Hunter 260 compression post base

[wiggyxx]

I'm trying to remove the compression post base plate due to it leaking. I removed the bolt and have been prying on it and using guitar strings to break the seal. I've been able to break the seal from the front of the plate back to around the post. I've broken 13 sets of guitars string and it seems

that I'm at a sticking point. I've continued to pull up on the plate until I hear fiberglass starting to break. I can't seem to make any further progress on the seal. I'm sure they used 3m 5200 or the equivalent from the factory. Guessing that they would never be the ones trying to remove it. Does anyone have any ideas how to remove this plate? Other than dynamite? Your suggestions are appreciated. Thank you, Clint.

 

[Kermit]

Clint,
Welcome to the forum. @Crazy Dave Condon is the resident expert on all things H260. Others here have done extensive work on their boats. Dave is a former dealer. He sold my boat to its original owner and has become a good friend to me. I have no expertise on anything related to sailing... I just spent 5 minutes trying to come up with some small area of expertise I may have. Nothing.

 

[wiggyxx]

Thank you for your reply Kermit. I'm not planning on messaging crazy Dave directly as I know he's retired from the boat dealer gig. But any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Clint
I never had to remove one. when there was a leak around the stainless steel plate, I cut out the 5200 and applied new using finger or what ever tool would work and that did the trick. I am not sure if you want to continue as that was placed into place before the floor pan was put on. I will make an inquiry and get back with you but in the future, ask first before getting into something you do not have all the answers. I fear you may have caused some major damage. I too am not sure on this one but will make an inquiry as most folks are no longer at Marlow Hunter who built the 260. Feel Free to ask me as I give back to the community as God blessed me with my buinsness.

 

[wiggyxx]

Thank you for your reply Dave. I'm just surprised that they used 5200 at the factory. Every fitting eventually leaks. I've rebedded plenty of fittings before and I have always been under the impression to properly fix a leak the fitting must come off. Im thinking that I'l clean under the plate around the bolt apply some 3m 4200 and put it back together and pray.

 

[Regular Guy]

Clint,
I will not say you should try to press M5200 under the plate and re-attach the metal base to the fiberglass again, really recommend to wait with what advise Crazy Dave's will come up.
Actually, I cannot think you would have damaged the sturdy fiberglass at that area. Maybe the plate is backed and not meant ever to be removed.
However, I can only tell you how I dealt with a leak at the compression post base on my boat. Water may have come from the top though the post or/and from down by sailing and run down under the boat's floor. I sealed the entire area with a hardening but flexible sealant from Home Depot. I pushed before backer rods into the surrounding to avoid the sealant from running down. This solution worked for me very well.

 

[dewhunter]

wiggyxx: you have a large nut on the mast support pipe. This is only accessible from underneath the boat in the keel trunk. 1 5/16" or 1 3/4 is the size if memory serves correct. To aid in reinstalling the keel pivot bracket get a piece of threaded rod the size of the bolt you removed from the top. Clean everything and reseal with 4200. Also check that the keel support hasn't flexed on a "gasket" o-ring and cut into the ballast tank. G

 

[Jackdaw]

The weakest bond in a fiberglass layup is the gelcoat adherence to the glass. Normally 5200 is stronger and will pull it off before you damage the structural glass. So maybe that's what your heard.

 

[wiggyxx]

I like your solution regular guy. It's just seemed counter intuitive to place sealant on the outside of the fitting. I'm definitely sick of my stomach. I wish I would have sought the opinion of the forum before starting this project. From the research I've done it seems as though debond marine formula is effective at removing 3m 5200. I'm still keeping my options open and open to advice.

 

[wiggyxx]

Dewhunter, are you talking about the nut under the bolt at the front of the plate? Or is there another threaded section around were the centerboard line goes through?

 

[Regular Guy]

I would like to put a couple of more pictures to clarify how the centerboard is attached and operated. There is only the vertical threaded bold going through the bottom of the hull holding the board. The bolt is pulling up and hold in place in the trunk a u-formed stainless steel bracket to which the board is attached.
The bracket has two horizontal stainless steel bolts. One is for the shave leading the operational center board line. The other is the pivot bolt for the center board.
You may discover that these bolts are rotten as in my case. To replace the horizontal bolts I went to a bold and nut store and bought long stainless steel threaded bolts of the right diameters and had them cut off head and threat in a machine shop. Also I bought a extra long threaded bolt with head to attach the bracket temporarily so, that it still was hanging out of the trunk. This way I was able properly to attach the centerboard. As attached with the pivot bolt, I supported the centerboard and bracket from underneath from coming down again and changed the vertical threaded bolt to the final one and put all back in place.

And yes, I agree it seems reverse to seal on top and not on the water side. But that's what it is, you do that around the end of the compression post and on top of the vertical threaded bolt head as well.
Hart

 

[Kermit]

Hart,
Have you posted anywhere how you got your boat up that high? Did you do it yourself or did you hire a lift?
(Sorry for the thread drift.)

 

[Regular Guy]

Hi Kermit,
I did the centerboard service together with re-painting the bottom and a motor service on the dry at a Do It Yourself marina. Had them placed the boat properly on 8 blocks, 4 each side, pairwise, to each side chained together as recommended by Crazy Dave.
The wood logs are used as support when a block had to be moved. I asked for at least 4 feet clearance under the boat.
Hart

 

[Kermit]

Thanks!

 

[dewhunter]

The bolt that you can see from the inside of the boat only holds the keel pivot support bracket in place. The compression post is held in place by a nut on the pipe the keel up-haul line is routed thru. This nut is only accessible from underneath the boat via the keel trunk after the keel pivot is removed. When you reassemble the compression post you will need to dry fit the deck post to check the depth of insertion of post into the post support to set the lock bolt. G

 

[wiggyxx]

Oh my. Well that explaines why I can't seem to budge the plate. It sounds like I need to make an appointment with the marina to get the boat lifted. Thank you dewhunter.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

DewHunter,

Old age for forgetfulness is kicking me in the butt. Lets say the centerboard housing has been removed. Are you saying then there is a nut holding that compression post plate can be seen in the top of the centerboard housing? I think you may be right but send me a personal email so I know what your are specifically saying or is it as I have described here. You are probably right as the centerboard cascade line or centerboard line runs thru that pipe and thru the hull. If that is the case, I goofed but trying to remove that entire plate out will be next to impossible given the size of the hole inside. Again it has been a long time so forgive me for asking.

Clint or Wiggyxx;
Even some of the best tend to forget but keep me posted. I have not heard back from my contact but assume you are going to lift the boat up. Make sure sir that the straps are roped together on the sides so the straps cannot become loose on the hull. By the way we are here to help you so anytime you need advice just simply ask anyone or me. God was good to me in my business and I feel I need to give back which is why I try to help others.

dave condon alias crazy dave

 

[wiggyxx]

So here's the original article I read before attempting this project. It was done on a 26 not the 260. It showed the plate removed. It did not have a threaded section on the bottom of the fitting. They must have changed that when they redesigned the 260. So instead of the two bolts behind the compression post they used a nut underneath in the centerboard cavity.

 

[wiggyxx]

My better half also found this drawing on the Internet. It doesn't mention a nut, but from the drawing it looks as though there very well might be one.

 

[wiggyxx]

I guess the article didn't upload. Here's the photo I'm referencing.