Hunter 27 (1984) - Furler Clearance Issues

[dlochner]

Let's take a simple improvement first. The line for the furler looks too big. Most furlers use 5/16" line, yours looks like ⅜" line. Reducing the line size will reduce friction on the guide blocks making furling easier.

It looks like the furler is attached to a tang that goes over the stem and is probably through bolted to a backing plate inside. If it is, changing the mounting location to the fitting on top of the deck may not be a good idea. The fitting and its mounting may not be strong enough to take the loads from the forestay. The bolts will be in tension and pulling up on the deck. The current arrangement places the tang mounting bolts in shear and the stem is a pretty strong part of the boat which allows it to withstand the load from the forestay.

Looking again at the cross bar, the welds look like factory welds, small, smooth, and polished. I'd still be hesitant to remove that part for fear of weakening the pulpit and thus the life line system.

 

[LloydB]

I don't have a roller furler yet but I have been paying attention to people who have posted about their roller furler and what kind of problems they have had as well as the best kind to get. The most common problem/ solution I recall that's been suggested has been from using too large of furling line. Splicing on a piece of smaller diameter Dyneema on to the furler line, the length of the foresail foot, may well prove an instant solution. That solution may also give you an opportunity to better align the feed to the roller drum so as to give you a better wrap.

 

[Hunter Enthusiast]

Do you see any additional options?

Yup. Move the forestay to one of the two holes behind the tack hooks. Since you have a furling system you won't need to use the tack hooks. You might need to get a couple of short link plates so the furling drum clears the two hooks.

Good day,

I really appreciate your thoughts/suggestions on this matter; thank you.

When you your refer to "short link plates", might the attached pictures be what you're referring to?

 

[Hunter Enthusiast]

Is the sail contacting the bar on the pulpit? It should not. The sail should be above the black round plastic piece of the furler base.

Good day,

I appreciate your reply/thoughts on this matter.

In answer to your question, the sail (when furled) does not touch the pulpit.

 

[Hunter Enthusiast]

I'd start with a quick check of mast rake, particularly if your rig is dropped every season.

Quick google for a H27 tuning guide didn't find much, but there was a thread on here that says 8" of rake. So see how close to this you are, or maybe someone has a better target.

Granted, based on quick napkin math... on a 34ft mast height, 8" of rake will only make ~3/16" clearance to this bar, it's still something to check. Can't believe someone "lived" with this for a long time... so checking the basics and inspecting for damage as mentioned previously are good things to check.

Good day,

I truly appreciate your insight/thoughts on this matter; thank you.

Indeed, my rig is dropped at the end of each season (and subsequently stepped every spring); given my current (i.e., limited) experience, it's very possible I do not have adequate rake. Given the fulrler tube just touches the pulpit, I don't believe it will take much to pull it back (and off the cross-member).

I'm headed down shortly to investigate this very matter (i.e., rake of mast); I'll let you know how it goes.

As for what was previously "lived with", I could write a book (but won't likely happen because I just want to get sailing)!!

Thanks so much for this; I really hope you've hit the proverbial "nail on the head".

 

[Hunter Enthusiast]

Let's take a simple improvement first. The line for the furler looks too big. Most furlers use 5/16" line, yours looks like ⅜" line. Reducing the line size will reduce friction on the guide blocks making furling easier.

It looks like the furler is attached to a tang that goes over the stem and is probably through bolted to a backing plate inside. If it is, changing the mounting location to the fitting on top of the deck may not be a good idea. The fitting and its mounting may not be strong enough to take the loads from the forestay. The bolts will be in tension and pulling up on the deck. The current arrangement places the tang mounting bolts in shear and the stem is a pretty strong part of the boat which allows it to withstand the load from the forestay.

Looking again at the cross bar, the welds look like factory welds, small, smooth, and polished. I'd still be hesitant to remove that part for fear of weakening the pulpit and thus the life line system.

Good day,

I appreciate you taking the time to provide your in-sight regarding this matter; thank you.

The tang does go over the stem (and is likely bolted to a backing plate inside); that same plate includes a tack hook and two additional points (i.e., holes) potentially, for furler drum attachment. I'll check to confirm if there's a back-plate for the deck-installed fasteners.

Regarding the fulrler line currently on the drum, you're correct in saying it's to big.

The furler manual recommends 1/4" double-braided polyester line. I've already secured new furler line but before installing it, I want to address the clearance issue.

I've attached pictures to show the difference between what is is currently on the furler drum and what should be on it.

