So after replacing pretty much the entire fuel system on my boat, i couldn't get it to start, bled three times still no start. When I cranked it for a few seconds on the initial inspection (back in january) I got puffs of white smoke (unburned fuel), this time I didn't so I knew it wasn't getting fuel. Bleed and bleed some more still nothing! A quick google search came up with the suggestion of cracking the fuel line right at the injector, cranking the engine until fuel squirts out, and then trying again. I thought nahh, that can't work! It's got return lines, all the bleeding I've been doing should clear it!
So I tried it, loosen it, jam a screwdriver between the solenoid and starter, crank (took a good 15 seconds) see fuel squirt, re-tighten, turn the key (lol, key...jam screwdriver) crankcranksputterRAAAAWWWWRRRR!!! WOOHOO! run it until the bucket is empty and shut it down. Runs real nice, settles down and purrs nicely.
Now I just need to sand and paint the bottom and it can be splashed. Now I can finally get to work on the rigging and cosmetics. The PSS is installed, this was a piece of cake actually. I added the extra hose clamp on the shaft because I'm looking at this thing, thinking the only thing keeping the boat from sinking is the set screws on that stainless collar. I got room for another one, I might add another too. There is nothing about that in the instruction manual, I think there should be. I have seen people use those stainless collars too.
I also installed the vent line today, this pic was last week.
Prop install - The yard manager told me what to do here, he said put the prop on, without the key, then score the shaft, then take some lapping compound and spin the prop on the shaft for a few minutes to seat the prop, then clean it off and put the prop on with the key. If the prop is below the line you scored you have to shave the key down until it fits. The lapping compound is to make sure the taper is right, and to seat the prop on the taper. Then he said to put the big nut on the outside, which I thought was odd. I walked the yard looking at all the boats, and all the new ones had it this way, all the old shoes had it the other way. So...
Rudder is done too, just waiting for barrier coat and paint. I'll do that when I do the bottom
So I tried it, loosen it, jam a screwdriver between the solenoid and starter, crank (took a good 15 seconds) see fuel squirt, re-tighten, turn the key (lol, key...jam screwdriver) crankcranksputterRAAAAWWWWRRRR!!! WOOHOO! run it until the bucket is empty and shut it down. Runs real nice, settles down and purrs nicely.
Now I just need to sand and paint the bottom and it can be splashed. Now I can finally get to work on the rigging and cosmetics. The PSS is installed, this was a piece of cake actually. I added the extra hose clamp on the shaft because I'm looking at this thing, thinking the only thing keeping the boat from sinking is the set screws on that stainless collar. I got room for another one, I might add another too. There is nothing about that in the instruction manual, I think there should be. I have seen people use those stainless collars too.
I also installed the vent line today, this pic was last week.
Prop install - The yard manager told me what to do here, he said put the prop on, without the key, then score the shaft, then take some lapping compound and spin the prop on the shaft for a few minutes to seat the prop, then clean it off and put the prop on with the key. If the prop is below the line you scored you have to shave the key down until it fits. The lapping compound is to make sure the taper is right, and to seat the prop on the taper. Then he said to put the big nut on the outside, which I thought was odd. I walked the yard looking at all the boats, and all the new ones had it this way, all the old shoes had it the other way. So...
Rudder is done too, just waiting for barrier coat and paint. I'll do that when I do the bottom
