I own a 1983 27ft hunter in good condition. I want to take the 120 Genoa down from the roller furling for some minor sail maintainance, but I can't figure out the rigging. I think that the roller furling is made by Cruising Design, Inc. There is no top swivel on my roller furling and no halyard attached to the sail. From looking at the set-up with binoculars, it appears that the top of the roller furling is attached to the mast with a leader line, and the sail is also. Any ideas on how to lower the sail without climbing the mast?
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Hans Erwich
Messenger
I just bought a 1984 Hunter 27 with the CDI furler. In my case, the halyard is still there, but cut short and tied at the lower end of the stay, just above the drum. To lower the sail, a "Messenger" is required, which is an extension of the halyard, to be temporarily attached during sail change operations with a sort of paperclip device. Being fortunate to live within driving distance from CDI, I did pay them a visit. They now sell a "Messenger with a plastic slider that tracks the aft sleeve on the stay. Halyard and slider cost $60.- Obviously, the attachment can be improvised by just splicing an extension to the halyard. Should the sail be tied of near the top, s you believe, then I am afraid it is time to bring out the old boatsun chair. Hans.
I just bought a 1984 Hunter 27 with the CDI furler. In my case, the halyard is still there, but cut short and tied at the lower end of the stay, just above the drum. To lower the sail, a "Messenger" is required, which is an extension of the halyard, to be temporarily attached during sail change operations with a sort of paperclip device. Being fortunate to live within driving distance from CDI, I did pay them a visit. They now sell a "Messenger with a plastic slider that tracks the aft sleeve on the stay. Halyard and slider cost $60.- Obviously, the attachment can be improvised by just splicing an extension to the halyard. Should the sail be tied of near the top, s you believe, then I am afraid it is time to bring out the old boatsun chair. Hans.
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Larry
CDI question
I have the same unit on my 25.5, the haylard is cleated off at the base of the drum. I removed the core on the last 6" of line then whipped the point where the core stops. The tail of line without the core will then easily slide in the groove. I tie a messenger line to the coreless tail and then feed it into the groove. Sometimes I spray the tail with a silicone lube and it slides smooth as glass. This advice was given to me by a tech. call to CDI. Hope this helps. Email me if you need further info. lcribbs@worldshare.net
I have the same unit on my 25.5, the haylard is cleated off at the base of the drum. I removed the core on the last 6" of line then whipped the point where the core stops. The tail of line without the core will then easily slide in the groove. I tie a messenger line to the coreless tail and then feed it into the groove. Sometimes I spray the tail with a silicone lube and it slides smooth as glass. This advice was given to me by a tech. call to CDI. Hope this helps. Email me if you need further info. lcribbs@worldshare.net
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A. J. Wortelboer
crusing design 2
I have the crusing design 2 on my 30 Hunter. The head stay track has two luff tracks and the un-used track is to send a 'car' that unlocks the top of the sail from the furling. I hook the car to a halyard and a messenger line to the bottom of the car send it to the top of the stay and the 'car' trips the lock then I pull the sail down the luff track, and use the messenger line to pull my car back down un-hook the halyard, stor the car till ready to raise the sail again. The car has a arrow to show if you want it to raise or lower the sail. When you raise the sail, the car hooks the top of the sail's slide and drags the sail to the top then exits out of the top (after the sail locks in place) and is lowered by the messenger line to be stored till the next time the sail has to come down. I hope this is clear enough to understand, the system works great once you have done it and see the way it works. good luck
I have the crusing design 2 on my 30 Hunter. The head stay track has two luff tracks and the un-used track is to send a 'car' that unlocks the top of the sail from the furling. I hook the car to a halyard and a messenger line to the bottom of the car send it to the top of the stay and the 'car' trips the lock then I pull the sail down the luff track, and use the messenger line to pull my car back down un-hook the halyard, stor the car till ready to raise the sail again. The car has a arrow to show if you want it to raise or lower the sail. When you raise the sail, the car hooks the top of the sail's slide and drags the sail to the top then exits out of the top (after the sail locks in place) and is lowered by the messenger line to be stored till the next time the sail has to come down. I hope this is clear enough to understand, the system works great once you have done it and see the way it works. good luck
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A. J. Wortelboer
crusing design 2
I have the crusing design 2 on my 30 Hunter. The head stay track has two luff tracks and the un-used track is to send a 'car' that unlocks the top of the sail from the furling. I hook the car to a halyard and a messenger line to the bottom of the car send it to the top of the stay and the 'car' trips the lock then I pull the sail down the luff track, and use the messenger line to pull my car back down un-hook the halyard, stor the car till ready to raise the sail again. The car has a arrow to show if you want it to raise or lower the sail. When you raise the sail, the car hooks the top of the sail's slide and drags the sail to the top then exits out of the top (after the sail locks in place) and is lowered by the messenger line to be stored till the next time the sail has to come down. I hope this is clear enough to understand, the system works great once you have done it and see the way it works. good luck
I have the crusing design 2 on my 30 Hunter. The head stay track has two luff tracks and the un-used track is to send a 'car' that unlocks the top of the sail from the furling. I hook the car to a halyard and a messenger line to the bottom of the car send it to the top of the stay and the 'car' trips the lock then I pull the sail down the luff track, and use the messenger line to pull my car back down un-hook the halyard, stor the car till ready to raise the sail again. The car has a arrow to show if you want it to raise or lower the sail. When you raise the sail, the car hooks the top of the sail's slide and drags the sail to the top then exits out of the top (after the sail locks in place) and is lowered by the messenger line to be stored till the next time the sail has to come down. I hope this is clear enough to understand, the system works great once you have done it and see the way it works. good luck
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A. J. Wortelboer
The "car" Identify
Scott: The car that I refered to is stainless steel about 4 inches long and fits nicely into the luff track it has two holes for attachment of either the halyard or the retrival messenger line. Look to the top of the sail and if it is a Crusing Design 2 it will have a cable that is attached to the top of the sail and looks like the other end is at the top of the mast.... that is where it locks to keep the sail from coming down after the car and halyard is stored.
