Is it possible on a 94 26 to take off the white thing under the table and drop it to the level of the seats? How do u get that thing off?
Hunter 26 table
- Thread starter jcwlbw
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It's odd
It's odd that Hunter shaped the table to perfectly match the seats, then installed a support which prevented it from dropping down that far. My guess is they had to change things mid-design and couldn't come up with a support that was strong enough yet still allowed for the drop. Ron Mehringer h-26 Hydro-Therapy
It's odd that Hunter shaped the table to perfectly match the seats, then installed a support which prevented it from dropping down that far. My guess is they had to change things mid-design and couldn't come up with a support that was strong enough yet still allowed for the drop. Ron Mehringer h-26 Hydro-Therapy
H260 Table
Ron, my guess is that the mold was made for the 270 and the 260. Because the 270 has a fixed keel the table can drop all the way down, but with the swing keel of the 260 it can't.
Ron, my guess is that the mold was made for the 270 and the 260. Because the 270 has a fixed keel the table can drop all the way down, but with the swing keel of the 260 it can't.
Table talk........again
This is a topic the archives have tons of opinions on. The thing I havn't read(and it may not even be in the manual) is why no one simply rotates the orig table 180 degrees fwd and drops it into the molded niche in the top of the back rest to make a nice, large fwd v-berth like it was designed to do. Kelli made a pad that mates to the existing one fwd and it works just perfect. The fwd berth is nice but I still prefer to sleep in the aft bunk. I usually just leave the table swung fwd in that lowered position or rotated rearward and strapped to the ceiling with a tiedown to make a huge open seating area. Maybe I'm missing something... Aloha. Michael
This is a topic the archives have tons of opinions on. The thing I havn't read(and it may not even be in the manual) is why no one simply rotates the orig table 180 degrees fwd and drops it into the molded niche in the top of the back rest to make a nice, large fwd v-berth like it was designed to do. Kelli made a pad that mates to the existing one fwd and it works just perfect. The fwd berth is nice but I still prefer to sleep in the aft bunk. I usually just leave the table swung fwd in that lowered position or rotated rearward and strapped to the ceiling with a tiedown to make a huge open seating area. Maybe I'm missing something... Aloha. Michael
That's what we do
We usually keep the table rotated 180 degrees so the aft end meets up with the v-berth. Creates more room in the cabin when you don't need to seat a bunch of people at the table. I think doing this is fairly common. Ron
We usually keep the table rotated 180 degrees so the aft end meets up with the v-berth. Creates more room in the cabin when you don't need to seat a bunch of people at the table. I think doing this is fairly common. Ron
The settee molds for the 260/270 are NOT...
... exactly the same. The 260/270 has a notch to accept the table when down (from the factory only the 270 will go all the way down) so that they are level. In the 26, the table (I am almost sure) will still overlap if the cone is removed BUT there will be a 3/4" hieght difference. I do the same as Ron and Soling42 alan
... exactly the same. The 260/270 has a notch to accept the table when down (from the factory only the 270 will go all the way down) so that they are level. In the 26, the table (I am almost sure) will still overlap if the cone is removed BUT there will be a 3/4" hieght difference. I do the same as Ron and Soling42 alan
MikeH and others
How hard is it to lift the table after you drop it? I noticed alot of people end up cutting it in half. I was hoping to avoid that if possible but it is quite a beast of a table.
How hard is it to lift the table after you drop it? I noticed alot of people end up cutting it in half. I was hoping to avoid that if possible but it is quite a beast of a table.
My Table Version
I basically removed the hardware holding the table and then cut the table into 2 sections of unequal size at the hole. The table could then be completely removed and stowed on the forward vee berth, or it could be placed on the same level as the seats. A custom made cushion made a very comfortable bed with plenty of room for two adults. When the table was removed and stored the cabin became HUGE. There are pictures in the archive.
I basically removed the hardware holding the table and then cut the table into 2 sections of unequal size at the hole. The table could then be completely removed and stowed on the forward vee berth, or it could be placed on the same level as the seats. A custom made cushion made a very comfortable bed with plenty of room for two adults. When the table was removed and stored the cabin became HUGE. There are pictures in the archive.
H26/260 Cabin Table
Great pics of the table. This approach was added to the Knowledgebase. If you have not visited the KB recently, go to this link: http://kb.sailboatowners.com/sbo/kb/brand?post=871
Great pics of the table. This approach was added to the Knowledgebase. If you have not visited the KB recently, go to this link: http://kb.sailboatowners.com/sbo/kb/brand?post=871
thanks
for the pictures and ideas. What about a gas spring mounted beside the compression post to help raise the table? McMaster-carr has one with a cabled release button that will lock in place. Would something like this work? Put a couple folding legs at the other end. The block and tackle would work too. I've seen that arrangement on an H340. I think we would leave it in the down position most of the time, but its a pretty useful as a table. Has anybody tried to get the original material for the covers?
for the pictures and ideas. What about a gas spring mounted beside the compression post to help raise the table? McMaster-carr has one with a cabled release button that will lock in place. Would something like this work? Put a couple folding legs at the other end. The block and tackle would work too. I've seen that arrangement on an H340. I think we would leave it in the down position most of the time, but its a pretty useful as a table. Has anybody tried to get the original material for the covers?
Fred
The leavesare held up with 2 1 1/4" square oak braces that pivot at the center on a bolt thru the ss post bracket. If you look closely at the folded down pic you can see the end of one of them
The leavesare held up with 2 1 1/4" square oak braces that pivot at the center on a bolt thru the ss post bracket. If you look closely at the folded down pic you can see the end of one of them
Table
Is it possible to get a picture of the underside of the table and hardware? I've been working on a similar design.
Is it possible to get a picture of the underside of the table and hardware? I've been working on a similar design.
That's very impressive, Reudi!
I'd still like to be able to drop the table down into the seat grooves, but I like your solution too. As I said before, it is hard to get my table back up when it's dropped down into the seat grooves. Maybe I need to reconsider what I've done and try to come up with something more like yours, but with the table split straight down the middle.... hmmmm...
I'd still like to be able to drop the table down into the seat grooves, but I like your solution too. As I said before, it is hard to get my table back up when it's dropped down into the seat grooves. Maybe I need to reconsider what I've done and try to come up with something more like yours, but with the table split straight down the middle.... hmmmm...
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