Hunter 23' Wing Keel Trailer Dimensions

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Jan 22, 2008
272
Hunter 23 Tampa Bay
So I am going to weld or fabricate the 6 square metal posts that hold the wood rails or bunks on the trailer that keep it upright but I need some dimensions.

I guess I am looking for the distance from the top of the bunk (were 2x4's on mine) to the top of the 6 smaller square mounting tubes that are welded to the trailer frame. There are 6 on my trailer. They actuially have nuts welded to them to hold the new posts in I will make. I want to weld the new posts in or do something better than bolting them. Seems like bolts were used for adjusting the height.

Thanks,

dave
 

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Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
To the best of my knowledge, there are several H23's being trailered around between regattas in central Florida between Ft. Myers and Gainesville. I know of at least three in Sanford, my old "Raven" included. You might try googling recent regatta results to see if you can find an H23 on a trailer that's reasonably close to you, say within a two-hour drive. Ask the race committee or commodore to contact the owner to see if they'll let you come by to measure the trailer. It's been my experience that H23 owners willingly help each other to get the most out of this great little boat.

Here's a lead...the Lake Monroe Sailing Association is holding their annual Kettle Cup Regatta on Dec. 3-4 in Sanford, where I-4 crosses the St Johns River. The forecast calls for great weather and I'm pretty sure if you offered to crew someone will put you on a boat. The LMSA is a great bunch of sailors and the Kettle Cup regatta is for a very good cause (proceeds go to the Salvation Army). Good luck.

Peter
H23 "Raven"
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
Are you also adding keel guides to help center the boat when you pull it onto the trailer? It's a pain without guides, especially in a cross wind, because the bow is held in place by the bunks but the stern floats so far above the bunks that the boat drifts to one side or the other and you have a tough time getting the keel to sit on the central frame of the trailer. Keel guides are high and wide at the back of the trailer (just below the bunks at the aft bunk support) and go in and down as they go forward until they are just wider than the keel at the point where the leading edge of the keel would be when the boat is properly positioned on the trailer. They should also be high enough so that they don't foul the wings. I used galvanized steel chain-link fence rails held in place with U-bolts so I could replace them easily when they rusted but I've also seen it done with pressure-treated 2x4s. When done right, the guides are at a slight angle above horizontal when the trailer is on the ramp. The boat can be pulled straight forward and centered on the trailer by one person using a single line at the bow.

Peter
H23 "Raven"
 

MrUnix

.
Mar 24, 2010
626
Hunter 23 Gainesville, FL
I was going to run out and take a few measurements for you, but it's not only dark outside but pouring down rain thanks to the cold front coming through :neutral:

Anyway, having set up quite a few trailers for various boats, I would suggest that you don't weld the supports. Make them adjustable. You will thank yourself in the long run! Also, the best way to fit the trailer is to place it under the boat and adjust the supports accordingly. Even with measurements, they would only be valuable as an initial starting point. The cross members on your trailer (where your keel will rest) are straight, while the stock trailers were not. Additionally, mine is a 1985 model with a wing keel/centerboard, so from what I have found is that it has 3 inches less draft than the wing keel only models. Different trailers will have different measurements and welded supports only complicate that situation.

Cheers,
Brad
 

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Jan 22, 2008
272
Hunter 23 Tampa Bay
Brad,

Thanks for the effort! It has been sort of nasty hear as well. Could you take a picture or two of the supports and how they are fixed to the sleeves? Mine have/had nits welded to the with larger bolts that tightened into the support. Seems like they may slip over time. maybe there is something on the bottom that keeps the from completely sliding out. Or is it the weight of the boat tht forces them outward providing the real stoppage.

Thanks!

dave
 

MrUnix

.
Mar 24, 2010
626
Hunter 23 Gainesville, FL
Here is a photo I took with my Android this morning of the front support rod where it attaches to the trailer frame. Sounds like the same deal as yours, where there is a bolt threaded through the side to keep the rod from slipping. I also took some rough measurements.. front and rear supports are approx. 16 inches from top of mount to bottom of board, and the middle support is about 14 1/2 inches.

