Hunter 25 upgrades

[Steven]

Hi,I am the new owner of a 1983 Hunter 25.Need help with a few problems.1. I have the usual leak from the toerail just aft of midship both sides. Do I need to undo the entire length of rail to get under there to try to seal it?2. Anyone with experience installing a wheel on this boat, the tiller really cramps the cockpit.3. The bilge looks kind of small to install an automatic pump. Any suggestions?Thanks for your time in responding.fun days and following seas,Steve S.

 

[Jon Bastien]

Bilge pump with float switch

Hi Steven, I recently installed a float switch for the bilge pump on my '78 H25, and didn't have to drill any holes in the boat to do it. Here's how: First, I cut a peice of 1/4 inch StarBoard (Plastic material, available at most marine stores) that was approximately 2 inches by 3 inches. Then, near one of the 3-inch edges, I drilled two 5/8" holes through the StarBoard that would allow the StarBoard to mount on the pair of keel bolts just aft of the bulkhead in the main salon. THis is the same set of bolts that has the mast grounding wire attached. I used pair of stainless steel nuts to hold in place. Next, near the other 3-inch edge, I drilled holes through the StarBoard for the float switch. I used a West Marine float switch, part #543561 ($16.99), and it just barely clears the cabin sole boards. I connected all of this to a Rule 800 pump, which is situated just aft of the last pair of keel bolts. The wiring runs through the berths on the port side, then up to a 3-way (of/on/auto) switch mounted over the icebox. I tested the operation of the switch by filling my bilge with fresh water until it turned on (about 1 inch below the sole boards), and let the pump run until it shut off (about 1 inch of water over the keel). I'll post pictures of my installation, if you like. As for the other items on your list, I'm not sure about the toe rail- I think I would remove it and re-seal the entire length; If it leaks in the middle, it may be leaking elsewhere, and I'd like to put fresh sealant on the whole length (lesson learned from the rub rail on my H23). A Wheel? I think a wheel would eat more room out of the cockpit than the tiller- Especially since the space between the cockpit seats isn't really wide enough to accomodate a wheel. If I need to get the tiller out of the cockpit, I usually just raise the tiller up and tie it to the backstay.--Jon BastienH23 '2 Sheets to the Wind'H25 'Adagio'

 

[Jay Hill]

Agreed..

I think Jon is right, a wheel would take up more space than the tiller. Personally, I think a wheel on a 25 footer might look a little strange too.If you want less tiller in the cockpit, cut about 8 or 9 inches off of it. Harder to operate in a blow, but is great for anything under about 18K of wind. Plus it allows four people in the cockpit with one on the stern rail with little to no problems. (I have a H25 in a school and that's what we did.)Also agree with resealing the entire toerail. I've been fortunate, my 82 H25 is so dry, I found a cobweb in the bilge along with shiny new-looking keel bolts; and nothing else. No leaks anywhere in mine. Good luck.Bilge pump: If you fix the toerail, hatches, mast step, etc., you will probably not need a bilge pump.

 

[Leslie Thompson]

Wheel on a 25'?

My boat is a 26'5. I can't see the logistics of a wheel on a 25 or 26 foot boat. If the cockpit is crowded now, you can't believe what room you won't have with a wheel. I would suggest that you take a look at a 28' boat and see how much room the wheel takes up. Stick with your tiller, and be happy that you can feel all the tremors and responses to helm. It makes a good sailor!!