Oct 1 2006 Dear All, The end of the year draws near and the storage woge work begins.This will be our first time taking our mast down. We have reviewed the archives and are trying to pick up any additional tidbits to facilitate this process as much as possible.Does anyone have any suggestions? The mast hoist we will be using is not as high as the mast itself. How strong can the winds be? Thanks to all again. Kevin W Coffin kwcoffin@hotmail.com
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Not too difficult
I used to take the mast down on my 1980 H33 with the help of 2 to 3 people. Our gin pole is higher than yours, but I think that as long as you can be above the center point of your mast that you will be OK. The rope loop or strap will work its' way up to the bottom of your spreaders. A hint for re-stepping the mast is to have a line from the loop hanging down so that when the mast is vertical, you can pull the loop down if it gets stuck at the spreaders. I tried to do this work with winds under 10 knots. Have one man at the gin pole to work that. Have 2 men on the deck to unplug the electronics, then guide the mast down to a horizontal position. The last person is helping guide the roller furling, not to get any sharp bends in it. It can lay over the spreaders when the mast is coming down. I used to shove a 2X4 up the opening in the bottom of the mast to use as a splint with the roller furling since it hangs over the end of the mast. In order not to tie up the hoist, you can loosen the turnbuckles enough to pull the cotter pins. In fact, you can even take off the inner cables of your standing rigging, leaving only the outer, fore-stay and back-stay to do last. If storing the mast on the boat, have all your supports built and in place. If storing off the boat, have straps or rope ready to secure all standing rigging and roller furling to the mast. In either case, don't forget to remove any wind vanes or instrumentation as well as antenna(s). That way they don't get lost or broken during winter storage. Also cover the base of the mast with thick plastic sheeting to prevent birds from nesting in your mast. I guess that is about it. Be very careful during this whole process. You do not want that mast to drop on anybody. I am told a bowline is not the knot of choice for the loop since it can slip. If you use a bowline, tie an extra knot at the bitter end. I forget what the preferred knot is to use.
I used to take the mast down on my 1980 H33 with the help of 2 to 3 people. Our gin pole is higher than yours, but I think that as long as you can be above the center point of your mast that you will be OK. The rope loop or strap will work its' way up to the bottom of your spreaders. A hint for re-stepping the mast is to have a line from the loop hanging down so that when the mast is vertical, you can pull the loop down if it gets stuck at the spreaders. I tried to do this work with winds under 10 knots. Have one man at the gin pole to work that. Have 2 men on the deck to unplug the electronics, then guide the mast down to a horizontal position. The last person is helping guide the roller furling, not to get any sharp bends in it. It can lay over the spreaders when the mast is coming down. I used to shove a 2X4 up the opening in the bottom of the mast to use as a splint with the roller furling since it hangs over the end of the mast. In order not to tie up the hoist, you can loosen the turnbuckles enough to pull the cotter pins. In fact, you can even take off the inner cables of your standing rigging, leaving only the outer, fore-stay and back-stay to do last. If storing the mast on the boat, have all your supports built and in place. If storing off the boat, have straps or rope ready to secure all standing rigging and roller furling to the mast. In either case, don't forget to remove any wind vanes or instrumentation as well as antenna(s). That way they don't get lost or broken during winter storage. Also cover the base of the mast with thick plastic sheeting to prevent birds from nesting in your mast. I guess that is about it. Be very careful during this whole process. You do not want that mast to drop on anybody. I am told a bowline is not the knot of choice for the loop since it can slip. If you use a bowline, tie an extra knot at the bitter end. I forget what the preferred knot is to use.
Use two similar boats as sheer lifts
On my Hunter 28 (also on Hunter 30s of late '80s and early 90's vintage), the mast step has a flange that fits inside the base of the mast. This means you have to raise the mast vertically a few inches before you can pivot it back on deck. I've had great success by enlisting the assistance of two boats of similar size, tied to either side of your boat. Be sure to rig bow and stern lines with fore and aft spring lines to each of the assisting boats to ensure that everybody stays in position. Rig a bridle that will snub just under your lower spreaders, then attach the main halyards from each of the assisting boats to the bridle. You'll need a crew member on each of the assisting boats to run their halyards to their respective halyard winches, then take up the slack. Now, what has happened is that your mast is supported laterally by opposing forces, just like your standing rigging supports the mast. Use your jib halyard as a substitute forestay to compensate for the lost support when you disconnect your permanent forestay. Loosen the shrouds to allow enough clearance for the mast to raise vertically over the lip of the mast step, then, have your assisting crew to begin hauling evenly on their halyards. The mast should rise vertically, easily clearing the lip of the step. Of course, you will have already disconnected mast light and antenna cables. With a couple of crew members at the base of the mast, you should be able to pivot the base of the mast forward, then the halyard crews can slack tension, as you lower the mast head aft to the deck. I've found that a crew of six performs this safely, and securely: One each at the halyard winches on the opposing boats, two at the base of the mast, and two to guide the upper portion of the mast aft to the stern rail. I've done this in a crowded marina, in gusty conditions, and everything stays centered, in control and secure. Good communication and crew coordination is the key. Good luck. Robert
On my Hunter 28 (also on Hunter 30s of late '80s and early 90's vintage), the mast step has a flange that fits inside the base of the mast. This means you have to raise the mast vertically a few inches before you can pivot it back on deck. I've had great success by enlisting the assistance of two boats of similar size, tied to either side of your boat. Be sure to rig bow and stern lines with fore and aft spring lines to each of the assisting boats to ensure that everybody stays in position. Rig a bridle that will snub just under your lower spreaders, then attach the main halyards from each of the assisting boats to the bridle. You'll need a crew member on each of the assisting boats to run their halyards to their respective halyard winches, then take up the slack. Now, what has happened is that your mast is supported laterally by opposing forces, just like your standing rigging supports the mast. Use your jib halyard as a substitute forestay to compensate for the lost support when you disconnect your permanent forestay. Loosen the shrouds to allow enough clearance for the mast to raise vertically over the lip of the mast step, then, have your assisting crew to begin hauling evenly on their halyards. The mast should rise vertically, easily clearing the lip of the step. Of course, you will have already disconnected mast light and antenna cables. With a couple of crew members at the base of the mast, you should be able to pivot the base of the mast forward, then the halyard crews can slack tension, as you lower the mast head aft to the deck. I've found that a crew of six performs this safely, and securely: One each at the halyard winches on the opposing boats, two at the base of the mast, and two to guide the upper portion of the mast aft to the stern rail. I've done this in a crowded marina, in gusty conditions, and everything stays centered, in control and secure. Good communication and crew coordination is the key. Good luck. Robert
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