Hunter 270 Cradle Dimensions

[jimfrankelly]

Have to build cradle for 2002 Hunter 270 & require dimensions, preferably in a technical drawing of the boat. The boat is in the water so cannot easily measure position of keel & hull dimensions. Does anyone have the original blueprints for this boat and/or the water ballast 260??? Thankyou

 

[soling42]

I'm pulling my trailer out from under our 260 next wknd to repaint the bottom so I can finally get it back in the water for our upcoming season. I can take some measurements from the trailer to get the angles you'll need. Here's a couple trailer images and a graphic that might help with documenting your dimensions in case you can find them somewhere else.

I believe the hull angles are the same with the exception of the 270 having an inboard diesel and a fixed keel. I can get the waterline to hull bottom dimension and you'll just add the keel depth. Either way if you weld up a basic frame and allow for at least three adjustable supports at the sling locations for a nice pad and a padded bow block you should be golden. When I have mine on blocks I like to get some support right at the stern on the hull/deck joint too. Distribute that load evenly.

Good luck, Mike

 

[Bob 04 H260]

thanks Mike, I'll be the welder on this project so any help will be much appreciated.

Bob

 

[soling42]

Hey Bob,
Actually it's still sitting in the shop on my concrete floor which is pretty close to perfect. I'll measure the width between my bunks and up from the floor in 6-8 spots with a reference from a line straight down from the bow and out from the centerline back to the stern. I'll also get measurements along the waterline but they won't be equal on each side unless I loaded the boat perfectly centered. I can't be too sure that the lifting strap locations are the same on the 260 vs 270 but I'll attach mine. I'm pretty sure they'll work just fine.

Were you figuring on bunks like a trailer or pads with screw posts like jack stands? Jack stand type would seem easier for a cradle. You have taken on quite a project either way. Good luck, Mike

 

[Bob 04 H260]

Hi Mike the plan is to use 4 screw jacks. Jim just ordered the 1 1/4" threaded rod and he has a fair bit of steel rectangular tubing, 2x3" I think. I have a good chop saw and a 225 amp. mig welder, & 350 amp stick so we should be OK. I have built a few big projects like this before and none have fallen down yet .


We have our two boats slipped about 25 ft apart so the first thing we did was measure the sling position spacing. The 270 has the forward position moved forward about 10" to account for the balance I suspect.



I think if the 4 pads are positioned near the sling points in line with the trailer bunks and most of the weight is supported on the keel it should be stable and safe.



We have two small cranes at our club that lift up to 10,000 lbs. to lift the boats on to the cradles, they are then picked up and moved around the yard with a pickup truck and a hydraulic lift trailer. Winter is coming so we need to get busy .


I hope you are back on the water soon, Bob

 

[soling42]

Bob,
Got bogged down in about 2 dozen interior projects but hope to get to your dimensions and the bottom paint next weekend. Should be a pretty straight up project if your friends boat will rest on its keel and the jack stands hold her steady.

Mike

 

[Bob 04 H260]

Hey Mike, no problem, it is getting a bit colder up here so we are starting to think about winter. I need to finish a bathroom reno before starting the cutting and welding, just getting the supplies organized at this point. It will be great to get those numbers and start this project, really appreciate you taking the time.

Jim ordered some 1 1/4" threaded rod & nuts to make the adjustable pads, and has a good bit of 2x3" tubing for the frame. The club requires all cradles to be able to fold, to save yard space in the summer, so makes the job a bit bigger.

I just bought a new Schaefer Snapfurl 700 for the boat. I will try to install it on Friday, before it gets too cold to do it, has to be done above 50* according to Schaefer. I intend to sell the CDI furler that came on the boat. I have a Johnson lever like yours but from my measurements it will not be usable with the sail I have, the Snapfurl is much bigger than the CDI.

If I replace this sail I'll install the lever at that time and have a sail made with a shorter luff. Unfortunately the sail is quite stiff so looks like it will may be around a while :cry:. I don't know how easy it is to shorten a sail, if not too expensive then that might be an option too. It will be easier to measure once the new furler is installed.

fair winds, Bob

 

[soling42]

Got my paint and will have the boat hanging from the ceiling on Saturday with any luck. Getting your dimensions will happen first thing.

Good luck with the cradle and the furler and the remodel.....hey wait it's another over achiever like me Don't over do. Lately I'm feeling like 50yrs of this endless big project stuff is catching up to me. I'll look fwd to just getting the boat back in the water next week so I can stop with the endless upgrade ideas.....it does stop doesn't it.

Stay warm, Mike

 

[soling42]

Here we go with the Hull dimensions/bottom lines for my 2004 h260:

"The qualifiers". From a point at the c/l of the stern running directly fwd to the bow as measured on a chalk line on the concrete floor following the keel line. The cross sections were checked with a plumb bob on a very consistent concrete floor and can be assumed within 1/4"+/-. There is NO allowance for the CB or a fixed keel, these are hull elevations only. The elevations outward from the keel line are typically where a trailer bunk should support the boat lengthwise. I'm posting the raw elevations just as my boat is hanging from the shop ceiling, so you can do the math that works for your need and I'll get back to paint.

