Mast type and spinnaker halyards
All H23 masts are fractional, not just the Kenyon. If your mast is tapered above the forestay attachment point and the main halyard exits the mast at the base and comes up, you probably have the Z-Spar mast. Many H23 masts are set up for spinnakers but you have to look closely. The exit is in the same casting for jib halyard but ABOVE the forestay. The lower edge is fluted so the halyard has a fair lead even if the head of the spinnaker is off to one side. Just check and make sure the sheave is still good. The halyrd runs down inside the mast and exits at the base just like the main halyard. You may have to add a sheave (they cost about $3 from US Spars in Gainesville, FL) and a cleat up on the mast but for less than $20 worth of hardware you are set. I don't own one but I had an asymmetrical chute on loan for a while. It was a bit of work to rig it and then to learn how to fly it but once there it was a lot of fun. I had to rig a tack line through a sheave tied to the end of a line secured in the anchor locker and sheets to the sheaves tied to the aft dockline cleats. The sheets had to LONG (at least twice the length of the boat) because to gybe the chute you have to let the working sheet run until the chute streams straight downwind, then gybe the boat and sheet in on the opposite side. The tack line allows you to control the luff tension of the sail and adjust for the point of sail (tighten as you head up). It also allows you to douse the chute from the cockpit in an emergency. Let the tack line run (you shouldn't put a stopper knot on it) so the chute streams from the halyard and sheets like a flag. Then turn so that the sail is blanketed by the main, then as it collapses, use the sheets to pull the sail in under the main while easing the halyard. Have fun! Peter H23 "Raven"
All H23 masts are fractional, not just the Kenyon. If your mast is tapered above the forestay attachment point and the main halyard exits the mast at the base and comes up, you probably have the Z-Spar mast. Many H23 masts are set up for spinnakers but you have to look closely. The exit is in the same casting for jib halyard but ABOVE the forestay. The lower edge is fluted so the halyard has a fair lead even if the head of the spinnaker is off to one side. Just check and make sure the sheave is still good. The halyrd runs down inside the mast and exits at the base just like the main halyard. You may have to add a sheave (they cost about $3 from US Spars in Gainesville, FL) and a cleat up on the mast but for less than $20 worth of hardware you are set. I don't own one but I had an asymmetrical chute on loan for a while. It was a bit of work to rig it and then to learn how to fly it but once there it was a lot of fun. I had to rig a tack line through a sheave tied to the end of a line secured in the anchor locker and sheets to the sheaves tied to the aft dockline cleats. The sheets had to LONG (at least twice the length of the boat) because to gybe the chute you have to let the working sheet run until the chute streams straight downwind, then gybe the boat and sheet in on the opposite side. The tack line allows you to control the luff tension of the sail and adjust for the point of sail (tighten as you head up). It also allows you to douse the chute from the cockpit in an emergency. Let the tack line run (you shouldn't put a stopper knot on it) so the chute streams from the halyard and sheets like a flag. Then turn so that the sail is blanketed by the main, then as it collapses, use the sheets to pull the sail in under the main while easing the halyard. Have fun! Peter H23 "Raven"