Scott: The car that I refered to is stainless steel about 4 inches long and fits nicely into the luff track it has two holes for attachment of either the halyard or the retrival messenger line. Look to the top of the sail and if it is a Crusing Design 2 it will have a cable that is attached to the top of the sail and looks like the other end is at the top of the mast.... that is where it locks to keep the sail from coming down after the car and halyard is stored.
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Barry
CDI Answers
I had the same system on my H34. Hopefully you have the stainless steel messenger (car) to release the sail from the top of the extrusion tube. I was frustrated with the system and considered it dangerous. I knew I could never get that sail down in a hurry if I needed to. The second time I tried to take the sail down I ended up going up the mast (with a hammer and vise grips) CDI is still in business and they can send you most parts and manuals from Mass. I ended up converting mine to the halyard type system that ran a halyard down the second track of the extrusion. The "retrofit" kit cost $175 two years ago. They call these models REEFER I and REEFER II. I can't remember which one used the halyard. If I had it to do over I would have replace the entire unit with Profurl. I believe I saved the old parts - the messenger car and the latching parts that go up top. They are still in my boat, now shrink wrapped and covered by a 14" snow storm yesterday. If you need them e-mail me -> bolsen34@aol.com. I can get them out this weekend. Barry s/v "PER DIEM too"
I had the same system on my H34. Hopefully you have the stainless steel messenger (car) to release the sail from the top of the extrusion tube. I was frustrated with the system and considered it dangerous. I knew I could never get that sail down in a hurry if I needed to. The second time I tried to take the sail down I ended up going up the mast (with a hammer and vise grips) CDI is still in business and they can send you most parts and manuals from Mass. I ended up converting mine to the halyard type system that ran a halyard down the second track of the extrusion. The "retrofit" kit cost $175 two years ago. They call these models REEFER I and REEFER II. I can't remember which one used the halyard. If I had it to do over I would have replace the entire unit with Profurl. I believe I saved the old parts - the messenger car and the latching parts that go up top. They are still in my boat, now shrink wrapped and covered by a 14" snow storm yesterday. If you need them e-mail me -> bolsen34@aol.com. I can get them out this weekend. Barry s/v "PER DIEM too"
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Tom M.
I too have a 27, 1983, with CDI one reefer
As you look toward the masthead, is there a slightly off set sheave assy at the top of your CDI reefer, if so there is no sliding car on your aluminum track the halyard is attached to the top clew of the headsail, go's up to this sheave assy, then go's down into the 2nd (empty) track down towards the reefing reel and tied off on the above cleat, now, in most cases there is a metal clip, that you must attach a lowering line, about 1/4" dia. that when the halyard is released, this nylon line will feed itself into the same slot/track that the halyard is in, so that the sail can be brought down without loosing the halyard up the mast which is unretrievable without going up the mast or without this controling nylon line, the halyard your looking for is 1/4" yacht braid in the track, next to the track occupied by the headsail's luff. I hope this is helpfull to you.
As you look toward the masthead, is there a slightly off set sheave assy at the top of your CDI reefer, if so there is no sliding car on your aluminum track the halyard is attached to the top clew of the headsail, go's up to this sheave assy, then go's down into the 2nd (empty) track down towards the reefing reel and tied off on the above cleat, now, in most cases there is a metal clip, that you must attach a lowering line, about 1/4" dia. that when the halyard is released, this nylon line will feed itself into the same slot/track that the halyard is in, so that the sail can be brought down without loosing the halyard up the mast which is unretrievable without going up the mast or without this controling nylon line, the halyard your looking for is 1/4" yacht braid in the track, next to the track occupied by the headsail's luff. I hope this is helpfull to you.
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Hank
Rolling Furler 27 crusing design
Call Quest Sail at 888 254-7245 They should be able to help you. I have the same type system and they are making a sail for me. Good Luck
Call Quest Sail at 888 254-7245 They should be able to help you. I have the same type system and they are making a sail for me. Good Luck
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