Hunter 28 Rudder Bearing Replacement

[Beck]

I have a 1990 Hunter 28, and am considering replacing the rudder bearings. The boat is on the hard, and the rudder has been removed. The rudder post rides in a rudder tube that extends from the hull to the deck. There are two bearings made from UHMW, that are fitted in the rudder tube. One bearing is at the point the rudder post exits the deck (upper bearing), and one at the point the rudder post exits the hull (lower bearing). Each bearing rests on a ledge in the rudder tube. The ledge is beneath the top bearing and above the lower bearing.
The opening in the hull at the lower bearing is smaller in diameter than the outside diameter of the lower bearing. Therefore, it appears that I will have to create a larger opening in the hull, to allow removal of the bearing. The hull is approximately 3/8" thick on this area, and I am considering installing a bearing that is 3/8" inch longer. Therefore, the new bearing will be flush with the bottom of the hull, and secured with epoxy that is applied around the perimeter of the bearing, and in any gaps between the bottom of the bearing and the hull.
My questions are as follows:
1. Can anyone who has replaced their rudder bearings offer any advice or insights?
2. Does the proposed strategy make sense or is there something I am missing?

 

[Terry Cox]

The link below describes what Hunter Marine said about our current boat model and as I recall our 1989 H28 was similar in design. The amount of play in the rudder post determines whether to replace the bearings. It may not be time yet. A small sheet of teflon inserted around the rudder post at the bearing may reduce post play and extend the life of the bearing.

It might be worthwhile to have a marine surveyor inspect the system to determine whether it is time, FWIW.

http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=45&aid=6617&mn=42

 

[Beck]

Your bring up a good point about whether or not it is really time to replace them. When they state "anything over 1/8th inch play would be considered outside of tolerance", how is that measured? Is that measured by pulling on the bottom of the rudder and measuring how much the bottom of the rudder moves, or measuring movement at the point the rudder post contacts the bearing?

 

[Terry Cox]

It would be the amount of play athwartship or side to side at the point where the post is in the bearing. Our H28 would move side to side, but our surveyor said that it was within tolerance. He then offered a solution that he had used before and that was inserting a cut piece of teflon sheet around the post at the bearing thus filling in any post play. I've never had a need to do this procedure, but it seemed plausible at the time.

 

[Beck]

Thank you for your reply. Based on the play in my rudder post, I may be able to delay this effort until later. I have minimal play, but will check out the Teflon sheet approach to eliminate all play if possible.

Thanks again,

 

[Terry Cox]

Thank you for your reply. Based on the play in my rudder post, I may be able to delay this effort until later. I have minimal play, but will check out the Teflon sheet approach to eliminate all play if possible.

Thanks again,

You are most welcome. Please let us know the outcome of your situation.

 

[kjdoyle1]

I know this is an old post, but where do you purchase these UHMW bearings?

 

[dkinzer]

where do you purchase these UHMW bearings?

If you know someone with a lathe large enough for the job, it will likely be much less expensive to make them. The O.D. of the existing bearings can be duplicated and the I.D. would be cut to suit the rudder post shaft. UHMW is very easy to machine - I made new bow rollers for my boat for about 1/3 of the cost of buying them.

I don't know what diameter would be needed but as an example a 3" diameter piece of UHMW a foot long is less than $25.00 (not including shipping) at zoro.com. You may be able to find an eBay seller with suitably sized material for even less. Short sections (called "drops") are often available for much less than the cost of a piece cut off from full-length stock.

Zoro 3" dia x 1 ft UHMW

 

[dLj]

You can find all sorts of sizes of UHMW at Mcmaster-Carr also. Not the cheapest, but great selection. Commercial grades of UHMW are not overly expensive. And indeed, very easy to machine. Good luck.

dj

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