I have a new hunter 25 (no water ballast). This past weekend I had the oportunity to sail in very gusty weather. The boat speed would jump from 3.5 to 6+ and back up and down all day tryimg to stay on the same course was difficult because with every gust the boat wanted to turn into the wind. I have wheel stearing and overall effort to correct was not tremendous but my course must have looked like the proverbele drunkin sailor. The boat is set up as deliverde and the forstay is a little loose with roller furling. Could tightening the rig make a big differance? Tom T
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Mainsheet & Traveler
I can't see much of the cockpit in the stock photo of the new 25's in this forum. However, for upwind trim in building breezes, you should have the outhaul as tight as possible to flatten the main, the main halyard should be hand tight and the leach cord should just be tight enough to prevent fluttering in the leach; you then need to drop the traveler down in the gusts and bring it back up to centerline in the lulls. If no traveler; with the same flat main trim as above, you need to let out on the mainsheet in the gusts and bring it back in in the lulls. If that dosen't suffice, you are ready to tie in a reef and reduce the power in the mainsail. If the headstay / roller furler is loose and sagging you need to tighten the headstay to get the mast closer to vertical and decrease weather helm. You may experience less heel with some of the headsail rolled in and feel more in control, but it's most likely the mainsail trim that's causing you to round up.
I can't see much of the cockpit in the stock photo of the new 25's in this forum. However, for upwind trim in building breezes, you should have the outhaul as tight as possible to flatten the main, the main halyard should be hand tight and the leach cord should just be tight enough to prevent fluttering in the leach; you then need to drop the traveler down in the gusts and bring it back up to centerline in the lulls. If no traveler; with the same flat main trim as above, you need to let out on the mainsheet in the gusts and bring it back in in the lulls. If that dosen't suffice, you are ready to tie in a reef and reduce the power in the mainsail. If the headstay / roller furler is loose and sagging you need to tighten the headstay to get the mast closer to vertical and decrease weather helm. You may experience less heel with some of the headsail rolled in and feel more in control, but it's most likely the mainsail trim that's causing you to round up.
Hunter 25
I have a Hunter 25 and I use the mainsheet tackle to help pin the forestay when I rig the boat. Otherwise it is impossible to generate enough force, at least for this 60 year old body. Usually, on boats with backstays, the backstay is tightened to add bend to the mast to reduce weather helm, (which causes the boat to round up into the wind), which you are experiencing. That being said, I think your problem could be very well be sail trim too. If the boat is new your dealer should be able to help.
I have a Hunter 25 and I use the mainsheet tackle to help pin the forestay when I rig the boat. Otherwise it is impossible to generate enough force, at least for this 60 year old body. Usually, on boats with backstays, the backstay is tightened to add bend to the mast to reduce weather helm, (which causes the boat to round up into the wind), which you are experiencing. That being said, I think your problem could be very well be sail trim too. If the boat is new your dealer should be able to help.
G
George
H25 Mainsheet Trim
S. Sauer is correct. Heading up in gusts is what you want for boats of this size. The alternatives are lee helm or excessive heeling - both conditions can be dangerous. Small boat sailors learn to reef early and/or keep one hand on the mainsheet at all times in these conditions. If you have crew, it's that person's job to tend the main and release in gusts. It's a little harder when singlehanding but very dooable. To determine if your boat has been rigged properly your manual should cover this. Typically shrouds are tensioned at about 20% of breaking strength. Be sure to check with Hunter on this -- they are very responsive. Also, buy a Loos Gage and learn how to use it. More on this subject at: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/rigging/rigging.html
S. Sauer is correct. Heading up in gusts is what you want for boats of this size. The alternatives are lee helm or excessive heeling - both conditions can be dangerous. Small boat sailors learn to reef early and/or keep one hand on the mainsheet at all times in these conditions. If you have crew, it's that person's job to tend the main and release in gusts. It's a little harder when singlehanding but very dooable. To determine if your boat has been rigged properly your manual should cover this. Typically shrouds are tensioned at about 20% of breaking strength. Be sure to check with Hunter on this -- they are very responsive. Also, buy a Loos Gage and learn how to use it. More on this subject at: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/rigging/rigging.html
Hunter 25 (2005) Forestay
I understand the dealer who delivered my new boat in mid-2005 had the forestay (with furler) slightly shortened. I need a couple of turns with the winch handle to tighten the jib halyard, plus all the mainsheet force there is, in order to attach the forestay to the bow when raising the mast. (This is no bother to me - it's all mechanical advantage). If you want the forestay shortened, have it done by an expert. The 25 certainly (and thankfully) rounds up in big gusts, but I've learned to control it by reefing early and/or working the mainsheet (as has already been suggested by s. Sauer in this thread). I had a second reef put in the main for 25+ knot winds. The first (factory) reef is ideal for 18 - 25 knots. The 2005 25 doesn't have a traveller or a cunningham. The outhaul should be tightened BEFORE the wind gets up - it can always be let out when the wind dies off.
I understand the dealer who delivered my new boat in mid-2005 had the forestay (with furler) slightly shortened. I need a couple of turns with the winch handle to tighten the jib halyard, plus all the mainsheet force there is, in order to attach the forestay to the bow when raising the mast. (This is no bother to me - it's all mechanical advantage). If you want the forestay shortened, have it done by an expert. The 25 certainly (and thankfully) rounds up in big gusts, but I've learned to control it by reefing early and/or working the mainsheet (as has already been suggested by s. Sauer in this thread). I had a second reef put in the main for 25+ knot winds. The first (factory) reef is ideal for 18 - 25 knots. The 2005 25 doesn't have a traveller or a cunningham. The outhaul should be tightened BEFORE the wind gets up - it can always be let out when the wind dies off.
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