If you can't figure out the brand of track.... then a drawing or picture of it's profile would help a lot. Even though the track appears to be a high rise version (the lower part is thicker to get the car off the deck) what's important is the upper part that matches up with the car's bearings.... BUT..... I have an alternative solution that won't cost you a lot of money and will give you a much better functioning traveler. Here goes: instead of replacing the pin stops... attach a pair of 5/16 low stretch control lines, one to each side of the car.... then install two small blocks to the sides above each end of the track... threading the control lines through them to a vee, clam or cam cleat mounted on the side of the cockpit, a foot or so up or back... whatever is convenient. With a little creativity you can also incorporate some purchase.. 2 or 3 to one, say... but it's not necessary for the system to operate... you're not intending to move the traveler under load, you just want to re set it more easily that having to fiddle with the finicky pin stop on the track. The control line should be a grade or two above standard polyester line. Since you only need a few feet on either side, you can afford to get something good... Samson MDX would work well... and the higher quality line will allow you to go with the smaller diameter 5/16... saving money on the line and running smoothly through the smaller size block. A standard Harken bullet block fastened with an eyestrap... through bolted with large washers would be perfect... again the smaller size reaps large savings. Finally, the smaller line size will allow you to splurge on a pair of small Harken or Ronstan cam cleats with fairleads (which keeps the line captive and in position). There you go... problem solved... and upgraded. If you go to a more complex system at a later date...you'll be able to re use the hardware..