There must be something that I do not understand about the uphaul on the Hunter 26 stock rudder. It does not appear to me that you can be in any position on the boat and raise the rudder by pulling on the uphaul. In any position you are pulling through the pivot point. Also, is the downhaul intended to position the rudder so as to have an impact on the weather helm? Any thoughts?
Hunter 26 stock rudder
- Thread starter awoody
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H26 rudder
You're correct, you cannot raise the rudder with the attached line. You have to pull the line, stand on the ladder and manually pull the rudder up. In the down position I use the other line to pull the rudder as far forward as possible and then lock it tight with the giant wingnut. I do this is because it stays put better, in rough weather I have had the rudder start to swing out if it is not pulled in tight. That's really, really bad because at a certain point it takes all you've got to hold the tiller.
You're correct, you cannot raise the rudder with the attached line. You have to pull the line, stand on the ladder and manually pull the rudder up. In the down position I use the other line to pull the rudder as far forward as possible and then lock it tight with the giant wingnut. I do this is because it stays put better, in rough weather I have had the rudder start to swing out if it is not pulled in tight. That's really, really bad because at a certain point it takes all you've got to hold the tiller.
On the H260 I always raise and lower the rudder from outside the boat, standing on the boarding step with one foot behind the rudder. I have one arm thru a stanchion to keep me from falling in. I can still use that arm to assist with the lines.
I use a two step process for both lowering and raising.
Lowering:
1. Loosen both lines and let the rudder slip down to the floating position. Take all slack out of the lowering line.
2. Use a foot to push the rudder down while tugging up on the lowering line. It only takes a small push to start the rudder down, no reason to get your shoe wet.
Raising:
1. Loosen both lines and let the rudder rise up to the floating position. Take all slack out of the raising line.
2. Reach out as far as possible and grab the raising line near the rudder. Pull body and arm back to the boat. The rudder itself should now be close enough to grab and bring the rest of the way up.
The rudder should be down against the stop when in use. The lines are not used to adjust the position. Weather helm is trimmed best by shifting weight within the hull.
I use a two step process for both lowering and raising.
Lowering:
1. Loosen both lines and let the rudder slip down to the floating position. Take all slack out of the lowering line.
2. Use a foot to push the rudder down while tugging up on the lowering line. It only takes a small push to start the rudder down, no reason to get your shoe wet.
Raising:
1. Loosen both lines and let the rudder rise up to the floating position. Take all slack out of the raising line.
2. Reach out as far as possible and grab the raising line near the rudder. Pull body and arm back to the boat. The rudder itself should now be close enough to grab and bring the rest of the way up.
The rudder should be down against the stop when in use. The lines are not used to adjust the position. Weather helm is trimmed best by shifting weight within the hull.
Al,
You are right that the rigging is a pain. Your boat has relatively new cheek rubbers to help hold the rudder in the full down position, but in rough weather it would still creep up. Even 1 inch of creep (at the rudder tip) is enough to cause severe steering strain. I used to not only tighten the wing nut, but also tighten the pivot nut down more snuggly with a wrench to help hold the rudder in position. Of course, then you have to loosen both the pivot and the wing nut to raise the rudder.
A friend of mine screwed in a small pad eye near the tip of the rudder and looped his uphaul down through it which gave much better leverage to raise. Using a thinner high tech line would keep the drag down if you do this.
I used to raise the rudder part way with the uphaul, then hook near the tip with the boathook to fully raise. However you do it, its an adventure, but worthwhile to tuck into those peaceful shallow gunkholes.
You are right that the rigging is a pain. Your boat has relatively new cheek rubbers to help hold the rudder in the full down position, but in rough weather it would still creep up. Even 1 inch of creep (at the rudder tip) is enough to cause severe steering strain. I used to not only tighten the wing nut, but also tighten the pivot nut down more snuggly with a wrench to help hold the rudder in position. Of course, then you have to loosen both the pivot and the wing nut to raise the rudder.
A friend of mine screwed in a small pad eye near the tip of the rudder and looped his uphaul down through it which gave much better leverage to raise. Using a thinner high tech line would keep the drag down if you do this.
I used to raise the rudder part way with the uphaul, then hook near the tip with the boathook to fully raise. However you do it, its an adventure, but worthwhile to tuck into those peaceful shallow gunkholes.
It is similar to that on the 23.5.
I never manage to raise it above the surface of the water with the rope. When I'm underway, I put it around the cleat on the underside of the tiller. Even on the 23.5, if it is not set to the maximum forward position, it will get 'loaded'. It rarely slips under sail but it almost always move a bit when motoring.
This is one of those things on the whish list that 'one day I do something about it' he he
I never manage to raise it above the surface of the water with the rope. When I'm underway, I put it around the cleat on the underside of the tiller. Even on the 23.5, if it is not set to the maximum forward position, it will get 'loaded'. It rarely slips under sail but it almost always move a bit when motoring.
This is one of those things on the whish list that 'one day I do something about it' he he
Just a caution about cleating down the rudder while underway. The manual recommends against this because if you hit an underwater obstruction or bottom, it can cause damage to the rudder. Normally, the rudder is meant to pop up if it hits something. The cleat was designed only to hold the rudder in the up position. Some of the H26 and H23.5 owners have attached a quick-release cleat that releases the rudder before it is damaged.. That method is on my to-do list. Currently, I have my downhaul secured with a bungee with enough "give" to ride up if I hit something. BrianW
Can't speak for your H26 but this is the setup on my 2004 h260. The release cleat came from a company in England (I think it's called a clam cleat) and is a very simple 20min project that trips often as I challenge the shoals which are prevalent in SW Fl. The trip strength is adjustable and does and excellent job. I also will take a loose wrap on the adjacent cleat to keep it somewhat down if I'm just crossing a skinny spot and I'll reset it as soon as the depth allows.
http://www.clamcleat.com/cleats/cleat_details.asp?theid2=78
Good luck, Mike
http://www.clamcleat.com/cleats/cleat_details.asp?theid2=78
Good luck, Mike
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I have rigged up a small purchase to raise the rudder easily from the helm. If interested I can post some pics.
Let me know.
my setup
I have a quick release cleat on the downhaul, line goes down the rudder pipe to the stock block for a 2:1 purchase. I also added a small block to the up haul on the back of the rudder to make easy for anyone to lift the rudder clear of the water.
Bob
I have a quick release cleat on the downhaul, line goes down the rudder pipe to the stock block for a 2:1 purchase. I also added a small block to the up haul on the back of the rudder to make easy for anyone to lift the rudder clear of the water.
Bob
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I want to thank everyone for your comments and suggestions. This is very helpful and I learn a lot fromthe forums. For sure this sailing season I will know much more about my rudder.
It does concern me that Hunter Marine would design such a rudder. I wonder if they gave it a test drive before they decided it was what they wanted to market. With so many comments on how to fix it or replace it perhaps they should have done a recall.
It does concern me that Hunter Marine would design such a rudder. I wonder if they gave it a test drive before they decided it was what they wanted to market. With so many comments on how to fix it or replace it perhaps they should have done a recall.
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