hunter 240 mounting new yamaha 9.9

[wayne24212]

Hi all,

my old motor died on the H240 and had a new yamaha 9.9 mounted.

Has anyone mounted the same motor and done a better job the this.

I am thinking of reversing the stainless mounts / put them upside down and think that will fix the angle problem discussed below and hoping someone else has put the sweat etc in to the job before i do and tell me what they did.

As i have inboard controls electric start the motor comes with a tilt. Problem is due to the tilt assemble it goes down a lot further down than the original evinrude so far that the installer had to put in a block of wood to extend the motor out to miss or just touch the bottom of the hull/transom. Not only is it ugly and wood the motor has to be trimmed up 3 pin holes (see one of the pictures) to have it square with the boat hull thus loosing some of my height when it is raised as it now drags on the water a tad.

has anyone swapped out for these new tilt 9.9 and found a nice easy solution.

thanks
Wayne

btw it is a 2001 had it since new and we have been from the great lakes to costal cruising with my family and still servicing us well.

 

[Ward H]

Just had an older Yamaha 9.9 replaced with a new Yamaha 9.9 w/ power tilt. Very nice OB. Looks like you need a matching wedge to reverse the angle so the mount is vertical.
Garelick makes a stationary bracket which might give you the spacing you need away from the transom and keep the mounting board vertical at the same time. If you remove the wedge that is.

 

[wayne24212]

thanks Ward, will look into their brackets. prefer to reverse the wedge or new bracket as you suggested than push the motor ever further away from the transom

wayne

 

[isaksp00]

I looks like if you reversed the wedge, the mount would be angled so that the outboard leg would be tilted up toward the rear. You then would not be able to tilt the engine down enough to get the prop level.

My H23 was like that, as the 23 has a reverse transom and the mount (one that can be lifted up) is parallel to the transom (that is, there was no adjustment for angle, as in some newer mounts). I did not like the fact that the thrust was not parallel to the waterline, and the outboard wasn't quite as deep as it could be. I added spacers made from PVC pipe filled with epoxy to the upper bolts to level it.

 

[Brian M H23]

I think that all you need is a square block. maybe 3" thick, not a wedge, and all your problems will go away. why he put a wedge in there I have no idea.

 

[Justin]

Hi


Just wondering how you went on with the new mount. I am looking to replace it as well and just wondering if you can pass on any hints / tips? Also did you have a long or short shaft? Was there any problems with the motor dragging when in the upright position?

 

[kenkindy1]

agreement

I think that all you need is a square block. maybe 3" thick, not a wedge, and all your problems will go away. why he put a wedge in there I have no idea.

I agree with Brian. It seems that the "wedge" is causing the motor leg to extend further forward and at an angle than it would be with just a square block.

 

[Justin]

I am a little confused. The standard bracket tilts back slightly. Are you saying to straighten the bracket to vertical? Is so will this alter the performance of the engine?

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

I think that is what they are saying to you. Mainly speaking, the motor shaft should be perpendicular to the water and what ever it takes to do that would be suggested and that includes taking the wedge with the thickest portion in the down position. I am a retired Hunter dealer who sold nearly 25% of the production line. IF you need any further help, send me an email.

crazy dave (retired)

 

[Brian M H23]

Put the motor in the fully-down position (not trimmed up).
Make / find the block that positions it correctly.
Mount it and be done.

I'm pretty sure that you just need a 3.5" block, perhaps made from pressure-treated fence post