With the the stern c/l (known as cross sect "A" and 55 1/2" above the floor) also being a point on the floor known as "zero inches fwd", measure fwd 44" then port and starboard 30" at rt angles(this first intersection is c/s B). The hull elevations at these outward bound points from the keel were 47 3/8" high on both sides and the keel ht is 43".

The next cross section (c/s C, also the aft lifting strap zone on a w/b 260) from the stern is at 85" fwd and out port/star 31". The outward bound elevations were 42 1/4" and the keel ht is 37 1/2".

The next cross section (c/s D, at a point immediately below the aft edge of the 2nd small side window) is at 134" fwd and out p/s 30". the elevations were 39" and the keel ht is 35".

The next cross section(c/s E, the fwd strap zone) is at 212" fwd and out p/s 20". The ht was 39". The keel ht is 35 1/4" (this is typically a bow roller point on a trailer). (Edited for data correction 10-4-10 by MKS)

The next cross section(c/s F) is at 262" fwd. the keel ht is 37 1/8"

The next cross section(c/s G, also the overall length from stern rub rail to bow rub rail) is at 363" fwd from the stern and is 88" from the floor to the underside of the rub rail directly at the bow. The water line ht slightly back from this vertical point is 51" above the floor.

Hope this helps. Here's a pic of the way the dimensions were taken. Feel free to stop by for a painting/scraping party tomorrow. I'd rather be sailing!
Mike

 

[Bob 04 H260]

thanks so much Mike, this should be just what we need. I'll post a picture of the cradle when we get it finished. If you were doing the bottom in January I would be by to give you a hand !

I like the look of your shop, I wish I had a place I could hang my boat up and do the bottom. Enjoy the time with your boat it will pay you back when you are on the water together.

I am struggling with my new Schaefer furler. It installed fine but the luff tape is too big to raise the sail. The furler specifies a #6 and the sail is a #6 but it is too big. I got it in about 2 ft but was concerned I would rip the sail trying to put any more in. I will contact them tomorrow to see what the story is. I am using the original stock Doyle jib. The luff is also too long to install the Johnson lever so if I have to have a smaller luff tape installed I will probably get the sail shortened at the same time.

thanks again, Bob

 

[soling42]

Bob,
For all the people who have asked about bottom shape on these boats(including me), I'm glad to see it posted and hope the info is saved somewhere it can be found for the next guy. Having a nice flat floor under the boat while it's in a sling is a fairly unique situation so with your encouragement I just got it done. The shop was one of my previous over the top projects that only fuels my endless big project mania. With a pile of 22" I-beams and a welder it just seemed like the thing to do. I wonder why I'm so tired

Sorry to hear about your furler issue. Start a thread on your issues. It might help the next guy or maybe with some pics somebody else could spark an idea. My continuous line Facnor furler for the new gennaker and bow sprit should be in by the weekend. Hope mine goes smoother than yours has.

We'll look for you in January with all the other Canadians. Come on down, the weather is fine and we'll get you out on the water.
Cya, Mike

 

[Bob 04 H260]

Hi Mike, I'm working on the design of the cradle and came to the offsets for the forward lifting strap location:

"The next cross section(c/s E, the fwd strap zone) is at 212" fwd and out p/s 28". The ht was 28". The keel ht is 35 1/4" (this is typically a bow roller point on a trailer)."

I think you may have repeated the 28" dimension twice by mistake, I think this number needs to bigger than the distance from keel to floor .

Thanks again you did a great job on this, Bob

 

[soling42]

Bob, You're right, but unless I can find my notes the only way to ck it would be to do it again which I might do for that one dimension tonight. My guess is that the keel ht is right and going out 28" it'll be around 5-6" of rise on each side in relation to the keel ht. The boat goes in the water tomorrow morning at which point I've gotta bow out. I've taken it off the straps and it's back on the trailer so I'll see what I can do.

By the way, immediately forward of the "F" cross section I mounted a bow support shaped like a V that is carpeted(see trailer pics above). The "F" area is dense with glass and should bear the major load instead of the forward roller at "E" which imho isn't strong enough to support all the fwd weight of the boat on the limited surface of a roller.


Mike

 

[soling42]

Bob, The boat is in the water but I got the hull contour measurements while it was on the trailer so I can only hope the previous Keel height was right. For what you need this should do it but it's nothing a torch can't fix.

From the stern forward 210" to C/S "E". Assuming the keel is zero and measuring outward p/s 20" there is 4" of rise. I'd use screw jacks for all the contact spots in case something unexpected happened. I've edited the orig data posting for the correction.

Mike

 

[Bob 04 H260]

thanks Mike, I appreciate this extra effort. I think we can do a good job with what you have given us. I will start welding next week.
I hope you get out for some sailing after all your hard work. I am still waiting for my jib to come back from the sail loft. One advantage will be that it will be short enough that I will able to add the Johnson lever. I will shorten the forestay once the boat is back on the trailer in a few weeks. I put a couple of Andersen STwinches on the boat last week, they will allow sheet trimming with one hand instead of three.
I don't think we will get our boat down south this winter after all. Sherry just signed a 12 month contract with a national charity. Our original plan was to get a slip in the Keys for a couple of months so may have to trim that down to a trip to Stuart for two weeks in March.

thanks again, Bob