior to installation to make the surface more resistant to knicks and bumps.
I recently completed an icebox conversion on my H34. The freon line penetration into the icebox revealed about 2" of polyurethane foam insulation. I insulated the interior with 2" extruded polystyrene which reduced the internal volume from ~8 cubic feet to 4.6 cubic feet. Extruded polystyrene has an R5 value per inch and is very durable as opposed to the compressed bead polystyrene. I precision cut the insulation for a tight "wedged in" fit so no adhesive was necessary for holding the insulation in place. I sealed the exposed seams with silicone caulk to aid in preventing wicked fluid behind the insulation. I installed a Norcold Icebox conversion. This unit is reasonably priced and draws a little more than 3 amps on 12 volts. The compressor/condenser unit is mounted behind the bulkhead on top of the icebox which makes easy plumbing to the evaporator and easy wiring to the batteries. As for performance, when I initially started the unit I had no reference for setting the thermostat so I set it about 2/3 max. I returned to the boat the following weekend and found many of the drinks frozen and busted. This was during August in Florida. I now have the thermostat set to maintain about 37F (about 1/3 max). I haven't checked the cycle timing on the unit yet but plan to connect instruments to monitor this one weekend. I may have to wait for next summer for a good test. I would make one improvement during installation. I would cover the exposed face of the polystyrene with self adhesive laminate prior to installation to make the surface more resistant to knicks and bumps.
Addendum to Ice Box Measurement
Found measurements over the weekend and had calculated capacity at 6.3 cu. ft. This past weekend removed Origo 6000 stove/oven and found 1.6 cu ft dorm room fridge fit perfectly in vacated space. Used front leveling feet threads to bolt box down to cabinet base below stove. Will construct lid for cut-out space that will accomodate the Origo stove portion of the 6000 as a drop-in unit. Won't gimbal, but that's OK with the admiral who only uses the galley space to make dinner reservations ashore from.
Found measurements over the weekend and had calculated capacity at 6.3 cu. ft. This past weekend removed Origo 6000 stove/oven and found 1.6 cu ft dorm room fridge fit perfectly in vacated space. Used front leveling feet threads to bolt box down to cabinet base below stove. Will construct lid for cut-out space that will accomodate the Origo stove portion of the 6000 as a drop-in unit. Won't gimbal, but that's OK with the admiral who only uses the galley space to make dinner reservations ashore from.
Dan, 1.4 amps on AC?
That'll work out to something like 15 to 20 amps draw on the DC side of your inverter. Hope you've got a big house bank. We've got an AC/DC Norcold dorm type unit in our H40 but it's a real hog. We shut it down if we're on the hook for more than a few days. I added some insulation to our icebox and even with an air cooled 12 volt Grunnert cooling it it's WAY more efficient.
That'll work out to something like 15 to 20 amps draw on the DC side of your inverter. Hope you've got a big house bank. We've got an AC/DC Norcold dorm type unit in our H40 but it's a real hog. We shut it down if we're on the hook for more than a few days. I added some insulation to our icebox and even with an air cooled 12 volt Grunnert cooling it it's WAY more efficient.
Question to Fred
Fred, As usual you have great ideas for tackling problems. My boat is a 1984 H34. I am somewhat confused by where to drill the holes for the foam. I plan to add refrigeration soon as well. I am trying to picture the layout of the icebox. Is there a hollow "shell" around the exterior insulation on the box that is being filled? Does this hollow area extend all of the way around the box including the bottom? Is there any way to access from the top to fill with the foam? From what you said, I am picturing a hollow area that is being filled from the bottom up from three sides. I would like to insulate with the spray foam only and not attempt to use any flat interior insulation panels. Your explanation was well detailed, however, I am cannot quite picture the layout around the existing box in my head. Thanks for your help.
Fred, As usual you have great ideas for tackling problems. My boat is a 1984 H34. I am somewhat confused by where to drill the holes for the foam. I plan to add refrigeration soon as well. I am trying to picture the layout of the icebox. Is there a hollow "shell" around the exterior insulation on the box that is being filled? Does this hollow area extend all of the way around the box including the bottom? Is there any way to access from the top to fill with the foam? From what you said, I am picturing a hollow area that is being filled from the bottom up from three sides. I would like to insulate with the spray foam only and not attempt to use any flat interior insulation panels. Your explanation was well detailed, however, I am cannot quite picture the layout around the existing box in my head. Thanks for your help.
What the label says....
Rick, 1.4 amps is what the label on the fridge says for current draw. As the only time it could be running off an inverter is when we sail, I may consider a dedicated battery for it and turn the setting to the least cooling while on DC support. Since use would be intermittent, a 27 or 31 should provide enough juice for an afternoon's sail. I've got a digital thermometer with an outside probe. I may try taking its temperature rise over time this weekend to see if I even need to support it while sailing. We've been using a Coleman ac/dc travel cooler with no problems this summer. S/V Intrepid H34
Rick, 1.4 amps is what the label on the fridge says for current draw. As the only time it could be running off an inverter is when we sail, I may consider a dedicated battery for it and turn the setting to the least cooling while on DC support. Since use would be intermittent, a 27 or 31 should provide enough juice for an afternoon's sail. I've got a digital thermometer with an outside probe. I may try taking its temperature rise over time this weekend to see if I even need to support it while sailing. We've been using a Coleman ac/dc travel cooler with no problems this summer. S/V Intrepid H34
Brad
I think the factory insulated the box while it was upside down. They used pour foam. When it quit expanding they used a straight edge tool to scape the wet foam off of the bottom. What foam that remained is all you get. The sides weren't too bad. So if you picture that method of construction then it's easy to figure out where the holes for access should go. I think the reason they just scraped off the insulation is that the box bottom rests against the hull at the outboard rear corner. Little to no insulation can fit there. So they just took the quick and dirty way out. You know, placing a hole in the inside-bottom of the box for foam injection is not a bad idea. As long as you're able to seal it up with Marine-Tex or something. But you still need a couple of holes around the sides so as to be able to monitor the volume of foam. And to give it a way out. If it has no easy way out it will make a way out. Not good. Good luck and thanks for the nice comments.
I think the factory insulated the box while it was upside down. They used pour foam. When it quit expanding they used a straight edge tool to scape the wet foam off of the bottom. What foam that remained is all you get. The sides weren't too bad. So if you picture that method of construction then it's easy to figure out where the holes for access should go. I think the reason they just scraped off the insulation is that the box bottom rests against the hull at the outboard rear corner. Little to no insulation can fit there. So they just took the quick and dirty way out. You know, placing a hole in the inside-bottom of the box for foam injection is not a bad idea. As long as you're able to seal it up with Marine-Tex or something. But you still need a couple of holes around the sides so as to be able to monitor the volume of foam. And to give it a way out. If it has no easy way out it will make a way out. Not good. Good luck and thanks for the nice comments.
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