Hunter 30_74-83

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T

Ted

... anyone removed/replaced the prop shaft on this vintage H30? How done? Arrangment with the skeg rudder makes it appear only way to remove the shaft is to remove the engine..(or at least hoist out of the way).... if no EZ way to do this, looks like we're in for changing out the cutlass bearing with the shaft remaining in place... any ideas/experiences out there? Thanx
 
B

Barry

change shaft

I had a stainless shaft put in two years ago. The yard that did the work did not have to remove the skeg. the shaft is 48" long and once the bracket holding it on the hull is removed, there is enough play to take it out. The hardest part is working inside the boat taking the nuts off the tranny. Good luck. make sure the packing gland is put together properly when you are done barry
 
T

Ted

Update

All, Got the strut off & can replace cutlass bearing (one of the primary objectives of all this).... but now, shaft won't come out of the coupling... considering cutting it & replacing unless someone can suggest a great way to get the shaft loose? Already tried hammering on the back side of the (protected) prop hub, to no avail... Thanx
 
B

Barry

Shaft Removal

Ted, That's a problem frequently encountered. I'll tell you what I did. First soak the flange with penetrating oil for a few days. Then put socket behind the flange that is slightly smaller than the shaft diameter. Obtain a few bolts that are longer than the original flange blots and tighten it back on the transmission flange. The socket "should" press the shaft out as the bolts are tightened. CAUTION: too much force could break this flange which is usually cast iron. If it doesn't come off with reasonable force try heating the flange. This will expand it slightly and may help to get it loose. I pulled the rudder rather than remove the strut. Good luck, Barry Olsen s/v 'PER DIEM too"
 
R

Roland

Prop shaft

Had this problem a couple of years ago with my '77 h30C. Rather than remove the skeg, I jacked up the motor with small hydraulic jacks and some 2X4's. Discovered a broken motor mount in the process. Of course, disconnect the flange from the tranny first, remove the prop and pull everything into the boat. This can be done in the water. Plug the hole with a 1 in. dia. rod to keep the water out. If your skeg doesn't leak and is secure, you don't want to compromise that. Check the bolts holding your skeg on from the inside. If they are corroded - they are probably galvanized as mine were and not stainless - now would be a good time to pull the skeg, 5200 it back on and replace the bolts with stainless. Haul the boat to do this and take care of all the other out of the water things that need to be done. -Roland S/V Fraulein II
 
T

Ted

Update2

All, Thanx for all the advice, it was great!... FYI, I removed the strut... & cut the prop shaft with a SawzAll just aft of the coupling flange.... considered it easier to replace the shaft than raise up the engine... now in the process of putting in a dripless shaft seal, new shaft, & new cutlass bearing... doubt VERY seriously that the old shaft could've ever been separated from the flange, in the boat, as it is pretty firmly stuck in there!... Boat yard is going to use a hydraulic press to get the stub out of the flange so new shaft can go in... Thanx again for all the inputs!!
 
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