Hunter 280 Fractional Rig Racing

[Cor280]

So I have had 2 races with my 1996 Hunter 280 and learned something in both. First downwind is a little tough I didn't have my jib pole and suffered. Last night I used it and actually gained on the Fleet (from behind). Last night however the wind was 12 to 17 knots which is not usual for this lake and while the other boats used smaller head sails to stabilize mine is already only a 118% and I was getting knocked down to the point I was moving slower than the fleet so I was wondering do I have to use the reef on this large Mail sail even when racing to actually keep up? If so when do I need it without actually hurting my speed?

 

[seadaddler]

Reefing

I don't race and not an expert sailor but yes when all of your nsails are up and so much wind will over power you for sure and hard to believe that reefing would have make your boat speed up.
You need to take your sailboat out sailing in all different wind speeds and learn how much and when to reef so you are not over powered,I think some racing sailboats with different designed hull can heel alot more than others but like my 2007 H-36 can get overpowered so much with full sails at say 20 kts of wind and be overpowered that my speed starts droping and my auto will not hold course but if I reef with my furling main my boat speed will pickup to 6 or 7 knts.
I will let the experts and racers explain it more to you.
Nick

 

[Les]

I had a H35.5 which had the beginnings of the B & R rig which we raced (won boat of the year once) and then a H380 which was just a bit bigger then your H280. However your 280 and my 380 had the newer hull design with a broad beam brought all the way back to the stern and with a somewhat flatter bottom then more traditional boats.

So what this means (if I understand Bob Perry's comments on boat design), the x80s need to be sailed more upright then traditional boats. A 10 to 15 degree heel is all you want, therefore, you need to reef the main early. If it is a reach, you could let the main out more then normal but on the wind you should probably reef early on.

Another point that I learned with the 35.5 and the 380 was NOT to go dead downwind. Because of the B & R rig you can't get the main all the way out so hold to a course of about 160 degrees, thereby footing faster then your competition and jibe halfway down to the leeward mark. I'll bet you'll be ahead of much of the fleet.

Bill Buchan, a famous racer in these parts, once told me, "Don't sail the other guys boat" meaning don't do what the other guy is doing. Sail YOUR boat to its maximum and also sail YOUR wind. His wind will be different. He's right.

I wish you well.

 

[Cor280]

Thank you for your responses. While there are plenty of excellent sailor a this lake there aren't many available with a B & R rig for me to ask these questions too. What you are saying are great guidelines for me. I was at a pretty steady 25 to 30 degree heal. I noticed that in my previous race I was making good time in the windward leg in lighter air which made it more obvious I was having issues yesterday. Getting good with the reef so that I can open it up downwind would then give me an advantage. When you sail at 160% do you still attempt to wing and wing it with a pole? I believe we were doing that at one point just having the pole pretty far forward.

 

[Les]

Cor280. I used a extendable whisker pole on the 35.5 but no pole on the H380. Being able to reef smoothly was our best boat trim device. The 35.5 had two reef points with a line for each point coming back to the cockpit. Although it came with the boat I think any sailmaker could devise that for you for a small charge.

My 380 had roller furling main, but we reefed often. I believe these new designed boats with big sterns and big mains are sensitive to the amount of sail you have up--which is nice because in light air you have the advantage of the entire main but as the wind begins to pick up you can reef and the boat keeps moving well.

Yes, you correct, the amount of heel affects your boat speed and your ability to point.

Anyway, have fun learning. We did.

 

[Alan]

In 12 to 17 there is absolutely no need for a reef. A very flat main with full cunningham and vang are needed. You MUST, however, learn to play the traveler in the puffs. It's the responsibility of the main trimmer to play the traveler to keep the boat on her feet and up to speed. Also the helm and main need to be talking to eachother to stay synchronized. The jib trimmer should be calling the incomming puffs and waves. Off the wind your boat has a huge main and should be used to full advantage. Ease the halyard, cunningham and outhaul for best shape.
BTW Les, the 35.5 has a standard fractional rig not a B&R. The 280 and 380 are B&R rigged.

 

[Cor280]

Thanks for the replies. My 280 does not have a Traveler which I know is not ideal for racing but for cruising with the family it is really nice to have the Main sheet on the pedestal. I will be attempting to do some Vang Sheeting in heavier air to flatten the main. Might upgrade my vang strength if mine doesn't handle the load. From what I have been reading I also think I need to use my out haul more. Since the main gives me most of my power I am trying to understand the proper way to trim it. Does the non adjustable prebend in this rig's mast change anything for main trimming?

 

[Alan]

Yes, not being able to bend the mast prevents you from making the main as flat as you need as the wind builds. Many skippers often times don't realize the price they pay for some of the 'conveniences' they gain.

 

[Cor280]

Still on this topic with another race behind me a not feeling that I was doing the best I could with the main. I went into this race thinking I was going to use the vang more to get a better sail shape but I also have a Boomkicker, which I like but I have to winch and crank the vang to get any movement out of the boom with the Kicker in place, is that ok or am I over thinking it? I crewed on a S2 for years and we always eased the topping lift and had no kicker. The Boom dropped quit a bit and that sail could get really flat if you wanted. Maybe my Kicker needs to be adjusted? I am tempted to lift the boom of the kicker after the main is up and see how the sail looks as a test.

 

[FourPoints]

I crewed on a S2 for years and we always eased the topping lift and had no kicker. The Boom dropped quit a bit and that sail could get really flat if you wanted.

The drop is because the sail is now holding up the weight of the boom, something that acually hurts sail shape in light air. Either a kicker or a rigid vang will hold the weight of the boom to allow the sail to maintain the correct shape in light air when the wind is otherwise not enough to do so.

Maybe my Kicker needs to be adjusted? I am tempted to lift the boom of the kicker after the main is up and see how the sail looks as a test.

If you cannot tighten the vang to get the sail flat because the kicker is preventing you, then it's not doing it's job correctly and needs adjusted. You should be able to fully tighten the vang until the leach is tight, the kicker is only there to support the weight of the boom so the sail (or topping lift) does not have to.