You're likely correct in assessing the pulpit as OEM; I've been able to secure historical pictures showing the same pulpit as mine, on previous Hunters.

Thanks again; I appreciate your assistance.

 

[kloudie1]

I see from new pictures that ya can't move the attachment aft because of the hook being in the way.. It would be possible to drill a hole aft of the tang so that the furler clears with jack plates, but you'd have to make sure that you have enough adjustment room left in the furler to take up the little bit of slack from moving aft an inch or so.. In the short term, switching to a high strength halyard might make it easier to turn past the cross bar.. something like Dyneema or Amsteel would let ya go to about half the halyard diameter that ya have now.

 

[Hunter Enthusiast]

I don't have a roller furler yet but I have been paying attention to people who have posted about their roller furler and what kind of problems they have had as well as the best kind to get. The most common problem/ solution I recall that's been suggested has been from using too large of furling line. Splicing on a piece of smaller diameter Dyneema on to the furler line, the length of the foresail foot, may well prove an instant solution. That solution may also give you an opportunity to better align the feed to the roller drum so as to give you a better wrap.

Good afternoon,

I appreciate you taking time to share your thoughts on this matter; thank you.

I completely agree that improper sized furler line is a common problem; the line currently on my drum is too big. The CDI Owners Manual recommends 1/4" double braided polyester line; I've secured the proper sized line and will put it into service as soon as I can solve my clearance issue.

I've attached a picture of current line vs. recommended line (just to show how right you are).

Thanks again.

 

[Hunter Enthusiast]

I see from new pictures that ya can't move the attachment aft because of the hook being in the way.. It would be possible to drill a hole aft of the tang so that the furler clears with jack plates, but you'd have to make sure that you have enough adjustment room left in the furler to take up the little bit of slack from moving aft an inch or so.. In the short term, switching to a high strength halyard might make it easier to turn past the cross bar.. something like Dyneema or Amsteel would let ya go to about half the halyard diameter that ya have now.

That's a great idea; thank you.

I'm headed down shortly to see if adjusting my mast rake will give me the clearance required. Perhaps the combination of using a smaller halyard line couple with a slight rake adjustment will be the solution!

I'll let you know how it goes!

Thanks again.

 

[Hunter Enthusiast]

Good evening all,

I simply want to say thanks to everyone who offered their insights/advice/comments; they were all greatly appreciated.

I went down to my boat today and re-assesed all rigging tensions; using my tension guage, I added a small amount of rake to the mast. This in turn pulled the furling system away from the pulpit cross-member; I now believe the furler will operate properly.

Thanks again for all your assistance; this is great forum.

Sail safely everyone!!

 

[heritage]

That's a great idea; thank you.

I'm headed down shortly to see if adjusting my mast rake will give me the clearance required. Perhaps the combination of using a smaller halyard line couple with a slight rake adjustment will be the solution!

I'll let you know how it goes!

Thanks again.

I have the same model and year sailboat, Hunter 27 1984. Here is a pic of the bow showing the original furler (which is actually built by Harken and branded as a North Sails furler) and the original pulpit rail. I don't think there was ever a crossbar installed and obviously a structural crossbar has not been needed for 40 years of sailing. I think that your crossbar was added (probably by Hunter) as a support for the running light and it does protect the light from being damaged by impacts. Possible your boat was specced as a non-furler. I would cut off the crossbar and attach the running light to the front bar.

Since taking this photo, I have had a small plate welded onto the bar for fitting a new running light.

 

[Hunter Enthusiast]

Hi,

I really appreciate this; thank you! It's good to know people with the same boat!!

Earlier today, I went back to my boat and re-assesed all rigging tensions; after tightening my rear-stay, I had just enough clearance so that my furler system doesn't contact the cross-member. Fingers crossed, we may have solved the issue.

On another note, do you still have the Emergency Tiller for your boat? If so, whenever you get a chance, might you be able to sent a picture (or three) of it?

My boat does not have one thus I'll likely need to fabricate something.

Sail safely.

 

[Sailor Sue]

When you your refer to "short link plates", might the attached pictures be what you're referring to?
[/QUOTE]

Yes. You should be able to find them in various lengths.

 

[Hunter Enthusiast]

Thank you; I appreciate your assistance!

Enjoy your week.

 

[heritage]

This is the original emergency tiller on my 84 H27. It was stored in a tiny locker near the stern of the boat for 40 years and obviously is not usable.