I would to tune-up the standing rigging tension on my H28.5 (with a LOOS gauge) but have no idea what should be the correct value for the different stays. Any advice you can share? Many thanks Pedro
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C
Cliff Ruckstuhl
Pedro
I have Eddie at Hunter checking on this and he is supposed to get back to me. But check with you sailmaker. For how much bend is built into the main. This will help you set the mast bend on the main. But normal rake is about 6 inches. CLiff
I have Eddie at Hunter checking on this and he is supposed to get back to me. But check with you sailmaker. For how much bend is built into the main. This will help you set the mast bend on the main. But normal rake is about 6 inches. CLiff
K
Kevin
Good Question
I have been trying to get this information for years. I just set it up by feel/ performance. I wish the guy who races his 28.5 out of the Tidewater Va. area would weigh in on this one. Kevin
I have been trying to get this information for years. I just set it up by feel/ performance. I wish the guy who races his 28.5 out of the Tidewater Va. area would weigh in on this one. Kevin
C
Cliff Ruckstuhl
Do you remember his name
Do you remember the guys name. I remember him jumping in to some of the questions awhile back but I can't seem to find where he jumped in at. If we can find his name and where he lives I will give him a call.
Do you remember the guys name. I remember him jumping in to some of the questions awhile back but I can't seem to find where he jumped in at. If we can find his name and where he lives I will give him a call.
J
Jack
Have you tuned it on the ground
First you need to tune the mast while on the ground to get the proper pre-bend. The formula is available on this site if you don't have it. Look under the Reference Library at the bottom of the Home page. After that, you tension the stays to ensure that it is column. The leeward stays should NOT be slack while sailing. Rake is best determined by each individual boat. I can tell you that you may wish to start with no rake and if you have lee helm, rake back and if you have too much weather helm rake forward. You should should keep in a little weather helm when it puffs. The trick is to make sure that opposite stays start off at equal length. Open up the turnbuckles and start counting threads equally. It is a tediuous process I believe when I was finished all of the stays were within one thread length of its opposite stay. This includes the prebend. When I got my boat it had bad weather helm and until I got the mast on the ground and put in the pre-bend, according to the formula, and carefuuly ensured my stays were of equal length. I used the main halyard to check column etc. Now I can let go of the wheel and the boats will hold its course, in constatnt wind, for enough time for me to go below and get a drink etc. I do not have a wheel brake by the way. It is now a much more enjoyable boat to sail. Hope this helps. Most sailing books address tuning a rig. I like "Sail Power" but it is out of print I think. Loos teensions may help but since sails and other things a=have vaiables individual to the boat they would only be a starting point.
First you need to tune the mast while on the ground to get the proper pre-bend. The formula is available on this site if you don't have it. Look under the Reference Library at the bottom of the Home page. After that, you tension the stays to ensure that it is column. The leeward stays should NOT be slack while sailing. Rake is best determined by each individual boat. I can tell you that you may wish to start with no rake and if you have lee helm, rake back and if you have too much weather helm rake forward. You should should keep in a little weather helm when it puffs. The trick is to make sure that opposite stays start off at equal length. Open up the turnbuckles and start counting threads equally. It is a tediuous process I believe when I was finished all of the stays were within one thread length of its opposite stay. This includes the prebend. When I got my boat it had bad weather helm and until I got the mast on the ground and put in the pre-bend, according to the formula, and carefuuly ensured my stays were of equal length. I used the main halyard to check column etc. Now I can let go of the wheel and the boats will hold its course, in constatnt wind, for enough time for me to go below and get a drink etc. I do not have a wheel brake by the way. It is now a much more enjoyable boat to sail. Hope this helps. Most sailing books address tuning a rig. I like "Sail Power" but it is out of print I think. Loos teensions may help but since sails and other things a=have vaiables individual to the boat they would only be a starting point.
P
Pedro
K
Kevin
2nd Chance
Pedro, I also set my 28.5 rig with a Loos Gauge. I baseically have the minimun prebend, set prior to the mast being installed on the boat. Then i set fairly loose setting until the boat is in the water for about a week. At this point I check to see if the mast is straight ( side to side ) by using a tape on the main halyard and measuring the toe rail at exact spots on either side of the boat. At this point I follow the tightening order recommended by Hunter as far as lower verse upper mid etc. My first go around is to set to the tightness for the size of the wire per Loos instructions. I think it is about 10% of the maximun. I could give specific numbers but my log is in the boat and it is put away for the winter. The final numbers are based on performance in about 10 to 15 knots ( true) wind speed, which is what I sail in mostly. As I mentioned before there is a 28.5 racing out of the Tidewater Va. area. The boat name is Ulysses and it's mentioned occationally in Spin Sheet magazine.
Pedro, I also set my 28.5 rig with a Loos Gauge. I baseically have the minimun prebend, set prior to the mast being installed on the boat. Then i set fairly loose setting until the boat is in the water for about a week. At this point I check to see if the mast is straight ( side to side ) by using a tape on the main halyard and measuring the toe rail at exact spots on either side of the boat. At this point I follow the tightening order recommended by Hunter as far as lower verse upper mid etc. My first go around is to set to the tightness for the size of the wire per Loos instructions. I think it is about 10% of the maximun. I could give specific numbers but my log is in the boat and it is put away for the winter. The final numbers are based on performance in about 10 to 15 knots ( true) wind speed, which is what I sail in mostly. As I mentioned before there is a 28.5 racing out of the Tidewater Va. area. The boat name is Ulysses and it's mentioned occationally in Spin Sheet magazine.
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