Keep in mind that the bunks are there basically just to keep the boat from falling over and don't really support that much weight.. the majority of the weight is supported by the keel.

Cheers,
Brad
 

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Jan 22, 2008
272
Hunter 23 Tampa Bay
Brad,

Thanks for doing this!!! It still baffles me that the bolt trick works. I will definelty check the adjustment, since if more weight is in the bunks than normal, I could have problems. Is yours a wing keel?

Thanks again,

Dave
 

MrUnix

.
Mar 24, 2010
626
Hunter 23 Gainesville, FL
Is yours a wing keel?
My H23 is an early 1985 model with a wing keel/centerboard configuration (see attachment). From my research, it has about 3" less draft than the later model wing keel only models. As for the bolt holding the supports, I have seen many trailers with this setup and it does work.. Another alternative would be to use U-bolts and a backing plate to clamp it to the frame, which is also fairly typical.

Cheers,
Brad
 

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Jun 8, 2004
10,532
-na -NA Anywhere USA
I would have recommended welding holders for the bunk supports to be adjustable. The only problem with welding them into place is in the event that they are wrong.

Well it is done. What you need to look at are the front and rear stocks or supports. if they are dippling into the boat, you will have to readjust the supports. On the middle supports, if they are not touching the hull, again you will need to raise them as there is too much pressure on the fore and aft supports.

Remember that these are to hold the boat sideways as the weight to be held is on the keel tray with the wing keel whereas on the water ballast the wieght is supported by the bunk boards and the support lengths are more critical.

You will know once the boat is back on. I would try that first and if you notice any issues, get the boat off the trailer particualy the water ballast as you do not want to destroy the integrity of the ballast tank lid attached to the hull.

crazy dave condon
 
Jan 22, 2008
272
Hunter 23 Tampa Bay
The bunks are fully adjustable as was the original trailer. No water ballast, so I am good to go.

I would have recommended welding holders for the bunk supports to be adjustable. The only problem with welding them into place is in the event that they are wrong.

Well it is done. What you need to look at are the front and rear stocks or supports. if they are dippling into the boat, you will have to readjust the supports. On the middle supports, if they are not touching the hull, again you will need to raise them as there is too much pressure on the fore and aft supports.

Remember that these are to hold the boat sideways as the weight to be held is on the keel tray with the wing keel whereas on the water ballast the wieght is supported by the bunk boards and the support lengths are more critical.

You will know once the boat is back on. I would try that first and if you notice any issues, get the boat off the trailer particualy the water ballast as you do not want to destroy the integrity of the ballast tank lid attached to the hull.

crazy dave condon
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,532
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Thanks for letting me know. I did see one trailer that was modified and the bunks were so high on the front that it was pushing into the hull. I had to fix that one.

crazy dave
 
May 9, 2010
131
Hunter 23 WIll be at a Navy base
My posts are adjustable. Another point is that mine has 2x6s that I recovered them with marine carpet. Also, check your board or whatever is under the keel. I was doing something under there one day and found the mine was plywood and totally rotten. I am kind of a new but the one thing I learned is the distances are critical especially the keel platform, that depends on the other 2 rails. Good luck.



So I am going to weld or fabricate the 6 square metal posts that hold the wood rails or bunks on the trailer that keep it upright but I need some dimensions.

I guess I am looking for the distance from the top of the bunk (were 2x4's on mine) to the top of the 6 smaller square mounting tubes that are welded to the trailer frame. There are 6 on my trailer. They actuially have nuts welded to them to hold the new posts in I will make. I want to weld the new posts in or do something better than bolting them. Seems like bolts were used for adjusting the height.

Thanks,

dave
 

MrUnix

.
Mar 24, 2010
626
Hunter 23 Gainesville, FL
Wow.. how many singles did you take off the roof before the wife yelled stop!?!? :)

Looking good..

Cheers,
Brad
 
Jan 22, 2008
272
Hunter 23 Tampa Bay
Ha! I kicked her our a long time ago! Just cleared it. When I took it off the hitch, she reeled back a bit before I realized it was a potential shingle remover. One of the main tasks for the weekend is removing the mast and moving the boat over so I can park in my driveway or maybe garage.
 
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