Ok 1st post so please be kind. I searched but have not been able to find the correct information. So I am the new owner after 34 years of a 1979 Hunter 27. I will not tell you the price but it was a amazing deal. I can fix the engine (runs but needs to be cleaned up), wiring (ex marine electrician) and restore the hull and all wood to better than new. But, when it comes to rigging this is new to me. Every single one of the running lines is either shot or full of green mildew. Does anyone know size and length? BTW the boat is a tiller not wheel.
Hunter 27 Cherubini Running Rigging
- Thread starter Canyonkeeper
- Start date
I have the same year and size. But I am a new sailor and we just bought the boat this season. So I don't know the ins and outs. Any thing I can get off of mine to help you?
Put the lines in a pillow case and wash them in a mild soap (like Woolite) in the washing machine. Let them air dry.
Once they are cleaned you can determine if they need to be replaced.
You can purchase the correct lines from this website.
Once they are cleaned you can determine if they need to be replaced.
You can purchase the correct lines from this website.
I'd say that the best bet is to remove your current running rigging and measure...then replace. Each boat can be different and what one person has on their boat might not necessarily fit on yours. But I have a 27 and can help...which lines are you wondering about?
Used Hunter Owners measuring and got the sizing on order. Unfortunately the old running rigging on my boat was very very bad. The main sheet was delaminated and the jib is three strand that is green from mold and rot. Hopefully I will not have to take the mast down to install the new ones.
Thank you everyone.
Thank you everyone.
Canyonkeeper
I remove my running rigging from my mast every winter for cleaning and storage. I use a "tracer line". It is a small reasonable strong line that I tie to the end of the halyards and when I pull the rigging out of the mast the tracer replaces the halyard. Make sure you tie the tracer securely using a rolling hitch and some tape at the end of the halyard to aid in going around the shelves at the masthead and where the line exits the mast. You could use a short length of tracer and secure the ends of the old and new halyards and pull the new thru the mast with the old. I hope this works for you and you won't have the take a trip to the masthead.
I remove my running rigging from my mast every winter for cleaning and storage. I use a "tracer line". It is a small reasonable strong line that I tie to the end of the halyards and when I pull the rigging out of the mast the tracer replaces the halyard. Make sure you tie the tracer securely using a rolling hitch and some tape at the end of the halyard to aid in going around the shelves at the masthead and where the line exits the mast. You could use a short length of tracer and secure the ends of the old and new halyards and pull the new thru the mast with the old. I hope this works for you and you won't have the take a trip to the masthead.
This is the correct answer... Jib sheets 40' per side, 1/2" for better hand feel, you can use 3/8", but harder on the hands.
Jib halyard 100' low stretch double braid 3/8" is fine and will leave you with a few extra feet, I run a snatch block on an aft cleat and can pull my jib halyard to raise jib up roller furling track while standing on the bow. This is because I single hand my 1980 27, which just got all new running rigging and blocks for all systems.
Main halyard is about same as Jib, you can go as short as 90' but I would get 100' if I were to ever redo it.
Mainsheet needs about 65 feet of 3/8" or 7/16" line, again, 1/2" has better hand feel, but you will not break the tensile strength of most 3/8" double braid is 3,800 lbs. I used all new Harken 57mm Carbo Blocks for the whole mainsheet system, 3 singles with swivel for the boom, 1 single with swivel and becket on port dog house, 1 fiddle block on starboard dog house.
Roller furling line is usually small, but you want to make sure you do not size up to more than your drum can handle. Use a low stretch less bulky line about 60' in 1/4" or even 3/16", though I do prefer 1/4" for hand feel. I used 4 Harken 29mm Carbo Blocks with soft attach loops to route the line aft and keep the deck clear.
Reef 1 line, 45' of 5/16" will get the job done. Use Harken 40mm carbo soft attach blocks if using single line reefing. For every block you add, you will need the corresponding length of line (length x2) additional.
Internal outhaul in boom will need about 45' of 3/8" and probably new blocks, I replaced mine (with Harken 40mm Carbo Blocks) and the stainless screws that held the end caps on (cheap insurance). I also did my own double braid class 1 eye splice on the Single 40mm block with becket. Still have wire from fiddle block to past bails and out through aft shive on boom end cap.
Don't have measurements for Lazy jacks yet, but it is on "The List" of things to do this winter when I unstep the mast. Hope this helps anyone that needs it.
Thank you everyone. I went with the measurement from this site (store side) and the Jib a little long and the mainsheet a pinch short but 100% usable. I went with the 3/8" braid and seems to be holding up. On a side note Tom at Cedar Creek sailing center in NJ is a amazing guy. Helped me clean my winches instead of selling me all new parts. Easily saved me $100 and now all of my winches are working 100%.